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From many cars I have worked on, very common to see caked soot in the IAC. Now I don't necessarily recommend this on this platform, but I usually spray a little carb cleaner and get that gunk out. I've had issues with idling, and this remedied nicely.
The oil on the inside of the IMT valves is normal unless they are dripping. But being coated is ok. When I change those seals, I use brake clean to clean off residue prior to installing new seals.
Good to hear ducati so you also had the hose problem?
Yup, hose and seals. No hassle doing it ,just the lower imt valve. just had to leave it partially on and put the seal from the out as it is blocked by something.
By the way, how did you know that the seals were bad? were they broken? I looked at mine today, and they were just dirty.. and a little smashed in, but still seemed to make a tight connection.
FJT had mentioned that the old/stock ones tend to leak even if they dont look broken. yellow=old seal....green= new seal.In my case I had a hissing sound on that area. pulled out the codes and from reading on here, learned that it was that. between FJT & Jag genius I may never have to see a dealers shop.
Check underneath the plastic in your engine bay...remove the 4 screws pop it off (after removing the oil cap) and you should see a hose running front to back that may have a crack in it...this was my problem but it didn't trigger any lights for a couple of months.
This was also the exact problem I was having and thanx to this forum, I saved a couple hundred $$. I wraped electrical tape around it and its fine now.
Don't overlook a leak where the ***** hose & Brake Booster hose connectors enter the manifold. To disconnet these make sure you push down on the black ring while pulling the connector. They should auto release, it's a pita if you damage them.
Just to add, if the cold start misfire only occurs in the first few mins. Try turning the key to the position where the dash lights up, press the throttle to the floor twice take foot of throttle and crank motor. It will usually start fine with this method. Until you get round to finding the leak.
Also check the IMT seals to the left (in the pic) rear of intake manifold.
Also the grey plastic check valve from the brake booster to the intake manifold. All very common sources of vacuum leaks and rough running.
I had this problem on a car I just bought. Previous owner lived miles from a Jag dealership and he didn't know anything about cars. Local guys did. $1500 worth of work without fixing problem which is why he sold it. I was baffled by problem until I logged on, this forum is the best! It was the seals. Fixed in 20 minutes.
Hello, had a same issue.
Realized that there was a plug from the closer head (V6-2003 X Type) that was loose. (Metal pressed into the aluminum head of the engine)
basicly oil was splasning from engine into the upper chamber (under the black head cover) and made its way into the hose on the right.
From there it has filled the intake with oil resedue and made it all the wat to Throttle Body.
After only cleaning the throttle body car went from barely 500rpm to 900rpm.
Still a bit shaky but cleaning made a huge difference.
Check underneath the plastic in your engine bay...remove the 4 screws pop it off (after removing the oil cap) and you should see a hose running front to back that may have a crack in it...this was my problem but it didn't trigger any lights for a couple of months.
RE: Rough idle at startup
