You may be able to check a relay somewhere, too.

 

Can you catch it in gear?

 

Also try starting it in neutral to make sure the neutral safety switch isn't your problem.

 

Just to be clear, it is a stick shift, which I think is unusual. I have tried to start it by putting the gear shift in neutral. I push the clutch in when I try. New battery. Same result. No start. I guess I'll check the fuses. I wiggled the wires, the lights are bright, they do not dim when trying to start. I think a key to its condition is that there are no numbers coming up on the odometer, just dashes, -------.

 

My latest thought. I was reading the '"Jaguar Security System". It states that the key fob "Unlocks and Deactivates the Immobiliser". Well, my key fob doesn't work, I guess the battery is dead. I'm going to get a battery for the fob, and, try to unlock the doors / deactivate the immobiliser. Could it be that simple?

 

Bummer about the battery.

I've seen dashes before though!

I just remembered, but it was a long time ago.

In my case it was a Ford Focus with a bad ECU (or whatever the computer is called.)

We had to change the ECU and then get a locksmith to program the PATS to the key, if I recall correctly.

Googling around, I see that bad ground wires to the ECU are often the culprit. Check for those.

I'm guessing that the dashes may mean that the starter relay may be OK, but the ECU may not be powering it.

The sound you hear is probably the fuel pump, but just to be sure, you might pull the fuel pump fuse to see if you still hear the sound, in which case it may be a relay that you can change out.

 

I don't think it's the fob, but rather the chip in the key.

It works with the ECU (or PCM).

You might get lucky and a locksmith might be able to program a key to the computer that would work, but more experienced folks can probably recommend other things that you should rule out first.

 

Jaggedy, where is the ECU located? I can get one from a junkyard if it comes down to that, hopefully a bad ground. I am used to fuel pumps in the gas tank, this is the first one I ever heard of in the engine compartment, I mean one that's not mechanical.

 

The fuel pump is in the gas tank, I believe.

When I was fixing the A/C I think I saw the ECU in back of the glove compartment. A whole bunch of wires anyway.

You may be able to just remove and replace relays, too, which sometimes is enough.

 

New plan. I guess I'll have it towed 80 miles to the dealer. Reprogramming the key takes 5 minutes, and, costs $250? It might take about 2 weeks, my buddy who goes that way for used cars is on vacation, thanks for all who chimed in, I'll let you know.

 

That's probably the best idea. As long as he doesn't tell you you need a brand new ECU, that is.

When I had the issue with the Ford Focus, there was an auto locksmith who drove out and did it for $75. I don't know if the X-Type and Ford share PATS electronics though.

Good luck!

Now I am back to figuring out my own engine roughness. Misfire? Vac leak? Decisions, decisions!

 

I think if you are getting dashes, it is more involved than a locksmith programming the transponder.

Have you unplugged the PCM and plugged it back in and fiddled with all those connectors back there?

When I had the Focus issue with the PCM, it went to dashes when the PCM was removed, but showed mileage when a PCM was installed, even if it wouldn't start the car because the PATS needed to be programmed...

I see ECU's on ebay for around $20, but I think you need to match the year and engine...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=jaguar+x+type+ecu

If you put one of those in and the dashes disappear, then at that point a locksmith can help.

I think. Others here may know more.

 

Jaggedy, that's a good point, I'll have to pursue that. Thanks.

 

Have you considered trying to push start it?
Any hills nearby?

 

I'm on top of a hill, it's hilly around here. No can do, the fuel pump isn't whining when I turn the key. I called a Dealer's Service Center today. The man said he doesn't think it is a security problem! They would reprogram it for me if I wanted to, but, he said a diagnosis would be better. The problem is I am 80 miles away, I don't think $125 per hour, or $125 to reprogram it is a lot, if they are successful. But, he said it could be a bad wire somewhere, or THE CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCH. He said it would shut the starter and fuel pump down! I like that, I'm gonna go after that switch.Oh, I tried the inertia switch, not tripped.

 

I am by no means an expert, but I suspect that the dashes MAY mean that it is NOT the clutch safety switch (which I don't think would cause the dashes) but rather an issue with the PCM.

Thermo may know.

If you get a chance, unscrew the glove compartment and take a look at the computers back there. Who knows? Maybe you will see something obvious.

A bit of a longshot, but I have heard of cases where the cowling on the windshield was not properly installed, and rain dripped in on the PCM. They were shot.

Good luck!

 

Jaggedy, yes, I'll check the PCM.

 

Have we checked fuse 37?
There is a reset button near the headlight controls, try
pushing that after you get the dashes in odometer.
See if it clears or displays and new info.

If you have a meter, may be worth a shot to check for good grounds.
And you can test the modules also.
Grounding issue is more likely than a bad module.

 

Just spent about 2 hours on the car. Then I ran out and checked fuse 37, and, reset the odometer. Nothing. Checked all the underhood fuses, and 92, 94, and, 67. All good. Not getting power at the clutch safety switch, so the safety switch isn't even called upon to work. I just learned that the red light by the shifter is the security light, it goes out after trying to start the car. Good. Jaguar themselves did not think it is a security issue. Everything works, lights, radio, etc. Starter not engaging AND no fuel pump whine. One weird thing, sometimes the wipers come on when you turn the key to start. My Buick did that, and, it was an ignition module, near the key barrel. All connections everywhere seem clean and tight. PCM is clean, connections tight, although when I wiggled one group of wires I did get a slight sound out of the PCM. I m at a loss.

 

OK, others have mentioned it. I am leaning toward a bad ground on the PCM. How is it grounded? It seems to be a silver box with 5 groups of wires attached to it.