I think I am making some progress! Plugged in an OBD2 scanner. Code P1638, communication between the instrument panel and PCM. I also massaged every connection and wire. There seems to be a fuel pump noise, there is some clicking from the engine compartment. One thing that CLICK CLICK CLICKS fast is a sensor located near the passenger strut, with a black and red wire attached to it. Do I need to take the instrument panel out? Is this a big job?

 

This stuff is above my pay-grade for the X-Type, but I know I have seen people discussing the PCM grounds in the forums somewhere.

You might try disconnecting all those wires to the PCM and replugging them in.

Good luck!

 

This guy shows how he pulled his computers out, cleaned them off and waterproofed them after some water got in. He mentioned that the PCM needs to be tight in there or it won't work.

 

I have observed most grounds are black and hots red on the mods.
Tho that may not be 100% thru out.
See if pins 1 and 5 have black wires, if so check them.

I would hope the display not need removed

 

Will check for black wires. Meanwhile, I have constant 12V at pin 3 and switched 12V at pin 1 on the starting relay in the underhood fuse box. Switched relays with the one next to it, nothing. I'm thinking of banging on the starter, it should start. It should start, and, still have the dashboard problem. ???

 

Seems like relay worked. Banged on starter with an 8 iron, the handle end. Nothing. Will check for power at starter. Took instrument cluster out. Both connectors clean and tight, took them off anyway, reattached. Still no digits on dash. Wiggled all connections at PCM. I plan on getting an instrument cluster at the junkyard, maybe a PCM too. I wonder if I have 2 problems, or one? Will another instrument panel with the digits working unlock the whole car, or do I need that and a starter?

 

Got a CRANK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I jumped the 3 and 5 pin on the starter relay and the starter cranked. I immediately pulled it off. I'm really excited. Next, I tried putting a similar relay in from the fuse box. There are two of them. NOTHING. I even bought a similar relay from Advance auto. NOTHING.

 

No fuel pump whine. No starter crank with a new relay. It only cranks with the 3 to 5 pin jumper. Still no numbers on odometer.

 

Pretty sure the problem is the neutral safety switch. Not sure where it is located, I took a red and blue switch out last week that was located ABOVE the clutch pedal, I think the safety switch is BELOW the clutch?????????

 

gthawk1,
What you found makes sense. From what I have in my electrical diagrams, the pinout for the relay is:
1 = input to solenoid
2 = output from solenoid
3 = connection to battery +
4 = switch in open position
5 = switch in closed position, goes through a fuse to the starter motor
So, by connecting pins 3 and 5 you have bypassed the function of the solenoid and powered the starter motor.
You could check at pin 1; put a multimeter in series to pin1 and see if there is current flowing.
Pin 2 output goes to the ECU. If this is open, you will not get current flow to the solenoid and hence no crank. It looks like your problem could be in the ECU, but it could be as simple as corroded pins on the ECU connections.

 

Yes, I think I'm on the right track, but the reason there is no current in pin 2 is because the clutch safety switch isn't working. The fuel pump is not whining either. A Jaguar Service tech said the safety switch would cut the starter and the fuel pump. I just cannot get the switch out. It looks like it is just snapped into position somehow. There doesn't seem to be a screw or a bolt....???? It is definitely the black box switch. The red and blue one is the cruise control cut-off.

 

I would think that switch works a relay somewhere, maybe in a control unit.
But I like to hear you got a crank, sounds just like my land rover, it was a BCU.
I had to jump the fuel pump and starter with jumpers to make it run.
It was fine before it sat a few months without a battery in it.

Maybe they get their control units from the same supplier.

 

Any sign of water damage on the ECU? The guy in the video opened it up and cleaned it off with alcohol. Maybe something like that would work.

Seems like you are narrowing it down.

Good luck!

 

The PCM looks clean and dry. The engine bay side does have some play, the slightest, in the T30 torx head bolt, but, that is just an attaching bolt, right? There is also the smallest drop of water there but, the hood was up for a while, and, it is raining here. I plan on replacing the safety start switch with a dealer part, or temporarily just joining the two wires if I can get it off??? That should start the car. Then, I still have an odometer problem, I will get an instrument cluster from a junkyard.???

 

Since I just replaced my 2nd one today, in the rain.
Thought I would pass on the warning.
Be careful, under the hood around the two plastic nipples on the drivers compartment end of the coolant reservoir, they break/crack easily and unknowingly.
There is 1 on each side of the tank.

Bright side for me today, leak was not critical issue, water pump or cylinder.


Funny story, crazy car, check engine light out for weeks, posed on forum and it came back on same day. Was still on the other day, wife says kid cannot take drivers test in the car because the light is on, we both look and the dam thing was out.

Maybe you should do a new post, specific to checking the module since some issues have been/will be eliminated.

 

I just realized, the wires inside the car rest ON TOP of the PCM. The wires that go through the cowl, in the engine compartment, go INTO the PCM. They could be the problem, as everyone says. The bundle is not super-tight, there is some suspicious play in it. I ordered a T30 5 point security socket online because none available around here. So, waiting about a week. And yes, I think I should start another thread. Thanks everyone.

 

Gthawk1, how are you making out? I have a 2002 x-type 2.5 standard with exactly the same issues. I bought it that way and have had no luck so far. I get 12v to clutch switch when cranking though. What gives?

 

I once had a funny issue where I put the key in and all the lights came on, but then it wouldn't crank at all.

It took about five seconds to diagnose as I had the stereo and climate control unit out of the car, since I was changing the stereo.

When I reconnected the climate control unit, everything worked fine and it cranked right up.

So make sure your climate control unit is plugged in.

 

Mind blowen. I am the new owner of this Jag so I figure gthawk1 will no longer be in the picture. No wonder the symptoms were identical except for his clutch misdiagnosis. i have a thread started from when I joined. I will be returning there.

 

You are saying you bought the car that is the topic of this thread?
Can I get a link to the new thread please.