I just recently purchased this beautiful Jaguar off of Craigslist from a older gentlemen who was looking to get a brand new car, its a 2002 Jaguar X Type 2.5L V6. I knew I was going to be spending a couple dollars getting the check engine light off. I took the car to AutoZone and had them run the codes....came back with 11 codes. Listed below. The car is a little worse on gas than it should be. Its pretty sluggish. I also noticed today that the PCV valve hose leading from the front of the manifold is barely making contact its just pushed in the hole. And its wrapped in black tape lol. If anyone has any advice on where I should start and maybe 1 thing that could make these codes throw that would be very helpful. Thank You in advance.
-P0303
-P1165
-P0420
-P1313
-P1316
-P1646
-P0037
-P0300
-P0301
-P0305
-P1000
I also have a DSC system fault on my dash with ABS light.

 

Brian, first off, welcome to the Forums. Lots of good information here and lots of good people willing to help. But, we do ask a small favor from you. Stop by the New Member Section and tell us a little bit about yourself. We pride ourselves in being a better car group and as part of this, we like to get to know one another. This will also give you a chance to meet those that make this place what it is.

As for your problem. Based on what you have stated, I would start with replacing the PCV valve and its associated hose. A lot of the codes that you are showing are related to misfiring/vacuum leaks. Once the hose is replaced, reset the ECM by disconnecting the battery momentarily and then reconnecting it and going for a drive of about 20 miles. See what codes you have at that point. This may help narrow down what is going on at that point.

You mention the ABS light and DSC lights. If you look at the code list that you posted, I think you got told bad information and the P1165 is really a C1165 code. This would then explain the ABS light which is saying that your right rear wheel speed sensor is having an issue. I would start with inspecting the wiring to make sure that is in good condition. After that, remove the sensor and look down in the hole. You should see a metal band in there with rectangular holes cut in it. If you don't see the band, that is your problem and it is most likely going to be fixed by installing a new CV shaft on that corner of the car.

Start with this and lets see what you have in the near future.

 

Possibly battery and/or cables. Incorrect voltage throws all kinds of things off.

 

I really appreciate the time you took to write such a detailed response. I am going to order the hose asap and see what I come up with next.

 

Battery has good voltage but I did not check negative ground. I will look now. Thank You

 

I second the suggestion from Thermo on the pcv and breather hose. My breather hose split about a week ago and threw a ton of codes. I thought the worst but it turned out to be a $15 hose. I would follow his advice to the letter. Vacuum leaks make our cars go crazy. By the way.....Welcome to the club!

 

Brian, one thing I forgot to mention with the battery disconnect: this is going to cause your auto down/up on all your windows to stop functioning. No problem. All you have to do is to window by window manually lower them till they are fully down and then continue to hold the button in the down position for another 3 seconds or so (some say you can hear a relay click at the 2-3 second point). Then raise the window till it is fully closed and continue to hold the button in the raise position for another 3 seconds or so (or till you hear the relay click). Repeat for the other windows. THis will restore that feature.

 

On the battery cables. Here is an easy check. Let the engine cool off over night. OPen the hood of the car and then start the motor. IMmediately turn on everything electrical that you can (headlights, dash blower, rear defroster, seat heaters; these four are your big loads). NOw, after a minute or so, put your hand near each battery cable post. Are they slightly warm to the touch or are they blistering hot (may even see where the wire looks dark brown/black). If the wire is warm, that would be normal. If it is getting really hot, that is a problem and can possibly be the source of your codes.

If you have a multimeter, this is the better check. You simply put one end on the battery lead (not on the clamp, but on the lead of the post) and then the other end on the far end of the wire (running the multimeter in parallel to the car wiring with it send to read VDC). You will see the meter read a voltage. If it is under 0.5 VDC, then that wire is good. If it is over 1.0 VDC then it is definitely bad and probably very hot right now. If the wiring is in the 0.5 - 1.0 VDC range, the wire should be replaced in the near future as it is not failed yet, but it is going to be there soon.

 

As soon as I get lunch break I will test that. Also as far as the right rear wheel goes, it seems to be cambered more than the left side. Any possible idea why. I will take a picture as soon as possible.

 

Got home took plastic cover off engine, took a quick peak at the hose, unwrapped the black tape only to find this little culprit

 

Definitely replace that and see what you have. That hose is the original style and was prone to splitting as you can see. A number of years ago they changed the design to a ribbed style which is much more robust. A cheap and easy fix. Like Thermo said, once you clear all the codes you can see what returns and go from there. That whole list you have could be years old.

Hop eit turns out to be a pretty simple and easy fix.

 

Brian, that would be a good source for what you are seeing code wise. Replace that hose and see what you have.

As for the right rear tire, it can be caused by a few things. The X-Type is prone to the bushings in the rear suspension arms wearing out. With this being said, look at the inside edge of your rear tires. Are you seeing more than normal inside edge wear or does things look pretty even across the whole tire? If things are pretty even, odds are, your top suspension arm has worn out bushings at the frame rail end and you need a new arm (best to do both sides as the other side is probably not too far behind). Take a look around the Forums and you will find where I have a recommendation on an adjustable upper arm that is not only cheaper than the factory, but appears stronger and gives you adjustability. If you are getting inside tire wear (may even notice the back end of the car wanting to "step out" on you when you give it power in long sweeping turns at low speeds; 20-30 mph like on a highway on/off ramp), then this would indicate that the lower/forward arm for the rear suspension is worn and it is causing some play in the rear suspension, leading to what you are seeing.

If you need more help, let me know. You can prove the arms good/bad by getting the wheel off of the ground and then pushing/pulling on the tire to see if you can spot any play. if you can see play, then it needs replacement. While highly unlikely, it is possible, you may need a new rear wheel bearings. But, when pushing/pulling on the rear tire, this will become obvious as you will see the tire moving while the suspension remains still.

 

Is there anyway to check shocks. Rear end is very stiff when hitting bumps and makes a noise like theyre bad.

 

They both wear on the inside. When hitting bumps i hear the rattle outside the car as well

 

Brian, if both are wearing on the inside edge, then odds are your lower/forward arms are in need of replacement. Unfortunately, this is an OEM item only. There are no aftermarket parts that I am aware of. If you do some looking on places like Jagbits.com/E-bay/etc, you can find them for a better price than what the dealership is going to have them for. Since you are in there, might as well do the upper arms too. Looking at about $300 for all 4 arms and installing them is pretty straight forward (take the weight of the car off the tire, remove 2 bolts, remove arm, install new arm, install 2 bolts, set the tire back down on the ground).

 

Jagbits has them call me at 888-524-2487 or buy them on the website there's a 10% discount by entering JAGFORUMS-10%on the checkout form to get a 10% discount.

 

Is this what im looking for?