Thanks to Thermo et al. for cluing me into the transfer case. Drained only 200 ml out of mine. Magnet had a lot of gunk on it. Used a 3/8” O.D. to 1/2” MIP push-to-connect adapter fitting & a syringe-type dispenser with a 3/8” output hose. Once 400 cc was pumped in, removed the 3/8” syringe hose from the fitting. Played Dutch boy while unscrewing adapter. Then quickly popped the magnetic plug in. Lost maybe 25 ml of gear oil. Let another 25 ml drain & screwed in the plug. Bought a brass 1/2” MIP RV water heater drain valve for $10, but figured the plug magnet needed to go back.

The differential plug in mine was rusted to the point I couldn’t get a 3/8” ratchet inserted. What to do? Recently pulled the fuel tank, knew only 3 bolts hold the differential. If you have a motorcycle jack & have the car up on jack stands, takes maybe 20 minutes. Differential is lowered a few inches to access the drain plug. Kick myself for not doing it before reinstalling the fuel tank.

Hindsight: realize it would of been a lot easier had I lowered the front of the fuel tank a few inches & simply used an 8” hole saw to make access ports to the fuel pump & sending unit assys. Making sardine can openings as seen on YouTube videos was like fingernails on a black board to me.

With the tank out, installed 2 fuel pumps because there was no <expletive deleted> way I was ever gonna pull the fuel tank again & really didn’t want to make any holes. Repurposed used parts from junkyards. Would have worked except I’d of needed to install a fuel saddle tank valve. Exceeded my self-imposed $100 budget cap. Unless you have an engineering background- don’t try this. For me, being retired, was a fun challenge (still under my budget cap & no holes).

Used POR-15 49013 patch to seal the cut out pieces back in place. Great stuff. Hole idea came to mind after a visit to a junkyard & checking out an S-Type. S-Types have two ~8” rubber plugs under the rear seat over the units. Difference between the X & S-Types is the S-Type has a flat body under the rear seat; X-Type doesn’t.

Photo is distorted. Cut-outs are round. This is the underside view. Other side is black. Made a paper template. Cutting the front part was a little difficult as there’s 2 layers of steel.
. Mr. 8” hole saw doesn’t care. Only needs a place for the mandrel bit. Once I had the 1/4” hole for the bit, removed the bit & with a short pice of 1/4” rod. Used POR-15 to coat any shiny metal.

Turns out the hole idea paid off. Why? After replacing the tank & all was well, lost fuel pressure. Hmmm, except this time, could hear the pump running (after applying 12 volts direct). WTH (heck)? Pulled the covers & the sending unit. One of the quick connect/faster disconnect hoses popped on the fuel pick up on the sending unit side of the tank. As a result, fuel was circulating inside the tank & not getting past the 2-way check valve. Be sure you hear a click when connecting fuel disconnects. The fuel pump system is actually simple & brilliant, using one pipe for supply & return along with PWM (pulse width modulation) for controlling pressure. Curse you Ford!


Last shot before reinstalling tank.

Was gonna use this, but push-to-connect adapter was easier IMHO.

Kinda worked. Took too long to fill because the o-ring seal isn’t that good. Probably suited best for turkey basting.

This sucker is short & easily holds the end of the dispenser hose & if you’re quick, you can remove it & replace the plug.