My truck latch stopped working. Fortunately I had the back seat down so was able to use the emergency release (i've got a string tied to it now). I took off the cover and sprayed some silicone and it worked fine for a few weeks. Now it's working sometimes and not working sometimes. When it works, you hear the motor when pushing the trunk release on key fob and when pushing in the button in the trunk lid. When it doesn't work, you hear nothing.

Is there an electrical connection that I can check? The motor or solenoid seems to be working fine. Anyone have a diagram of the latch/motor/solenoid/wiring connection that might help me see what to look for? Anyone have similar problems?

My car is 2002 x type 2.5 sport with 80k miles.

Thanks!

 

The early X-Type trunk latches were problematic. There is a TSB to replace the latch with a new updated latch that is so much different you have to drill 3 new holes in the mounting plate for the latch.

Unfortunately I do not have an old X-type here with the old style latch installed so I could tell you what to look for. I can say that the new style has the kidnap handle exiting the plastic trim panel on the right side facing the front. If you want to spend 10 minutes you can be sure by removing the 2 torx screws securing the plastic grab handle and then the 2 plastic screws and clips holding the latch plastic cover. Remove the latch cover and inspect the number of screws holding latch to car. 2 screws=old style, 3 screws=new style. If you have the old style, a new latch kit would be a good place to start. It is possible to have damaged wiring in the trunk hinge area from harness flex. You will still need to remove the latch trim to verify this as the connector for the latch is under the trim.

Once you have latch connector exposed the orange(O) wire gets battery voltage when the unlock button is pressed, the black(B) wire is ground at all times, the brown(N) wire is grounded when the trunk latch is latched and open circuit when the trunk latch is open.

 

is your car automatic or manual transmission?
I bet you have a 5 speed..

 

Real Tech - thanks for the great input. I'm pretty sure i've got the newer style - here's a pic of the latch. There are three screws holding it on and it looks like it used to be attached with just two.

As soon as I took the latch cover off it started working again. Any ideas of connections that would be affected by the cover? If it's from flex in the trunk hinge, how would i get to that part of the wiring?

Jimmy - it's an auto trans. Would auto v manual make a difference?

Thanks for the help.

 

That is the new style latch and you can see the original 2 holes where the factory latch was installed.

Though this is not related to your problem it may prove useful for other X-Type owners. Jaguar knew the latch was problematic early in 2002. They continued to install the problem latches at the factory until sometime in 2004. After about mid 2003 the latch plate came predrilled for both latch types but had the 2 screw latch installed at the factory. Just goes to show you how manufacturers think. They didn't want to waste the stock of the old style latches and figured that every one that remained in service without needing replacement was more money in their pocket.

Now back to your problem. The harness is in the right side hinge. You will need to remove the plastic hinge cover to access the harness. After the cover is removed being careful not to break it where the trunk strut pin goes through. You can either fold down the rear seats if you have that option and look from there or lay in the trunk while lowering the lid. You are looking for the exact point where the harness starts to fold into a V shape as the lid is lowered. Once the sharp bend area is found remove the tape from that area and see if the wires are damaged. If the wires are damaged here it is possible that just opening and closing the trunk can temporarily restore operation by forcing the damaged wires to resume contact. Repair damaged wires and try to secure the harness so that it flexes in a different area and not so sharply.

 

For manual cars, , and potentially also autos, if you coast to a stop, and switch off the engine while the car is still moving, (some stick drivers do this) - (rare in an auto) the trunk wont work.

There is a safety set up that as long as the car is moving, the trunk cannot be opened.
If you switch off the ignition while rolling, then the last thing that that computer remembers is that the car is moving, and then blocks the trunk from opening.
It is as simple as switching the ignition back on for a second (no need to start engine) and off again, then the trunk will work.