Wife is driving our 2004 XType 3.0 and called me in panic saying red light was on dash and temp gauge pegged to the Hot side. She was 2 miles from house and I had her drive it on home. I wasn’t able to get here to look at it for over an hour and by then it had cooled down. There was low coolant in the reservoir tank so I topped it off. Started the engine then looking around I see the water pump belt isn’t spinning so shut it off immediately. After inspection there is no idler pulley anymore on the tensioner arm so belt has slipped off drive wheel and pump pulley. The idler pulley on tensioner arm is simply gone!!! Pulley bearing must have failed then disintegrated.

Searched forums here here and find reference that you have to replace entire water pump belt tensioner as an assembly. But has anyone not just replaced the idler pulley only? Also I can’t see how that tensioner assembly is attached - granted I haven’t taken out battery box and air cleaner yet for clear view. How does the tensioner assembly attach? Thanks for any advice or assistance.

 

*** Edit from previous post. I took off the tensioner assembly which is only an 8mm bolt. I can remove the bolt (15mm) head that attached idler pulley to tensioner. I’m on my way to auto parts store to see if there is a replacement pulley in stock. There is a Ford part number stamped to the tensioner assembly so hoping there will be a replacement grooved idler pulley. I’m taking the assembly and belt to the store.

The idler pulley bearing does seemed to have seized and the plastic idler part melted away. I see little bits of melted plastic in engine compartment. I will update this if I do get pulley part that fits.

 

I can't comment on availability of the pulley only, except that it's not formally sold separately by Jaguar so it would require some creativity on your end to find. But if you do need to buy the whole assembly when I replaced mine recently I searched around on price and by far the best I found was a dealer selling on ebay for about ~$80 compared to ~$100 elsewhere. Still annoyingly expensive I know, but might save you a few bucks. As you noted it's an easy replacement once the battery box is out of the way.

 

I struck out trying to find just pulley. I did find that eBay seller for $81 delivered and it's on way. I'm still convinced there is a pulley that if someone had time to research could find making this about a $10-15 fix

 

The following two pulleys are identical to the original:
Gates 38025
Dayco 89145
and sell for around $50.

 

Nuline EP198 is what I used yesterday. Probably only an Aussie number. Cost me $25, but I work/ed in the industry, so got looked after.

 

NULINE EP198 is identical to the DAYCO 89145 and GATES 38025 as mentioned above as equiv (same dimensions).
OD 52
ID 17
W 15
3 groove

The NULINE packaging states "by DAYCO) and is a brand for Dayco Australia Pty Ltd.

The bearing is marked as 6203RS "NULINE" so generally this size bearing 6203RS can be easily found for a few bucks. If the idler body is still fine than pressing in a new bearing is a cheaper option.

About to go fix my '02 X-Type 2.5L V6 with a disintegrated/seized pulley.

 

darn...and time to replace the top radiator hose as the solid plastic T-piece has a fine crack.

 

I scribed a groove in that carck, and then heated the plastic up (hair drier), then applied JB weld. Left overnight to properly sure.

Hose off the car.

Used the S Type, then the elbow on that sucker had crusty shiiit around it, Bugga, so once the X was back on the road, did the same method on that thing.

That was in late 2018, and all OK just now, as I looked at both before typing this, just so I did not hex the 2 beasts.

 

JBWeld is _exactly_ what I am looking at right now as an option. I can easily get to that T junction (rigid plastic) and even use the JBWeld fibrewrap product.

and/or grooving the hairline crack, melting in some extra plastic using soldering iron tip or hot air soldering station.

 

Ya gotta luv the use of plastic in some really dumb places on these cars.

As long s it lasts the warranty period, who cares is their mentality.

Wife an I talking this afternoon, might go back to the V12 real cars, XJS, easier to live with all round.

Who needs Sat Nav, reverse parking beepers, OBD nonsense, ABS, etc etc. Might even dig out the Whale (MK X), only 4 fuses in the whole car, and not an ECU within a country mile, sweet.

 

Grant....got anything a bit older......my A60 Austin has the same 4 fuse Lucas idiot block in it.
I have the added bonus of an optional starter motor as I still have the factory crank handle (thumb breaking shoulder popper) I keep alongside the drivers seat for the odd occasion it is needed.

Yes, my dad gave me the talk.......you know the one.........never have your thumb over the crank handle and always try to pull on the upstroke.

 

Mark,

A 1954 MK VII out on the farm in one of the sheds. Daughter wants it, but with her having :ducks disease" she cannot reach the pedals, and I am NOT game enough to tell her. She will work it out I am sure.

I remember those "manual starters" well.

Our Dads had the same talk.
His was the spare for his MK IV when I was waaaaay younger.

 

Been a while but..all sorted and reporting back. Yes, it was straightforward to groove and plastic weld that bit...but...
On removing it I found internally the crack was almost the entire length...best just replace it.
The other big advantage is a new thermostat/housing/seals and new top hose.
The old thermostat fell to pieces once I removed it (although no apparent temp control issues up to this point).