What to watch out for when buying
#1
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#2
These are a little obvious but i dont know maybe they help lol
-Make sure there is no oil leaking (look under the car)
The car drives smooth (no crazy jerking or anything that could be a bad transition)
-no check engine light is on
-listen to the sound the motor makes it shouldnt be crazy
-Make sure there is no oil leaking (look under the car)
The car drives smooth (no crazy jerking or anything that could be a bad transition)
-no check engine light is on
-listen to the sound the motor makes it shouldnt be crazy
#3
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TMH, if you are going to have issues with the car, you will have problems with the transfer case (will sound like a box of rocks is strapped to the underside of the car) and you will see a message on the dash about "Cruise Control Unavailable". Both of those are fairly high dollar repairs for these cars and are the most likely things that you are going to run into.
As for the check engine light, that can be a good thing, it can be a bad thing in my book. If the car has it on, I would tell the person that you want to get the codes read (don't take their word for what codes there are). Some of the codes are pretty easy to fix and cost almost nothing to fix. Others will cost you a pretty penny to fix. With a code like P0171/P0174 (vacuum leak), this is normally fixed with installing a $3 o-ring which takes all of about 5 minutes to install. You get something like P1613 (inefficient catalytic converter), that will run you about $2000 to fix. It all depends on how your mechanical abilities are. That also gives you room to bargain the person down since you can use the "well, I am going to have to take it to a shop to get fixed...." routine. The big thing is knowing what the easy fixes are and what things you want to avoid.
As for the check engine light, that can be a good thing, it can be a bad thing in my book. If the car has it on, I would tell the person that you want to get the codes read (don't take their word for what codes there are). Some of the codes are pretty easy to fix and cost almost nothing to fix. Others will cost you a pretty penny to fix. With a code like P0171/P0174 (vacuum leak), this is normally fixed with installing a $3 o-ring which takes all of about 5 minutes to install. You get something like P1613 (inefficient catalytic converter), that will run you about $2000 to fix. It all depends on how your mechanical abilities are. That also gives you room to bargain the person down since you can use the "well, I am going to have to take it to a shop to get fixed...." routine. The big thing is knowing what the easy fixes are and what things you want to avoid.
#4
What was already stated, it should drive like a solid "new" car otherwise you'll have suspension or other issues. Sounds like a reasonable price provided it is in very solid shape. I paid $6k for my 05 2.5 manual with the same mileage in January from a new car ***********. Check the car fax for accidents. An accdient isn't a big deal but make sure it was at least a couple years ago and the average eyes don't see where it was at. Be on the lookout for rust, make sure the tires are the same size, model and have even tread wear.
Oh and remember at 100k you have some maint. to do i.e. spark plugs, I'd do the coolant and be sure to change the transfer case fluid, brake fluid, dif fluid and manual tranny fluid. Maybe $250 in parts plus wild bill's kit for the transfer case oil. Probably $600 in labor at a reasonable garage. Also, rear shocks will be short on life and the clutch is just around the corner more than likely. IMO the clutch has no decent feel to it to begin with.
For the price though, honestly, what other 02 with under 100k could you buy for $5k? A Hyundai Accent or the like?
Oh and remember at 100k you have some maint. to do i.e. spark plugs, I'd do the coolant and be sure to change the transfer case fluid, brake fluid, dif fluid and manual tranny fluid. Maybe $250 in parts plus wild bill's kit for the transfer case oil. Probably $600 in labor at a reasonable garage. Also, rear shocks will be short on life and the clutch is just around the corner more than likely. IMO the clutch has no decent feel to it to begin with.
For the price though, honestly, what other 02 with under 100k could you buy for $5k? A Hyundai Accent or the like?
#6
I picked up my '04 today. I drove an '02 and an '03 before settling on the '04.
The '02 had 88k miles on it and was likewise a manual (that was what I was looling for). On the test drive, I coasted up to the first stop with the clutch in and went to put it in 1st gear (I was going all of about 3 MPH at that point), and the syncro was toast ... it protested by grinding going into 1st.
That's all I can add to what the others have said. Sorry.
The '02 had 88k miles on it and was likewise a manual (that was what I was looling for). On the test drive, I coasted up to the first stop with the clutch in and went to put it in 1st gear (I was going all of about 3 MPH at that point), and the syncro was toast ... it protested by grinding going into 1st.
That's all I can add to what the others have said. Sorry.
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