Hi Guys,
I have been having overheating issues with my 2006 2.1l x-type for a while, It looks like someone has replaced the water pump recently before I got her, since I bought it the fans gave me issues ("Thermo" and other members provided great advice but I still have issues) despite replacing the module still had issue so I had a sparky mate (charged like he wasn't lol) by-pass and put in a temp sender unit and fan speeed controller so now the AC fan comes on as it should with AC and the main one cuts in at around 95degrees, I suspected thermostat stuck but turned out to be broken housing so I just removed it and refitted the housing.
I did a major flush of the system but this had no effect, problem I have been getting is at lights (idle) she will gradually increase temp to 115 according to the ODBCII once moving it would return to 100 and rise quickly at next stop. I now suspected radiator so I have today replaced it also, I now have what I think is a recent water pump, no thermostat, and a new radiator, running Evans waterless coolant, engine has full synthetic oil new plugs and coil packs and air filters and new radiator hoses.
from cold she takes a while to reach operating temp 90 before fan cuts in at 95, if she gets to 110 or more fan will run after killing engine until it drops back to 95, without AC on and dash temp set to high it does get hot in car so I think the heater core is good, there are no leaks and levels remains constant in tank.
from cold there is a slight missing in the engine which might be a head gasket although not proven to try to eliminate I did the unthinkable and added repair agent to coolant, I will know in morning if that has done anything but driving back from store it started to overheat again getting to 113.
I am suspecting the water pump might not be doing the best job even though it looks like a recent replacement (is there such a thing as a high flow pump replacement) also the radiator is a bit skinny, I live in Australia so we get pretty warm and bigger rads are normal here.
forgot to say the replacd radiator I pulled apart and it was pretty clean all through not one fully blocked core.

hoping for ideas as I am running out and getting frustrated, cheers in advance guys.

 

 

Thanks Jordan, I had heard of similar and double checked all earths I could find which were all in good order, it's not only the gauge that climbs but the reading on the OBDII which gets its values from the ECU maybe the gauge also does not sure? either way it is strange, all hoses get to temp and new radiator means I have clear flow there, no thermostat menas no restriction (As I understand the purpose of the thermostat is to aid the engine to get to operating temp ASAP thereby saving fuel and improving running, it has the by product of providing heated air sooner for passenger comfort although it is not a neccessary item for cooling and since I live in Australia the point is mute really).
I am suspicious of the water pump as I did not replace it personally so it could be failing but they are such a simple device so unless the impellar is worn or not solidly connected to the shaft I can't see it being the problem.
I think I might investigate changing pulley sizes to increase the flow rate of the pump though since all the ones I have seen for sale ALL have 6 vanes.
failing this I am running out of ideas, she has done 160k and is 12 years old so got to expect issues and I have been dealing with them just this one is a pain.

 

I have ordered a new thermostat and water pump from Ebay cheaper than the ones I first looked at so not so painful to the wallet $125 for both, they are due to arrive in couple of weeks so I will report back after fitting and testing is done.

 

ok well good news at last, water pump and thermostat arrived and I have just finished installing and testing and happy to report the cat is running cool once again.
Although I replaced the radiator it had previously had a small leak in core so even though it was pretty clean was no bad thing, the water pump was near new with only a little surface rust internally but what the heck peace of mind and all that, the hoses needed replacing no no whinge there.
the coolant I had luckily changed to evans waterless otherwise I might have been writing a different story.
I had thought just doing away with the broken thermostat would suffice, turns out you cannot run this car without one because without the water will not be forced to enter the block and just the top level of hot water would circulate and just get hotter and hotter, WITH the thermostat the water is forced through the housing into the block blocking off the T piece of top hose and letting the water pump do its job.
before doing this work and after I had removed the old thermostat she would gradually rise in temp and get really hot at lights 118 degrees + now she gets to 89 which is where I have set the after market fan cut in switch to come on and with outside temp of 29 to 33 degrees celcius (it is our autumn in Oz) she ran very happily at 88-95 degrees even sitting at lights for several minutes, cruising at 100kph she sits at 89 - 93.
So Thermo was absolutely correct again silly as it sounds you must have a good thermostat in these cars, I am no longer scared to take her out but I will keep a close eye on gauge and check via ODBII occassionally.
Thanks guys.

I still have the issue of the battery charge light coming on and off for no apparent reason, the alternator is new and rates are all correct, battery drop testing all good just a weird thing to happen, I never have a flat battery even after long drives with light on, well I am happy at the moment with cooling success so not going to let this light bug me.
cheers again guys your'e awesome.