X-Type "Engine System fault" & "Gearbox Fault"
#1
X-Type "Engine System fault" & "Gearbox Fault"
I recently went and financed a used 2004 Jaguar X-type 3.0 and 2 days afterwards it popped up Engine System fault and gearbox fault on the dash. It would also idle at 2000 rpm. If I try to drive it, it wont let me accelerate and the car jumps when taken out of park. I have a 12,000 mile/12 month warranty (which ever comes first) but every mechanic I would call would d*mn near hang up on me for even mentioning the name jaguar. Its parked in a lot 20 miles from my house and I have no idea what to do with it now because if I give it back I lose my down payment of 2k. There is also a long red wire hanging from under the dash in which I have no clue what it goes to. There is a black wire with it that seems to be grounded by one of the bolts on my brake pedal mount.
I am lost right now because the only other vehicle I currently have is also almost broke down and if I lose my ride I'll lose my job. Could someone please give me some tips or link me something that could help?
I am lost right now because the only other vehicle I currently have is also almost broke down and if I lose my ride I'll lose my job. Could someone please give me some tips or link me something that could help?
#2
Sorry to hear baout the issues you are having. However, with the little information you gave it will be hard for anyone to give you any meaningful help.
Before the issue was it running and shifting well? Or were there issues? If there were issues, what were they? Any lights on the dash lit up while it is running? Do you have a a code reader to scan any codes that are showing up? If so, clear the codes and start it up again and see what codes come back and then search on here for them or post them. Short of that, not much else I can suggest.
Just curious, if you just bought the car and it has a warranty, why can't you take it back to the place you bought it?
Before the issue was it running and shifting well? Or were there issues? If there were issues, what were they? Any lights on the dash lit up while it is running? Do you have a a code reader to scan any codes that are showing up? If so, clear the codes and start it up again and see what codes come back and then search on here for them or post them. Short of that, not much else I can suggest.
Just curious, if you just bought the car and it has a warranty, why can't you take it back to the place you bought it?
#3
It's most likely one of those "oh boy did we screw him" aftermarket third-party warranty company policies. Sold by salesmen as an add on and they make a hell of a commission on them. So IF there is a problem, it fall on the "warranty" company and terms and conditions of the policy to get repairs, etc. Usually a pretty hefty deductible for each incident as well.
#4
I am guessing that warranty isn't worth much. To cover a 15 year old car it is either extremely expensive or, like you mentioned, have a very high deductible to the point of being all but uesless. Sounds like a very unfortunate situation the OP is in. His problem could be relatively simple to fix or could be something very complicated and expensive. No way of knowing with the limited info provided to this point.
#5
Hi Scott, This might help or not, I managed to purchase an OBD11 reader from my local spares shop for £11 (UK). it is a simple reader that you down load a programme on to your laptop and it Bluetooth's the info across. Its so far read my engine faults perfectly and I'm able to reset the fault codes in the car. Might be a first start for not a great outlay?
Good luck with it.
Good luck with it.
#7
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#8
I recently went and financed a used 2004 Jaguar X-type...
I am lost right now because the only other vehicle I currently have is also almost broke down and if I lose my ride I'll lose my job. Could someone please give me some tips or link me something that could help?
I am lost right now because the only other vehicle I currently have is also almost broke down and if I lose my ride I'll lose my job. Could someone please give me some tips or link me something that could help?
Good luck.
#9
I recently went and financed a used 2004 Jaguar X-type 3.0 and 2 days afterwards it popped up Engine System fault and gearbox fault on the dash. It would also idle at 2000 rpm. If I try to drive it, it wont let me accelerate and the car jumps when taken out of park. I have a 12,000 mile/12 month warranty (which ever comes first) but every mechanic I would call would d*mn near hang up on me for even mentioning the name jaguar. Its parked in a lot 20 miles from my house and I have no idea what to do with it now because if I give it back I lose my down payment of 2k. There is also a long red wire hanging from under the dash in which I have no clue what it goes to. There is a black wire with it that seems to be grounded by one of the bolts on my brake pedal mount.
I am lost right now because the only other vehicle I currently have is also almost broke down and if I lose my ride I'll lose my job. Could someone please give me some tips or link me something that could help?
I am lost right now because the only other vehicle I currently have is also almost broke down and if I lose my ride I'll lose my job. Could someone please give me some tips or link me something that could help?
First-off we need to know where you are located... country? state?.. city would be be really helpful. and I HOPE that you're in California! We have pretty strong laws when it comes to going after shady licensed car dealers.
Last edited by BlownKitty; 04-05-2019 at 11:26 PM.
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Jag4 (04-12-2019)
#10
I drove the car just a little under 700 miles total since getting it. Before the faults (which started occuring 2 days after getting the car) the car drove smooth and shifted smooth. It was rainy on both days before the faults. I stay in North Carolina. At first, they started occuring while driving. The car would be driving fine and then bam, I can no longer accelerate. Its at the point now where the faults are staying on. While theyre on, putting the car into any gear causes it to jump. Driving will only let me go at the speed of the car as if I just put it in drive and Took my foot off the brake. Took it to a mechanic yesterday who ran a diagnostic test on it and cleared a few codes and replaced a vacuum hose. He called me saying the car is fine but when I went to get it (minutes from closing time) it started up fine. Drove it out of the parking lot and not even 100 yards down the road, they kicked back on again. Its now parked in a hardees parking lot because I'm literally running out of options, money, and patience. I have a foreign car mechanic in my town but I'd have to find a way to get the car to him since its over 20 miles away at the moment.
#12
#13
I drove the car just a little under 700 miles total since getting it. Before the faults (which started occuring 2 days after getting the car) the car drove smooth and shifted smooth. It was rainy on both days before the faults. I stay in North Carolina. At first, they started occuring while driving. The car would be driving fine and then bam, I can no longer accelerate. Its at the point now where the faults are staying on. While theyre on, putting the car into any gear causes it to jump. Driving will only let me go at the speed of the car as if I just put it in drive and Took my foot off the brake. Took it to a mechanic yesterday who ran a diagnostic test on it and cleared a few codes and replaced a vacuum hose. He called me saying the car is fine but when I went to get it (minutes from closing time) it started up fine. Drove it out of the parking lot and not even 100 yards down the road, they kicked back on again
Sorry for the troubles but something fishy about the whole thing.
#14
'sorry for the late reply Scott,
The first thing we need is the codes that are triggering the CEL/MIL (Check EngineLight). You can buy a basic scanner/code reader at Autozone for $60, or if there's an Autozone or O'Reilly's close to where the car is (Hardee's) they'll scan for the codes for free. Until we know what the codes are; we're guessing. I don't mean to chide you about taking the the car to a mechanic who I suspect charged you more than $60.00 to correct the problem.
As I said before; "Tons of good advice available from good people that will try to help you Scott" .
The knowledge base on this forum is staggering, and I can pretty much guarantee you that whatever is ailing your X-Type; someone else has had the same experience with theirs.
The first thing we need is the codes that are triggering the CEL/MIL (Check EngineLight). You can buy a basic scanner/code reader at Autozone for $60, or if there's an Autozone or O'Reilly's close to where the car is (Hardee's) they'll scan for the codes for free. Until we know what the codes are; we're guessing. I don't mean to chide you about taking the the car to a mechanic who I suspect charged you more than $60.00 to correct the problem.
As I said before; "Tons of good advice available from good people that will try to help you Scott" .
The knowledge base on this forum is staggering, and I can pretty much guarantee you that whatever is ailing your X-Type; someone else has had the same experience with theirs.
#15
Happened again
Mechanic called me today again saying it was fixed and that he test drove it to ensure it was still working fine. He said he fixed a wire that was working it self loose from the throttle position sensor. I actually drove it about 25 miles back to my home town and it was running fine. I noticed that it was leaking antifreeze so I went to go take care of that at autozone and before I pulled up the alarms kicked back on. I had them connect the scanner to it and it read the following codes:
Code P1000
Code P2135
P2135 refers to the throttle position sensor and accelerator position sytem. He said those arent aligning properly and are being used out of sync with each other. Hes saying i might need to see a dealership about it. I dont have an actual jaquar dealership in my area so could I just take it to a ford dealership?
Code P1000
Code P2135
P2135 refers to the throttle position sensor and accelerator position sytem. He said those arent aligning properly and are being used out of sync with each other. Hes saying i might need to see a dealership about it. I dont have an actual jaquar dealership in my area so could I just take it to a ford dealership?
'sorry for the late reply Scott,
The first thing we need is the codes that are triggering the CEL/MIL (Check EngineLight). You can buy a basic scanner/code reader at Autozone for $60, or if there's an Autozone or O'Reilly's close to where the car is (Hardee's) they'll scan for the codes for free. Until we know what the codes are; we're guessing. I don't mean to chide you about taking the the car to a mechanic who I suspect charged you more than $60.00 to correct the problem.
As I said before; "Tons of good advice available from good people that will try to help you Scott" .
The knowledge base on this forum is staggering, and I can pretty much guarantee you that whatever is ailing your X-Type; someone else has had the same experience with theirs.
The first thing we need is the codes that are triggering the CEL/MIL (Check EngineLight). You can buy a basic scanner/code reader at Autozone for $60, or if there's an Autozone or O'Reilly's close to where the car is (Hardee's) they'll scan for the codes for free. Until we know what the codes are; we're guessing. I don't mean to chide you about taking the the car to a mechanic who I suspect charged you more than $60.00 to correct the problem.
As I said before; "Tons of good advice available from good people that will try to help you Scott" .
The knowledge base on this forum is staggering, and I can pretty much guarantee you that whatever is ailing your X-Type; someone else has had the same experience with theirs.
#16
Scott, did they codes they read current or were they stored from before? When you say "the alarms kicked back on" what are you referring to? An engine light? Something else?
Can't you take it back to the mechanic that "fixed" it? If he diagnosed (and fixed it) throttle position sensor he would be familiar with it.
Where is the coolant leak coming from? Can you tell? Two common areas are the expansion tank cracking or by the water pump, which would mean it is on its way out and should be replaced.
Can't you take it back to the mechanic that "fixed" it? If he diagnosed (and fixed it) throttle position sensor he would be familiar with it.
Where is the coolant leak coming from? Can you tell? Two common areas are the expansion tank cracking or by the water pump, which would mean it is on its way out and should be replaced.
#18
Mechanic called me today again saying it was fixed and that he test drove it to ensure it was still working fine. He said he fixed a wire that was working it self loose from the throttle position sensor. I actually drove it about 25 miles back to my home town and it was running fine. I noticed that it was leaking antifreeze so I went to go take care of that at autozone and before I pulled up the alarms kicked back on. I had them connect the scanner to it and it read the following codes:
Code P1000
Code P2135
P2135 refers to the throttle position sensor and accelerator position sytem. He said those arent aligning properly and are being used out of sync with each other. Hes saying i might need to see a dealership about it. I dont have an actual jaquar dealership in my area so could I just take it to a ford dealership?
Code P1000
Code P2135
P2135 refers to the throttle position sensor and accelerator position sytem. He said those arent aligning properly and are being used out of sync with each other. Hes saying i might need to see a dealership about it. I dont have an actual jaquar dealership in my area so could I just take it to a ford dealership?
#19
Hey Scott, my car is having the same issue right now. Did you end up finding out what the problem was? I am having issues exactly as you've described. When the engine is off but the key is in the "on" position, I can hear the throttle body butterfly opening and closing.. but abruptly, the car throws up the red and orange pill "gearbox fault" "cruise not available" "engine system fault" and no faster than a crawl, with the RPM's staying at a solid 2k. Everything was perfectly fine before--- this has happened in the passed, usually I just shut the car off, turn it back on, and it'd be fine. Any help please will be greatly appreciated.
thank you for your help and support.