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X Type Spinning Wheel Stud Advice

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Old 07-07-2014, 07:52 AM
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Default X Type Spinning Wheel Stud Advice

Hello All, I have a 2002 x type 2.5 sport which I really love. Have an issue with a spinning wheel stud. It was spinning with the lug nut still attached. I was able to get the nut removed with PB blaster, a vise grip on the back of the stud and some brute force. I got lucky I think.

My question now is, what is the best way to replace the stud? can it be done without removing the wheel assembly? If I remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor will that give me enough access to remove it?

I am a below average home mechanic to be honest. Thank you all for your suggestions.
 
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Old 07-07-2014, 06:37 PM
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Yes, you can replace wheel studs without removing the hub assembly. I've done it on the front and rear wheels because of galled/seized studs. I don't recall any special tricks or issues with this job. I believe I just used a large hammer to drive out the old stud and a conventional (non-hooded) lug nut installed backwards (i.e., with the tapered side facing out) over a washer to pull the new stud into the hub flange. You may have to rotate the hub to a particular position to allow for enough clearance behind the hub to remove/install the stud.

I bought replacement wheel studs and hooded lug nuts for a Lincoln LS at NAPA Auto Parts. The studs are a little bit longer than the original Jag studs, but work just fine. The hood (stainless cover) on the lug nuts are shaped slightly differently but are otherwise identical. I also applied anti-seize on the studs to prevent future seizing. Some folks will the studs should remain dry, but I was getting tired of changing seized/galled studs.
 
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Old 07-08-2014, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by MarkC
Yes, you can replace wheel studs without removing the hub assembly. I've done it on the front and rear wheels because of galled/seized studs. I don't recall any special tricks or issues with this job. I believe I just used a large hammer to drive out the old stud and a conventional (non-hooded) lug nut installed backwards (i.e., with the tapered side facing out) over a washer to pull the new stud into the hub flange. You may have to rotate the hub to a particular position to allow for enough clearance behind the hub to remove/install the stud.

I bought replacement wheel studs and hooded lug nuts for a Lincoln LS at NAPA Auto Parts. The studs are a little bit longer than the original Jag studs, but work just fine. The hood (stainless cover) on the lug nuts are shaped slightly differently but are otherwise identical. I also applied anti-seize on the studs to prevent future seizing. Some folks will the studs should remain dry, but I was getting tired of changing seized/galled studs.
I'm with you on the use of anti-seize. I use it on all studs and on the back of the wheels wheels where they contact the hub. The first time I removed the wheels on the X-Type the right front wheel was seized to the hub. It took me about 3 hours to work it loose. Since using anti-seize I've never had a problem. I use it on my XK8 too. Also nobody touches my wheels with any power tools only a manual torque wrench to tighten them.
 
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:43 AM
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I wanted to thank you for the help with this. Replaced the stud without much trouble at all. Sure beats the $850 that Jaguar wanted to charge me.
 
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