X Type Spinning Wheel Stud Advice
#1
X Type Spinning Wheel Stud Advice
Hello All, I have a 2002 x type 2.5 sport which I really love. Have an issue with a spinning wheel stud. It was spinning with the lug nut still attached. I was able to get the nut removed with PB blaster, a vise grip on the back of the stud and some brute force. I got lucky I think.
My question now is, what is the best way to replace the stud? can it be done without removing the wheel assembly? If I remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor will that give me enough access to remove it?
I am a below average home mechanic to be honest. Thank you all for your suggestions.
My question now is, what is the best way to replace the stud? can it be done without removing the wheel assembly? If I remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor will that give me enough access to remove it?
I am a below average home mechanic to be honest. Thank you all for your suggestions.
#2
Yes, you can replace wheel studs without removing the hub assembly. I've done it on the front and rear wheels because of galled/seized studs. I don't recall any special tricks or issues with this job. I believe I just used a large hammer to drive out the old stud and a conventional (non-hooded) lug nut installed backwards (i.e., with the tapered side facing out) over a washer to pull the new stud into the hub flange. You may have to rotate the hub to a particular position to allow for enough clearance behind the hub to remove/install the stud.
I bought replacement wheel studs and hooded lug nuts for a Lincoln LS at NAPA Auto Parts. The studs are a little bit longer than the original Jag studs, but work just fine. The hood (stainless cover) on the lug nuts are shaped slightly differently but are otherwise identical. I also applied anti-seize on the studs to prevent future seizing. Some folks will the studs should remain dry, but I was getting tired of changing seized/galled studs.
I bought replacement wheel studs and hooded lug nuts for a Lincoln LS at NAPA Auto Parts. The studs are a little bit longer than the original Jag studs, but work just fine. The hood (stainless cover) on the lug nuts are shaped slightly differently but are otherwise identical. I also applied anti-seize on the studs to prevent future seizing. Some folks will the studs should remain dry, but I was getting tired of changing seized/galled studs.
#3
Yes, you can replace wheel studs without removing the hub assembly. I've done it on the front and rear wheels because of galled/seized studs. I don't recall any special tricks or issues with this job. I believe I just used a large hammer to drive out the old stud and a conventional (non-hooded) lug nut installed backwards (i.e., with the tapered side facing out) over a washer to pull the new stud into the hub flange. You may have to rotate the hub to a particular position to allow for enough clearance behind the hub to remove/install the stud.
I bought replacement wheel studs and hooded lug nuts for a Lincoln LS at NAPA Auto Parts. The studs are a little bit longer than the original Jag studs, but work just fine. The hood (stainless cover) on the lug nuts are shaped slightly differently but are otherwise identical. I also applied anti-seize on the studs to prevent future seizing. Some folks will the studs should remain dry, but I was getting tired of changing seized/galled studs.
I bought replacement wheel studs and hooded lug nuts for a Lincoln LS at NAPA Auto Parts. The studs are a little bit longer than the original Jag studs, but work just fine. The hood (stainless cover) on the lug nuts are shaped slightly differently but are otherwise identical. I also applied anti-seize on the studs to prevent future seizing. Some folks will the studs should remain dry, but I was getting tired of changing seized/galled studs.
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