Hello,
Purchased a used 02' Black on Black X-Type last week from an auction. Had the car towed because it did not start.


So I took the battery to a local AutoZone to charge it. Went back a couple of hours later, connected the battery up and he cranked right on up for me.
However I was told that I will need a new battery because it won't hold a steady charge. They told me the battery charge up to 100% and slowly dropped. It was around 60% when I got it and put in the car to crank.


Suggestions on Battery brands and new updated cables??? I think I have a H7 Interstate battery that came in the car. I heard I need to replace the battery cables a thicker gauge cable, new connector, while getting a new battery.
Ford/Jaguar/Lincoln cable should be good right???
Thanks in advance

 

You can use a standard cable.(universal) Just need to measure yours up and get one that is long enough. as for a battery. I have a interstate in one, a duralast in another and a auto craft in the other. All work great and going on a few years old now.










Good Luck,
The Dr!

 

tsimms: Here's a couple threads on battery replacement options. Our X-Types are finicky - anything less than a strong battery, and the starter won't even attempt to crank the engine.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...x-type-123598/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...battery-10458/

I just put an H7 / 94R in my 2002 2.5L. Sam's Club has Energizer H7's for $139 with 3 year full replacement warranty. But batteries last only 3-4 years here in Houston's heat (except the Mercedes battery in the trunk, away from engine heat, lasts much longer). So I bought a $150 Everstart Maxx at Walmart with 3 year full replacement, 4-5 year prorated warranty. It's probably the same battery as Sams Club, just $11 more for a longer warranty.

All US car batteries are made by Johnson Controls or Exide, then rebranded with various prices & warranties. Prices for H7's were higher at Pep Boys, AutoZone, O'Reilly & Advanced Auto Parts, without enough difference in warranty or CCA to be of interest.

I'll let other's comment on battery cables. Aside from fixing a bad ground where the negative cable bolts to the chassis, my factory original cables are fine. Thermo has some good write-ups on how you can test your battery cables for excessive resistance. Suggest you check those out first to confirm yours really need to be replaced.

Good luck.

 

tsimms, being a person that works with batteries on a very large scale (mine can power a small town for a few hours), I have looked into automotive batteries a little bit. In short, all the batteries that you see are made by 1 of 2 companies here in the US (Exide and Johnson Controls). Yes, I know that you will find hundreds of different names on the batteries. But, this only means that they came down the same assembly line and had a different sticker put on the outside. The only exception to this is the dry cell batteries and they are a complete different monster in themselves.

So, do some looking around and see what you can find. What separates a $100 battery from a $300 is the warrantee.

As for battery cables, there are lots of options there. Lots of members have found generic cables that worked wonders on their cars and they paid very little for them. You don't even need to find a Ford part. The Autozone/Advanced/O'Reilly's/etc cheapy cables seem to work just fine.

 

Okay got cha'. Thanks.