Yeah, yeah - Jaguar not so keen to have any owner do it.
My 2017 XF is now out of extended warranty, so it had 5 oil changes at the local dealer.
From now on I will do it.
So up it goes on my 2 post hoist, but not so easily as my 2 XJ-Ss or previous XJ350.
Because of the jacking points and rocker panel trim location I had to scrabble about under the car with various wood block spacers to make sure the post arms would jack up the car before hitting that trim.
The plan was to change the oil, change the coolant and finally drain and replenish the brake fluid.
That was when I got a nasty surprise. According to the workshop manual you need a Jaguar diagnostic gadget to bleed the brakes.
How can any competent engineer design a brake system impossible to bleed with just the usual simple tools ?
Has anybody on this forum tried it ?

Generally the plumbing and wiring underneath the car is neat and tidy.
The oil filter on this 2L petrol engine is not so easy to get at. The photo shows the new one, a bit of blue in the middle of the photo.
There are numerous splash guards under the car which do keep the underside clean. The car only has 14,000km on the clock so should be clean.
There are a lot of bolts holding the major engine/transmission guard in place. Some were mighty tight, not because of rust ( they were squeaky clean ) but it looks like the mating female fasteners were out of tolerance.
They will all go back in with a dose of anti-seize. Two guard fasteners were the el cheapo plastic expanding screw type, and both written off by the dealer but really the underside of a car is no place for them. They will be replaced with nutserts and "proper" steel screws.

To drain the coolant I need to get the front splash guard off, the one under the chin at the front of the car. Should be easy but not so. My driveway has a dip coming in from the road, so the XF tends to scrape it. That has ground away the head of 3 screws and although 2 of them moved, one is stuck. With luck I will move it with a vice grip. My XJ-Ss do not scrape on the dip, but so many new cars have low clearance at the front no doubt for better aerodynamics.


Oil filter

I did take a dozen photos of the underneath to show the suspension and other things.
They help out sometimes. If anybody interested I will post them too.

 

Not happy. Leaking coolant pump at only 17,300km and 6 YO.
Now the splash guards are off I had a good look at the coolant plumbing.
Lots and lots of big plastic pipes all over the place, and just for a turbo 2L engine.
I was going to drain and refill the coolant but the drain plug for the rad is in an awkward place.
Also there appears to be a main rad, which gets drained, and another rad underneath.
The rad underneath has massive coolant pipes at each end.
That is obviously much lower than the main rad drain so it will not itself be drained. I decided to leave that idea for now.
In contrast my two V12 XJ-Ss are easy to drain and refill, and have rubber hoses which from experience last a long time and are cheap and easy to replace.
I think both my V12s will long outlast the plastic plagued XF, they are easy for DIY maintenance.

The workshop manual has some very artistic renderings of the XF cooling system, but I do not see it showing 2 rads.
Perhaps the X260 differs from the X250 and the manual is related to the X250.
I does mention a drain and refill operation requires 3 cycles of drain and refill with water before final coolant.
In between the engine must be run to near max temp then allowed to cool. That would not be a cheap service item and coolant you buy from any source usually stipulates a max of 8 years service life.
You have a 2015 X260 the 8 year service should lighten your wallet considerably in 2023.
Changing the coolant pump will require a partial drain and refill, so might need the at least part of the 3 cycle treatment.

With those guards off that is when I noticed the drip from the pump. The car is off road now for 3 weeks, no chance the pump seal has dried out just because of that.
I does look like it is directly under the pump. Also the drip would normally hit the splash guard and dissipate in the strip stream and not be obvious.
The drip is not big - yet - but is ominous. I have a feeling this is not so recent. The coolant would be topped up at last service by the dealer under warranty 9 months and 3,200km ago.
They might have noticed the coolant is low and not bothered to check why. The reservoir is only 25% full now, not good after 9 months and 3,200 km. That is a big coolant loss.
I think the dealer dodged a bullet, deliberately or inadvertently. They might have dodged it on the 2 services with that particular dealer.
The pump is easy to get at, held by 3 bolts with big O ring seal. Maybe an ex-Toyota engineer did that one. 2 out of 3 bolts are tight, 3rd one not easy to get at..
Maybe time to have an interesting talk with the dealer and perhaps JLR Australia.

 

Cannot find info on that lower rad in manual. What I think are coolant pipes might be air cooling pipes.
So many pipes in there very hard to trace. That makes more sense.

 

The water pump saga:
Pretty sure this pump was defective when fitted to the engine since it failed at 6 years and 17,300km.
Typical water pump life is 100,000km to 150,000km.
My youngest V12 XJ-S is 34 YO at 153,000km, still going strong with OEM pump.
Bitched about this to the dealer who did last dealer warranty service. They said to replace they would have to inspect the car and prepare a report for JLR Australia. Plus no service slots before 21 Feb,
To hell with waiting 4 weeks, removed the pump this morning. Very easy to get at, although the O ring seal is tight and needs careful persuasion to let go.
The pump looks brand new, the O ring is good, but the shaft seal is obviously stuffed. It is FoMOCo 157G/EJ7E stamped on the pump, but no direct Google hit. There was a hit of what might be equivalent pump used on Ford, Volvo and other engines at GBP40. It looked the same. I will squeeze JLR for a freeby seeing they may be sensitive about their reliability reputation, otherwise try a Ford replacement from Ebay or whatever. The money is not the issue, the issue is a car that cost AUD110,000 6 years ago should not have a pump fail at 17,300km. This is not normal wear and tear. Still, they do make mistakes in the factory which is understood, but if it is made good with minimum inconvenience to the owner then reputations are kept intact.

Pump high in the engine, easy to get at, good one Jaguar.

FoMOCo water pump for 2L petrol engine

FoMOCo water pump for 2L petrol engine

FoMoCo sump casting. Is this a Ford or Jag engine ? You can see orange trace from coolant leak, been there well before last service I bet.

Interesting the XF sump casting is also FoMOCo. So how much Ford is in the Ingenium engine family ?
Probably things like all the sensors, injectors, various valves and anything cheaper to buy in rather than make for a limited production run engine.
Water pumps for one thing of course !
Ford made Jaguar engines in Wales up to about 2020, but not sure it made any Jag 4 cyl engines there.
Wikepedia says Jaguar made Ingenium engines from 2015 onwards in their own factory. However, Jaguar may not have invested in a sand and die cast aluminium casting plant, more likely buying in castings to be machined. Makes sense to use FoMOCo castings if they fit the new design.

 

You are right, the AJ126 (V6) and AJ133 (V8) were built in a special area of the Ford engine plant in Bridgend, Wales, in a deal with Ford, up until Dec 2020 when the deal expired and production moved to the new JLR Wolverhampton engine plant. The same plant builds the Ingenium 2.0 I4 both diesel and petrol and I believe the I6 Ingenium.
When built at Bridgend the V6 and V8 used lots of parts stamped FoMoCo which made sense as they were in the middle of a Ford engine plant so shipping/transport costs were minimal! Of course this caused mass confusion among motoring journos and forum members who thought that the V8 in particular was a Ford engine and just a rebadged version of the Ford Coyote 5.0 V8. It ain't and never was, the AJ133 was a clean sheet design by JLR during the changeover from Ford to TATA ownership.
Dunno about the extent of FoMoCo parts since the move to Wolverhampton and I didn't know about all the FoMoCo parts on the I4 Ingenium petrol engine but again it makes since to use Ford's production scale.

 

JLR Australia was not persuaded to give me a new pump to replace one failed at 17,000km.
Even though I had pulled the dud one out and so they would not have to pay for anything else.
I dare say under similar circumstance all the many BMW, Merc and Audi owners around here would get the same treatment.
There is one difference of course. Those German cars sell like hot cakes no matter what. JLR struggle to sell Jags and they need every friend they can get to tell others what great reliable cars they are.
Out of curiosity I asked the local JLR dealer how much a new pump would cost. He said a little over AUD500 ( USD350 ).
With a lifetime of engineering and manufacturing behind me I know even made in Europe those pumps would sell to JLR for USD20 max.
Made in China more like USD10 max.
An Ebay check showed lots of similar looking pumps for AUD80 upwards to fit Ford transit vans and many 4 cyl Ford cars.
I picked one seller with a phone number and inquired. He seemed to know his stuff so I spent 1&1/2 hour round trip to his place. Needed to make sure the pump fitted.
He had the AUD80 pumps, probably Chinese aftermarket, but I went for a genuine Ford pump made in Japan at AUD115.
The box had printed on it both a Ford and Mazda logo, interesting.
In case anybody in future does a search for a pump here is the info.

X260 4 cyl petrol engine water pump L327-15-100A pay about USD80.
The important thing is the engine bore size for the pump is 69mm.
Other similar pumps used on Ford transit vans and various Ford 4 cyl ( maybe also Mazda ) engines.

While the car was up on the hoist I drained all the coolant and replaced with a well know local premium brand with 8 year life.
You need to be careful refilling with coolant. There is a plastic bleed valve which you undo a few turns for venting.
I filled the reservoir, ran the engine and vented. Made a short run and refilled about 1 litre.
Next day a 10 min drive to work and I get a low coolant fault. Sure enough, about 1.5 litre low.
So if you refill make sure to carry about 2 litres of coolant in the boot, you might need it.

 

Nice detail. I think I have exactly the same car.
Can I ask what nutserts you used.
TIA
Hugh

 

Definitely interested in more photos.

 

M6 nutserts.

The fastener system used to bolt up all those undertrays is a bit iffy.
Some bolts go into the metalwork of the chassis, quite conventional.
Other bolts hold sections of undertray to other undertrays, needing a fastener in the undertray to receive the bolt.
The female fastener is a floating type fitted to a square hole in the undertray. It has an M6 thread formed by piercing the steel blank then rolling an M6 thread. The thread is then slightly deformed so it grabs the M6 bolt that is used to hold up the undertray
That way you use a bolt with an integral oversize washer, no need for a spring washer or similar to keep the bolt from working loose.

Those bolts have about 20mm of thread that sticks above the female fastener once inserted. On my car which had 5 warranty service oil changes the bolts were squeaky clean, no corrosion. All the same some were really tight to remove, others not much. To make this system work as intended you need extremely tight tolerances on the bolt thread and the fastener M6 deformation. I can see in parts of the world with salted roads in winter those bolts will corrode. To try and release 20mm of thread the torque required will rip the floating fastener out of the square hole in the undertray. One of mine was ripped out during the dealer service, and my bolts were good. Not the best idea.
If you use a system with normal M6 threads and spring washers you only need turn the bolt 1/8 of a turn to release the tension and extract the bolt. A lot less likely to mess up the fastener in the undertray.
Next time I have my car up on the hoist for an oil change I will run an M6 tap through the fasteners. I will replace the Jag items with SS bolts, oversize washers ( sometimes called mudguard washers ) and also use ant-seize.

For the ripped out fastener courtesy of the dealer service I can make an aluminium plate with a square hole to take a captive M6 nut which luckily I have plenty of. Then pop rivet or screw the plate to the undertray.

 

There are about 25 photos which might exceed the download limit.
I have no desire to clutter up the forum with too many photos of limited value.
On the XJ-S forums the majority are DIY types who like photos relevant to DIY activities.
Not so sure about this forum being populated by DIY enthusiasts, and the cars are so much younger and ( say your prayers ) not needing serious repair work.

If nobody else interested I can just email them privately.

 

Yes, it's clear that Jaguar, along with many other car manufacturers, prioritise ease of initial assembly over any subsequent maintenance needs. Missing off spring washers and instead just deforming the threads means there is one less operation to do when initially fitting the undertrays. If this results in the captive spring nuts ripping out of the undertray when you try to remove the screws, then too bad, it's not JLR's problem!