I just changed my own oil. It was really easy. I am really annoyed with Dealer Service. I got an extractor and a filter for $80 on Amazon. I got 7 quarts of 0-20 synthetic from Reilly, their house brand. It took less than ½ hour to complete the job. Dealer took 5 hours last time I went there. I did get the factory service manual to confirm that it was not a big deal. Ref. pp 2178 ,2231 and 2241. The oil was $44 and the filter was maybe $10. I hope I never pay the dealer $230 and wait 5 hours for them to over fill the motor and make me wait another ½ hour arguing over them removing a pint. Not to mention them trying to tack on $130 for "Crankcase cleaning" without asking me first or having any reason to think I needed it.
Harumph.
P.

 

Just the time saving is worth it. The extraction tube in the oil filler hole makes it super easy. My tire dealer also does minor mechanical work like water pumps, brakes, etc. and only charges me a little over $100 to change the oil including filter and oil. Like you, it's worth the time saving to me just not taking the used oil in for recycling. I rotate tires every 5K miles and have them change the oil at the same time.

 

$100 is reasonable for a place you trust. I am hoping my OBD reader will reset the service req'd notice.
P;.

 

"Not to mention them trying to tack on $130 for "Crankcase cleaning" without asking me first or having any reason to think I needed it"

Crankcase cleaning sounds like a scam to me.
How do they do it? The only sure way to do so would be to remove the sump and physically wash down the sides of the crankcase - but that is NEVER necessary.
The only other option I can think of is to drain the old oil, fill the engine with flushing oil and run it for a while with that in it before draining down and filling with normal oil. That also shouldn't be necessary if the engine has had routine oil changes and, anyway, I'm not convinced that running an engine on flushing oil doesn't risk some engine damage.
So either they didn't "clean the crankcase" and are attempting, fraudulently, to charge you for it, or they did do something that might damage the engine.
Much better to do the oil and filter change yourself!

 

I do that too using an oil extractor. I use Valvoline, Pennzoil, Quaker State or Mobil1 for my 2018XF 2.0. I've never used the specified JLR oil. As a matter of fact my 2012 Land Rover LR2's current mileage is more than 147K miles using top tier oil brands sold at WM. IT requires too the specified JLR motor oil. But I do an OCI of 5K miles or less on all of my vehicles

 

I believe you can reset it from the available menu.

 

I can't find the reset on my OBD II reader, but it does not concern me greatly.
Crankcase cleaning, in the good old days, involved adding a quart of ATF to the crankcase and running the engine for a few minutes before the oil change. ATF was said to be highly detergent.
P.

 

The reset is on the car's menu if my memory is correct.

 

With Jaguar engines being so sensitive to oil quality, I'd be VERY cautious about putting auto transmission oil into the engine.

 

No, couldn't find any reset on the drop down menus.
P.

 

You don't need a scan tool or code reader to reset the oil change reminder. However, it isn't any of the menus. See this video:

 

Great video, I will try that and report back. Tx

 

Good video, mixed report: I wasn't getting the Service Required notice on my dash when I started the procedure, but I ran through the procedure anyway. Still no Service Required notice, which is good, but the next step, in Vehicle Information, Next Service for oil, I get "0 miles". That does not pop up on my dash board, but there should be some way to reset that to pop up in a year, as it has done in the past.
So my immediate concern is resolved for unknown reasons and I hope someone else will watch the video and report of their success.
P.

 

Factory Service Manual advises as follows:
Page 4224
=-=-=-=-=-=--=


Service Indicator Reset(G1821737)

GENERAL PROCEDURES Synchronization
NOTE:

Make sure the Jaguar approved diagnostic equipment is not connected to the vehicle.

1. Set the ignition to the ON position.
   
2. Open the hood.
   
3. Open the drivers door.
   
4. NOTE:
   
   If the accelerator pedal pressed before the brake pedal this will cause Brake Over Accelerator (BOA) logic and will default the accelerator pedal to 0%. If this happens the service reset procedure will have to be restarted.
   
   Fully depress the brake pedal then the accelerator pedal and hold for 10 seconds.
   
5. NOTE:
   
   A service resetting message will appear on the instrument cluster.
   
   Release the accelerator and brake pedals and set the ignition to the OFF position.
   
6. Set the ignition to the ON position and check the message has been cleared.
   
7. If the message remains, repeat the process.
   

 

OK, done. I followed the instructions above from the service manual, three times, and my drop down service required menu now says I will need an oil change in 14,200 miles.
If someone can get on the YouTube page referenced above, tell the guy what the service manual said to do. He never mentioned raising the hood as far as I can recall.
Also, press the brake before the gas.
Also, the hood release is good enough, you don't have to open the hood.
Courage,
P.

 

I would be wary about using O'Reilly or Autozone "house brand" of engine oil in a Jag engine with a turbo and/or DPF. The oil to Jag spec has additives that prevent it carbonising in the turbo bearings and, for diesel engines, clogging the DPF. I'm not sure that own brand oils will have these additives and they may even contain some cleaned up recycled oil as well

 

I hope you're wrong, but I just don't know. I don't have a turbo, I have a supercharger which runs cooler so that should be less critical. OReilly claims to meet a variety of industry standards and I have no idea what those acronyms mean.
P.

 

2017 XF 20d
My routine for an oil change is to perform an engine flush with either AMSOIL or LIQUI MOLY flush agents for 15 minutes
Drain and fill with cheap synthetic Walmart oil. run another 10 minutes and drain again ( Note: oil still came out Black )
Replace Oil filter with genuine Jag filter.
Fill using AMSOIL 0W-30 MS 100% Synthetic European Motor Oil and add a bottle and half of CERATEC. idle engine another 10 minutes.
Note: oil on dipstick now looks clear not black
I have been very pleased with this process - engine runs and idles smooth and good mileage.
I don't go the full extended range for the oil change and prefer to change at 12,000
AMSOIL does detail that this oil is good for turbo and DPF engines also extended oil change if desired.

 

Yeah, I’d be raging at that TBF. Rookie error.

 

Hello all. I need some advise: I have a 2016 XF35t. Today, I attempted an oil change using my extractor; I got nothing. I've used it on my daughter's Audi, which uses a much larger tube than the Jag, so I'm familiar. I used the thinnest tube in the kit; I was able to push it quite a way down the tube until I felt a solid stop and, after applying suction, both with the manual pump and my compressor, no oil. And, when I pulled the tube out, it appeared dry, no oil on the exterior of the tube. I saw on a Euro site someone doing a v6 diesel; they did not insert the tube, rather, the fitted a coupler over the tube and then applied vacuum. Any advise is appreciated.