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I just had a similar issue occur. In a 6 foot 9 inch parking garage. Started car. Gear selector rose. Turned knob to R. Backed up then could not get it to rotate into D. Turned car off. Now stuck up in R. Cannot get car to start. Disconnected battery terminals and touched together. Left disconnected 15 minutes. With doors shut. Reconnected battery. Locked and unlocked driver door with key. Knob did not go down. Battery was at 12.1 to 12.3 volts. What should the battery voltage be? It is 3 years old.
Put car into neutral with hidden lever. Pushed car on 5th level into another open parking spot. Cannot get tow truck in garage. A real aggravation. A jump from another car did not help either. Any recommendations?
No, I am not aware of the junction box problem. What and where is it? I know there appears to be a low bat shutoff device on the negative cable. Is it related to this?
My VIN is an early 2009 and in the 2400 range. I know there was a gear selector circuit board quality issue below 30000 VINs. I never was told this or saw a bulletin. In my opinion I should have been notified if this by Jag or the dealer I regularly serviced with when in warranty. Never was notified. Just called Jag to voice my displeasure. Not sure what the supplier quality issue was but being in the auto industry I bet it was a PCB soldering issue which could show up as a durability issue many years later after vibration and temp cycling.
I am driving 2 hours tomorrow to get back to the car with a trailer and new battery. Will pull the codes then. Not looking forward to the manual car push down 5 levels of a parking garage! Hope a new battery works but please let me know more about the box connection issue. I would also great appreciate a share of the service bulletin about the gear selector circuit board quality issue if anyone has it. Thanks!!!
See the junction box problem in the attached document BUT let's hope a new battery will get you up and running!
Also attached is the TSB for the shifter and your right that was a problem on the early cars too.
No what your seeing on the battery terminal is part of the BMS system. See the attached document on how the BMS works if your interested.
Please keep posting back if you can so your problems will help others in the same position.
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I was only able to just leave now to go to the car 2 hrs away since I spent most of yesterday creating a hitch based winch mounting system in case I have to grab a UHaul trailer to take the car home. These trailers have no winch connection capability. I will report what happens. I have a new Interstate battery that is at 12.9V with me as step #1. I will pull codes with my reader too. Hopefully no traiker will be needed! Drop hitch used to connect winch.
I retrieved the car from the 6’9” parking garage with my winch setup and a Uhaul trailer. The new battery I bought and took the 150 miles away did not solve the problem and allow the gear selector to lower. So with the knob still up and in R I pulled codes but had none. I spent time on the phone with Indy Jaguar and their top technician for this type of issue and he agreed that the issue had to be a bad gear selector circuit board when I talked him thru everything I had done. These run about $1000 and another $500 in labor plus have a long delay since they are only in stock in England.
Last Thursday, was leaving from work, started and put the car into reverse, backed up, gear selector would not move out of reverse. Tried the on/off/on (which as worked before) with now luck. Then released the transmission with the secret lever, but the car would not move. Ended up lifting the rear of the car with floor jacks and maneuvering into a parking space. Now down the path of fixing the gear selector.
First, remove almost all of the interior trim: A lot of trim removed to get access. See gear selector still in the up position. The infamous R510 location Upon removing the board, noticed the silicon cover folded over during assembly. Not sure if related to the problem. Good solder of the R510. Opposite side of the R510. Not a good solder joint. Looks like intermittent at best. May explain why it sometimes had issues. It works! A note of caution - when I removed the shifting mechanism, one of the white pins shot out - and I spent about 45 minutes searching for it, but found it! Fixed! gear selector is now down. Back in the car, all trim back together, working as expected for the past few days!
This is a great forum with a wealth of knowledge. I could not have fixed this (and other issues I have had) without the information provided by members (and moderators). Thank you for all of your contributions.
I tried doing a Google search for help on this, and this forum continued to come up as a good resource, so I'm hoping someone here is able to help.
We have a 2009 XF, it is an early build we actually got it in 2008. And this morning we couldn't get it out of Park. The knob rotated up, and was locked. We shut the car off and turned it back on a few times and nothing. Thought it was the smart key for some reason, and put that in it's little "home." Nothing. Tried to activate the parking brake and then we got an error that there was a "parking brake fault."
Does anyone have suggestions on how to at least get it into gear so that we can move it. It is currently parking in my car, and at a minimum I'd like to try to move it so we've got something to drive.
There is a cable hidden under the center console which you can pull to put the car in neutral so it can be pushed. Be sure you have the wheels blocked especially if on an incline because the car will roll.
Also, after having this happen 2 times to me and having a $1500 cost to replace the module I put in a permanent fix I found on the Internet from a UK mechanic. Took duct tape of multiple layers. Punched a hole in it on on end about 1/2” back with a paper hole punch. Slipped it over the white pawl latch after disassembling the shifter control module. Pulled the latch back with the tape. Pinched the other end between the cover and housing at reassembly so the latch was always disengaged. Eliminates the issues but you could start the car in gear after doing this but 90% of the drivers are intelligent enough to never do this!
There is a cable hidden under the center console which you can pull to put the car in neutral so it can be pushed. Be sure you have the wheels blocked especially if on an incline because the car will roll.
Also, after having this happen 2 times to me and having a $1500 cost to replace the module I put in a permanent fix I found on the Internet from a UK mechanic. Took duct tape of multiple layers. Punched a hole in it on on end about 1/2” back with a paper hole punch. Slipped it over the white pawl latch after disassembling the shifter control module. Pulled the latch back with the tape. Pinched the other end between the cover and housing at reassembly so the latch was always disengaged. Eliminates the issues but you could start the car in gear after doing this but 90% of the drivers are intelligent enough to never do this!
Yep, found that one with the tape on the Range Rover pop up, also someone who said they put a bit of string through the console to pull back when needed. Hopefully I can avoid these "hacks" and there's a clear dry solder that I can fix.
On UK ebay I've found a load of replacement consoles at £150 GBP worst case.
There is a cable hidden under the center console which you can pull to put the car in neutral so it can be pushed. Be sure you have the wheels blocked especially if on an incline because the car will roll.
Also, after having this happen 2 times to me and having a $1500 cost to replace the module I put in a permanent fix I found on the Internet from a UK mechanic. Took duct tape of multiple layers. Punched a hole in it on on end about 1/2” back with a paper hole punch. Slipped it over the white pawl latch after disassembling the shifter control module. Pulled the latch back with the tape. Pinched the other end between the cover and housing at reassembly so the latch was always disengaged. Eliminates the issues but you could start the car in gear after doing this but 90% of the drivers are intelligent enough to never do this!
I got the unit out and reviewed the resistor situation, it looks like I have a newer board though as the part number is a 8X237E453CF not the 8X237E453GC and the resistor is a R500 not a R510. Anyways, on closer looking I think there is a crack in one of the solders (attached) but TBH the level of soldering skill required is way beyond me to be confident not to wreck the board.
So I followed the "packing tape" hack that you used (
), but I now have a Gear Box Warning on the dash and two fault codes (P0851 and U0103) that appear to be potentially due to the fact that the level is always disengaged.
I assume that the hack you did was the same, did you get the warning and codes ?
Happened to me over the weekend
