2010 Jaguar XF Premium 5.0 V8 keeps shutting down and wont stay running
I have a 2010 Jaguar XF Premium 5.0 V8
recently replaced the alternator because the car completely shut down on me one day leaving work got it towed and had my guy come take a look at it. alternator was fried the wire on the harness had melted the wire it wasnt even connected. The ground wire is burnt and charred. I replaced the alternator, battery and got a wiring harness made, he spliced it put it on but still used the same ground wire. The car ran for about 10 mins then shut off again. The car had power but my infotainment system screen just keeps flickering on and off it wont even load to gove me the options. Ive had no luck in finding a replacement ground wire. I cant move the car, i need help i really need my car back on the road ASAP. PLEASE CAN ANYONE HELP AND LEAD ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION TO DIAGNOSING AND FIXING THIS PROBLEM?
recently replaced the alternator because the car completely shut down on me one day leaving work got it towed and had my guy come take a look at it. alternator was fried the wire on the harness had melted the wire it wasnt even connected. The ground wire is burnt and charred. I replaced the alternator, battery and got a wiring harness made, he spliced it put it on but still used the same ground wire. The car ran for about 10 mins then shut off again. The car had power but my infotainment system screen just keeps flickering on and off it wont even load to gove me the options. Ive had no luck in finding a replacement ground wire. I cant move the car, i need help i really need my car back on the road ASAP. PLEASE CAN ANYONE HELP AND LEAD ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION TO DIAGNOSING AND FIXING THIS PROBLEM?
I assume that guy checked the ground wire and found it good?
If I where you I would make sure the new battery is fully charged, then see if the car starts with that. If it does, measure the voltage you get on the battery whilst the engine is running. Should be well above 13V, ideally 14,3V. If it is less the new alternator does not charge and the car will shut off soon again.
If the battery is fully charged and the car does not crank, check for corroded battery terminals including the ground point to the chassis next to the battery.
Other than that it would be helpful to know which cables where burnt / spliced and what exactly was wrong in the old alternator. Depending on what component failed it might have also damaged other parts in the cars network.
Chris
If I where you I would make sure the new battery is fully charged, then see if the car starts with that. If it does, measure the voltage you get on the battery whilst the engine is running. Should be well above 13V, ideally 14,3V. If it is less the new alternator does not charge and the car will shut off soon again.
If the battery is fully charged and the car does not crank, check for corroded battery terminals including the ground point to the chassis next to the battery.
Other than that it would be helpful to know which cables where burnt / spliced and what exactly was wrong in the old alternator. Depending on what component failed it might have also damaged other parts in the cars network.
Chris
The alternator has to be OEM Jag, most aftermarket won't work right.
A degraded battery can fry the alternator like that, replace it if anything over 2 years old. Check the wiring that it is not fried again, really this harness portion should be replaced with recycled spare or new. Rigging it just adds another variable to why things are not working right.
It is possible that the fried alternator destroyed other electronic components, need to scan with higher level diagnostic equipment to read status. Cheap OBD dongle may not tell much.
Before all that, there is a possibility that some electronic component is drawing too much current and that will fry any alternator you get installed. So it has to be checked with diagnostic tools that the current draw is at normal levels, the scan can have some clues as well.
Possible to get lucky swapping parts but really this hooptie needs some time at a competent independent shop familiar with the brand to determine root cause.
A degraded battery can fry the alternator like that, replace it if anything over 2 years old. Check the wiring that it is not fried again, really this harness portion should be replaced with recycled spare or new. Rigging it just adds another variable to why things are not working right.
It is possible that the fried alternator destroyed other electronic components, need to scan with higher level diagnostic equipment to read status. Cheap OBD dongle may not tell much.
Before all that, there is a possibility that some electronic component is drawing too much current and that will fry any alternator you get installed. So it has to be checked with diagnostic tools that the current draw is at normal levels, the scan can have some clues as well.
Possible to get lucky swapping parts but really this hooptie needs some time at a competent independent shop familiar with the brand to determine root cause.
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