Good day guys I have a major problem. I recently got hit in the rear left quarter panel of my car. I own a 2010 jaguar xf 3.0l v6 petrol. I gave the job of repair to a local body work guy who didn't took off the battery terminal and did arc welding on the car. Since then the car have not been starting. What I am facing is when trying to start the car both front and rear lights comes on and seems to not respond to the light controls on the steering wheel, the gear selector module will raise and then you hear a beeping sound. Even the wipers controls won't work a matter of fact nothing on by the steering wheel works. A bunch a fault codes came up. I got someone to check it out the fuses are still good not burned I even changed the gear selector module and it's the same thing. I need major help cause I love this car a lot and it's becoming frustrating because it seems like the new guys can't fix it or don't know where to start. I would love if anyone in here have ever had this problem. Again gear selector comes up buy would not move and car won't start. A/C, lock buttons the screen works just not everything else.

 

Welcome to the forums merital2k,

I've moved your question from New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum to X250 forum for advice from members with the same model.

What I can tell you is there is a high risk of damaged sensitive electronic modules. To help troubleshoot the issue, post the actual fault codes and whether these were read using dealer level Jaguar SDD (Symptom Driven Diagnostics) or just a compatible generic code reader.

Graham

 

Gear selector, transmission module, emergency parking brake, fuel low and not showing any level these are some the codes i remember. And it's not sure what level SDD was used I know it was by a certified mechanic.

 

Please listen to Graham!
Without the factory SDD system you have no chance of fixing this.
You also can't just start swapping modules around as they require programming.

Either spend the time and effort to get a working SDD system OR find a repair shop (Maybe a dealer?) that has a working SDD. Ask them before you take the car in.
With what the car has gone thru there is no telling what is wrong or how difficult it will be to fix it.

You need to post the actual codes and then erase all of them to see what comes back. You most likely will have dozens of codes because of what the car has gone thru. So we need to narrow it down some so it's not so complicated.

Post back with the codes you currently have and then erase everything.
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These are the codes that came up even after clearing them.

 

OK great!
The U codes are network codes. These usually mean a voltage problem which points back to the battery.
You have a 2010 car. How old is the battery? Would you consider swapping the battery out?

You said the shifter rises but does the engine turn over or crank any at all?

You do have one hard failure and that's a speed sensor code. Too bad your scanner does not tell us where sensor "A" is?
One other concern is that crash sensor error? Since the car was in an accident I think if the air bags have been deployed then the car is dead in the water.
That could require replacing the Restraints Control Module. This will require programming.

You mentioned the car was scanned in SDD but your pictures show a different scanner? Anyway you can try to erase the codes using SDD? It might be possible to get rid of the crash error using SDD but the guy will need to be experienced in the use of SDD?

So in summary I "think" the wreck tripped the airbags then set the Restraints Control Module to crash status or input which then removes power from the fuel pump via the ECM. Do you have any fuel pressure or sounds of a fuel pump running in the fuel tank?

The attached TSB is for LR but points directly at your problem?
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So you do not think it is because of the welding that was done on the car.? Eventhough all fuses and relay did not get burned. I will gladly pass on this info to the mechanic and see whats up because he already got me to buy a used gear selector module. So i guess the original one that came with my car is still good.?

 

Well I have welded on all kinds of cars and have never removed a battery cable and have never seen any damage. Now what I do see is a bunch of Internet experts proclaiming to know everything. So my suggestion is if you are worried about this do the simple thing and remove the battery connection before welding.

So no I don't think welding has or had anything to do with your problems. I think they have all come from the fact the car was wrecked.

Can't say about the shifter module because it might just need to be programmed to your car? I just don't know if that is needed or not? Again in SDD you will find out if it needs it or not. Does SDD see it in module configuration?
See what I mean? Without using SDD we are just lost on what to do next.

So I am still not clear if your mechanic has a working SDD or not? I think you will need a shop that has this access to repair your car.
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Ok I will definitely see it to you answer and let you know what's up. Thank you soo much man

 

1. The shifter rises but the engine does not turn over or crank only a beeping sound that comes on after the start button is pressed and after the shifter rises.

2. Headlights and tail lights are on and wont turned off.

3. Indicators left or right would not turn on unless the hazard button on the dash is pressed.

4. Door locks and windows can go up and down by the window condrols.

5. Radio plays.

6. None of the airbags did deployed by the accident for it was nothing major. Maybe because of the location the car was hit. Which is the left rear quarter panel, breaking the left tail light and bumper and cause the trunk lid to shift.

I can take a video next time and post it a short clip that is.

 

Good you don't need to replace airbags then! I don't think a video will help.
I still think your main problem is the permanent crash code.

Can you comment on SDD? I think it will be required as this is a high level repair and only JLR diagnostics will fix it. If it can be fixed. There are some things that require a module replacement which then would require that module to be programmed which brings us back around to having a working SDD setup? Most modules can be reprogrammed if you tell SDD that it is a new module. Then SDD disregards any current programming in the module since it thinks it's new and blank. This does not always work but is something to try.

Can you post any screen shots when your in SDD? Especially the one that shows all the cars modules and whether SDD can see them or not?
Something like this from my 2014 XJR;



I have circled 3 things above. First DO NOT do anything if the battery symbol is NOT green!!! I must emphasize this as you can get by somewhat with a yellow symbol but please get it fixed! Yellow=bad, green=good.

Next make sure in the lower right hand corner that SDD displays "JLR MongoosePro is connected". This means whatever you have connected to SDD it see's and identifies the cable properly.

The other red circle is just what version SDD you are using.

What you are looking for are red X's in place of the green check marks and red question marks. If you don't have any red X's then that is a good sign too. All the modules have somewhat cryptic names but some search's will let you figure out what's what. That little box above everything tells you what the symbols mean.

I am hoping someone with knowledge on how get rid of the crash status stuff will post as it seems to be very hard to reset!
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frankly, I'd turn this whole mess over to a dealer service center. My personal opinion is that these early XF's are beautiful, fun cars, but electrical nightmares. And yeah, I still have my 2009. But what engineer thought it would be cool to have a glovebox that can ONLY be opened with a finger touch sensor?????!!! That sensor is powered by a fuse that powers the cigar lighter. If you're asked by a police officer for your registration and it's in the glovebox with a blown fuse, it ain't opening.... anyway...we love driving the car and it's pretty, but almost everything on it is beyond diy.

 

I will Let the mechanics know what you said

 

yes they are really beautiful indeed I just miss mines that's all

 

The problem is Jaguar dealers are too expensive and even more worrying are the reports we have on this forum? If the car is 10 years old or older they refuse to even work on the car! This is at the factory dealerships!

So you might just not have any other option except to DIY. But it will not work very well because you are talking to another guy and then he does the work.
Let's hope his SDD is working and he knows how to operate it.

I have found the only way I can own an expensive luxury car is to maintain it myself. Even the dealers cause all kinds of damages when doing repairs and that's IF they even get if fixed right the first time. That's not a hack against Jaguar but against ANY repair shop! See below!

Had a ring and pinion replaced at a local highly rated shop as that was too heavy of work for me on a 2014 F-150. Work done fine but they left off BOTH sides of the rear caliper bolts! Yes the entire caliper was loose and I could just pull it off the disc! I took me a year to find this out because of all the clanking in the rear brakes area but it's not my truck so I was not driving it everyday.

Had the window tint redone (again something I just don't do) in my wife's 2013 Eco-Boost AWD Lincoln MKS. AC controls going crazy on the drive home from the tint shop. Come to find out the installer had turned the heat up to max after installing the tint to dry it all out. Now that car has TOUCH sensors for the HVAC and NOT push sensors! They are ceramic backed sensors and if pushed on too hard the ceramic cracks and in our car it was the drivers side + temperature control so the heat went to max anytime the car was running. Real nice in August in South Texas!

Now here is the fun part? Ford no longer makes this part and only used ones are available with probably the same problems as ours. BUT with more research I did find a repair place and for about $300 he fixed these tender ceramic switches. Had to remove the panel from the car and send it off for about 7-10 days so the cars was down all that time too.

I do NOT trust ANYBODY to work on my cars!!
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okay guys sorry for late response I bought thr SDD tool and the Mangoose cable. However everytime I connect it from computer to car, it always giving me *CONNECT APPROVED BATTERY UNIT* which I can't get passed even with battery swapped out and a fully charged battery is installed. I even swapped out the ground cable to the battery just to see if it will get passed that point so I can do a proper diagnosis. Help please because the mechanic now saying can be a ground wire somewhere. If anyone have a diagram of all the ground cables on the 2010 module jaguar xf can you post it here or a video showing such.

 

You need an additional power supply, you could try jumper leads to another battery to increase power.

 

okay I will try that thank you