2010 XFR Brake Question
Question, when moving slowly and applying the brakes do you hear two audible clicks. I have only had my car a few months and do not recall the clicks when I first got it, now I can hear them. Just not sure if something has changed or I am just now noticing. Brakes seem to be working fine. Thanks in advance.
Greg
Greg
I have no idea what you are talking about, if that is any help at all. My XFR just bites on the brakes, that is all. No clicking or anything like that. I do get the odd shudder from high speed - I am on my second set of discs in 8k miles!
Free with a 2011 thankfully - the disks are covered as consumables under the platinum warranty. They were juddering under braking from higher speed so I suspected they were warped. The dealer who changed them said that they showed signs of discolouration due to heat transfer (or something like that). I was glad they were covered - can't be cheap. I have had a couple of cars in the past that were prone to warped disks. One thing I have always done after braking from high speed is to make sure I don't sit stationary with the brakes still applied - harder to do in an Auto than a manual, so I have got into the habit of selecting neutral while waiting at the lights, for example.
Not warping, uneven deposition of pad material which sometimes shows up as discoloration. It is due to uneven heat transfer but it takes a lot of heat to discolor cast iron, much more to warp it.
It is important to bed brakes in to reduce the risk of this happening again. A series of firm braking events from highway speeds allowing the pads time to cool in between and never stopping the car completely will bed the brakes in quickly and efficiently. Otherwise it is important to brake very firmly fairly frequently for the first 1,000 km or so after new brake pads are fitted, longer if new or turned rotors are fitted also. Obviously this has to be done when nobody is tailgating you!
Also, after aggressive braking it is important not to stop and hold the car in one position as this can imprint the pad onto the rotor causing this misnamed "warping".
During a hard stop it is better for the brakes, and safer actually, to brake hardest initially and then ease to a stop allowing the pad and rotor to cool together somewhat before holding the car on the brakes.
For the same reason the EPB should not be used to hold the car immediately after a significant braking event. If you track the car these techniques are essential if using street pads.
It is important to bed brakes in to reduce the risk of this happening again. A series of firm braking events from highway speeds allowing the pads time to cool in between and never stopping the car completely will bed the brakes in quickly and efficiently. Otherwise it is important to brake very firmly fairly frequently for the first 1,000 km or so after new brake pads are fitted, longer if new or turned rotors are fitted also. Obviously this has to be done when nobody is tailgating you!
Also, after aggressive braking it is important not to stop and hold the car in one position as this can imprint the pad onto the rotor causing this misnamed "warping".
During a hard stop it is better for the brakes, and safer actually, to brake hardest initially and then ease to a stop allowing the pad and rotor to cool together somewhat before holding the car on the brakes.
For the same reason the EPB should not be used to hold the car immediately after a significant braking event. If you track the car these techniques are essential if using street pads.
Last edited by jagular; Dec 22, 2011 at 10:14 AM.
No clicking with my car. Like was said above, just smooth braking. When I first got it it tended to grab just at the threshold between the roll and the stop, but now that I've got some miles everything is smooth and predicable.
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