When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Small update with another addition - if there's one thing I've always been a little bit disappointed with, it was the lack of side bolster support on my XF Supercharged, so I scored these two front seats from a 2012 XFR:
Installed and wired in.
The wiring took quite a lot of work as the connectors are completely different on the seats between the 2010 and the 2012, and I swapped the driver's seat ECU so I didn't have to worry about coding it, but basically everything works (bar a code about an occupancy sensor so I may either have to swap it or there may be a way of reprogramming it).
So I bet you all thought I'd given up - not quite there yet, but sadly the car has taken a bit of a back burner position these last couple of months. Here's a couple of progress photos though.
ARP studs/bolts for the main bearing caps
M10 main studs in place
A cap bolted in place with M10 studs/nuts and M8 bolts
Main bearing caps torqued down
I have a set of standard crank and rod bearings on order, they should be here in a week or so.
I've had a quick go with the dial bore gauge and the crank journals don't appear to be out-of-round, but I'll need to talk to ARP about what torque I should be using with the bolts before re-checking, because otherwise it'll need a line bore hone (which I'd rather avoid). I'm also thinking I may not be able to use ARP rod bolts any more as the rods are fracture-split, so you can't resize the big ends if you need to with the ARP bolts, and I'm not sure my budget will stretch to having custom forged rods made, especially with the additional time this will add to an already overrun project.
Not all this time has been wasted though, here's a spyshot of my Work-In-Progress attempt to address heatsoak in the engine bay
Needs a bit more work and then it should be ready for paint. I have a lot more photos of the process I went through to do this, so I can chuck them up once it's done.
Great job , I’m glad seeing your engine working and sounds great, I’m working on my LR4 N/A engine and I have exactly same issue as yours spun bearing but mine were the last two conRods , I send the crankshaft to a machine shop but my issue I’m short on some information about the crankshaft main journals and connection journal std specifications and also the torque for both hopefully you can help me with that
Last edited by Jaff Ahmad; 01-13-2019 at 02:14 AM.
Hey Jaff - sadly, while the workshop manual specifications table (attached) has quite a lot, it doesn't have any specifications of the of the crankshaft - only the camshafts. It does however have the torque settings of the main and connecting rod bolts at the bottom of the document.
Bear in mind that these bolts, being torque-to-yield, can only be used a couple of times. The connecting rod bolts for the 5.0 are the same as the 4.2, so those can (and probably should) be replaced, but I wasn't able to source new main bearing bolts, you may have more luck. In the end I used ARP bolts and studs.
Hey Jaff - sadly, while the workshop manual specifications table (attached) has quite a lot, it doesn't have any specifications of the of the crankshaft - only the camshafts. It does however have the torque settings of the main and connecting rod bolts at the bottom of the document.
Bear in mind that these bolts, being torque-to-yield, can only be used a couple of times. The connecting rod bolts for the 5.0 are the same as the 4.2, so those can (and probably should) be replaced, but I wasn't able to source new main bearing bolts, you may have more luck. In the end I used ARP bolts and studs.
Thanks for pdf file It is really helpful, and also I know there is no specification for crankshafts any where I was hoping that you have the measurements from the good used crankshaft you bought before you mount it to check the clearance I know it’s been more than a year I’m pretty sure you won’t remember unless you wrote it down somewhere
and also I would like to rent the tools you used (the timing set and the injectors puller ) if you still have em btw I live in Sacramento
Last edited by Jaff Ahmad; 01-16-2019 at 12:53 AM.
Thanks for pdf file It is really helpful, and also I know there is no specification for crankshafts any where I was hoping that you have the measurements from the good used crankshaft you bought before you mount it to check the clearance I know it’s been more than a year I’m pretty sure you won’t remember unless you wrote it down somewhere
Sadly, I can only find the measurements for the conrod journals rather than the mains, but I measured all journals (at the front and the rear of the journal, as well as 90degrees out) as being between 2.2041 and 2.2045", with an out-of-round of no more than 0.0002".
Originally Posted by Jaff Ahmad
and also I would like to rent the tools you used (the timing set and the injectors puller ) if you still have em btw I live in Sacramento
The Injector Puller I used was owned by the shop I had the car stored in, so I can't really help with that. I've been using the crank locking tool from the timing kit to refit the transmission etc - you're welcome to borrow the kit once I know I don't need it any more, but if you're looking to get it done quicker than that then the kits can be had pretty cheaply off eBay.
Sadly, I can only find the measurements for the conrod journals rather than the mains, but I measured all journals (at the front and the rear of the journal, as well as 90degrees out) as being between 2.2041 and 2.2045", with an out-of-round of no more than 0.0002".
The Injector Puller I used was owned by the shop I had the car stored in, so I can't really help with that. I've been using the crank locking tool from the timing kit to refit the transmission etc - you're welcome to borrow the kit once I know I don't need it any more, but if you're looking to get it done quicker than that then the kits can be had pretty cheaply off eBay.
You are a brave man. I don't think I'd have the guts to tackle a rebuild on a Jag 5.0
Mainly due to the lack of information and advice.
I didn't read the thread. Just the first post and last page. Did you find the cause of it being low on oil? It likely burned off I'm assuming. Any clues as to how or why?
Did you find the cause of it being low on oil? It likely burned off I'm assuming. Any clues as to how or why?
After all of this, I still don't have a definitive answer, but these are all likely contributors:
The removal of the physical dipstick, replacing it with an electronic sensor that will never warn you if the level gets too low - you have to proactively go into a menu on the instrument cluster and check it. It has a set of specific parameters with which it will provide a reading, and I underestimated the amount of oil these engines apparently naturally consume throughout a service interval, and rarely if ever could be bothered with trying to get a meaningful message about my oil level. I have always accepted that an engine failure due to low oil level is my responsibility and obviously will be checking a lot more frequently now, but I feel there's parts of the electronic oil measurement that weren't designed well.
The lack of an oil pressure switch, and corresponding warning message on the dash, which might have given me enough warning to save my engine. The owner's manual makes reference to an oil pressure warning message, and the electrical wiring diagrams include an oil pressure sensor, but only the wiring diagrams make it clear that only the V6 engine has an oil pressure sensor - the V8 does not. I have not confirmed this but I have a strong suspicion that they planned to fit the oil pressure sensor on the V8 engine in the threaded hole on the side of the block below the passenger side exhaust manifold (as this hole tees directly off the oil supply line from the pump, so it makes sense to take a pressure reading here) but they were probably concerned about heat issues with the proximity to the exhaust so they removed it (the hole has a threaded plug on production V8s). The V6 doesn't have the rear-most exhaust ports of the V8 so maybe the distance between the manifold and the sensor is great enough on that engine? Either way I've repurposed that hole with a braided hose to run my own oil pressure sensor
A small oil weep from the vacuum pump. Maybe it had been going on longer than I thought.
The issue with timing guide wear that affects 2010-2012 5.0 V8 engines - this is well known about in the Range Rover world but not so much here, which is a little surprising, but essentially the timing guide tensioner pins are made of a stronger metal than the back of the timing guides. This means that over time, the tensioner pin wore away at the back of the guide, especially during engine startup. My timing guides had significant wear at the back - the holes worn by the tensioner pin were ~1.8mm deep by the time I changed mine out at around 77k. This consequently had a significant effect on the tension of the timing chains, and on my engine these had gouged the aluminum around where the chains had run - that metal ended up somewhere, and any kind of metal in oil is generally bad, and it's possible that these wore the piston rings contributing to oil consumption. The replacement timing guides have a hardened surface at the back that is in contact with the tensioner pin to address this issue.
I've read a few theories now that the 5.0 Supercharged V8 engine possibly has inadequate baffling in the sump, which can lead to oil starvation when the oil level is low (which the car will not warn you about). Not sure if I agree with this but it seems to make sense. Mine certainly happened after I was giving it the beans.
Really the only way I can prevent this happening in the rebuilt engine is by being far more mindful about my oil level from week to week, and I'm also installing custom oil pressure/temperature gauges.
In my defense, the wiring turned out to be more complex than I thought
At some point I'll solder the wires into a proper connector but in the mean time both seats are working
EVERY single thing on my XFR works fine EXCEPT the passenger seat warmer. When I looked underneath to see if there was something obvious - I got a headache from all the siring so I understand 100%! So, my seat will be warm and my GF will remain sitting on the cold side!!
EVERY single thing on my XFR works fine EXCEPT the passenger seat warmer. When I looked underneath to see if there was something obvious - I got a headache from all the siring so I understand 100%! So, my seat will be warm and my GF will remain sitting on the cold side!!
Don't worry about the wiring, it's probably not that. Do a search on the forums, but in short, the heating/cooling units in the seats have a design flaw with the plastic flexible tubing that goes from the seat fans to the peltier heater/cooler - it gets stiff from all the heat and cracks. Once air leaks out the crack and there's insufficient airflow over the peltier heater it gets too hot and cuts out.
People have suggested that you can repair the piping to stop the air leaks but in my experience this hasn't worked and I've had to replace the entire unit (about $130 new online IIRC). My suspicion is that eventually the peltier heater burns out after repeated overheating.
The easy test for this is to turn the seat on heat - if you hear high seatsfans for a couple of seconds and then nothing, this is likely the issue.
You could also check the air filters for the fans (the one under the seat base is pretty easy to see, the one for the seat back requires you to remove the rear seat panel) but this is unlikely to be the problem.
EVERY single thing on my XFR works fine EXCEPT the passenger seat warmer. When I looked underneath to see if there was something obvious - I got a headache from all the siring so I understand 100%! So, my seat will be warm and my GF will remain sitting on the cold side!!
Most likely your problem has nothing to do with all that wiring. It's probably the air duct in the back of the seat had cracked up so much that little of the air from the fan mounted in the seat back is getting through to the heater/cooler element and the system is shutting itself down to protect the element.
To confirm: Take the filter cover off the lower seat fan so you can feel if the fan is moving. Turn on the seat heater, and check immediately to see if the fan is spinning. Wait a couple mins and then check if the fan is still spinning. If not, what I said is your problem. Warning for those that aren't very manly, you may cry a little bit from touching a moving fan with your bare fingers.
An Allisport intercooler radiator. It's sold as for the Jaguar F-Type but quite a bit cheaper than others I've seen - it still looks very well constructed, at least 2x as thick as the OEM radiator, and Allisport seem to be well-regarded in the Land Rover world.
Despite being sold for the F-Type the OEM part number is the same on the F-Type, XF, XJ, XK etc, so it's a direct drop-in replacement:
(By the way, I've got a better piece of silicone hose and clips on the way for that bottom joint, and I'll straighten the fins with a radiator comb...)
Just a quick update: drove her home from the shop today. She runs and drives great! Next thing to work on is cleaning the interior/exterior - it's been in the shop on and off for 2 years and it's filthy. Then I've got to get it booked into the dealer for the airbag change and an emissions-related ECU flash, yay California!
Then I can work on the bodywork and interior gauges
I thought with the SDD you could handle the airbag change and reset the event monitor?
Or does it require replacing the event monitor after an accident?
.
.
.
I thought with the SDD you could handle the airbag change and reset the event monitor?
Or does it require replacing the event monitor after an accident?
.
.
.
I would think the airbag change needs to be done officially, and its warrantied anyway, to register as having been carried out.. That is ofcourse if you are concerned about that.
I thought with the SDD you could handle the airbag change and reset the event monitor?
Or does it require replacing the event monitor after an accident?
.
.
.
No accident, but I'm due to get the airbag (s)? changed under the Takata recall program. Obviously this requires a physical swap of the airbags done by the dealer.
01-05-2019, 12:55 PM
