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My grey jag runs so much smoother and stronger after I hand cleaned the intake valves and ports.
Stupid question, but did you have to remove the heads to clean them or did you scrub and spray with the heads attached to the engine? Obviously I'd rather just take the intake manifold off as opposed to the heads.
Update
Well, today I found the cause of the metal in the oil - two spun conrod bearings. I wasn't too shocked when I found them because I'd dismantled pretty much everything else and found no problems.
The smoking gun - the results of a spun bearing
You can actually see the difference in profile on the crank journal where the bearing has spun.
Once I have the main bearing caps off I can get the crank off a machine shop. Oversized bearings are available for 0.25mm and 0.5mm over, so providing I don't need more than that grinding off the journals (and I can't think it would, despite there being a visible lip on the journal), it should be fine to rebuild. Then I'll get the block sent off to have the cylinders rehoned.
There used to be a shop known as 'Crankshaft Specialties', located in Memphis, TN. Their "claim to fame" was grinding crank journals, then hard chroming them back to OE diameter. I thought at one time, they were purchased by 'Comp Cams', however a quick search shows that a shop in Memphis is still operating under the name 'Crankshaft Specialties', but with poor customer feedback.
There used to be a shop known as 'Crankshaft Specialties', located in Memphis, TN. Their "claim to fame" was grinding crank journals, then hard chroming them back to OE diameter. I thought at one time, they were purchased by 'Comp Cams', however a quick search shows that a shop in Memphis is still operating under the name 'Crankshaft Specialties', but with poor customer feedback.
However, another search showed this:
speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31792
Thanks leadfoot - I've read a bit about this, although it seems a lot of the companies that used to do this no longer do because of the chemicals involved and our good friend the EPA.
I plan on taking the crank to a specialist close to me ASAP so they can give their opinion on the crank - my main concern at the moment is that conrod bearings for this engine are only available 0.5mm larger from the supplier I found, and my very rough micrometer measurements of the journal suggest that it might be right on the edge for that, so I'm concerned they may say it would have to be ground more than that (and it seems a lot of people claim if you have to grind more than that then the crank is basically done for and you need a new one).
If that's the case, then I think sourcing a replacement crank would be the biggest problem. Jaguar list and presumably sell them (not cheaply!) for the 4.2l V8, but they don't even list the crank (or any other other engine internals) for the 5.0.
I know there was an issue with some of the 2011 range rovers and faulty oil galley plugs (some call it an oil gallery plug). I think they used the same 5.0 engine. There was a bulletin written for it. It causes an oil leak right near the starter and drips down on the rear bell housing. Almost looks like the rear main seal is leaking. I can't find the service bulletin number right now, but it's out there.
Dave, Can you see if there is a oil galley plug on the block above/near the starter? If there is one (has a hex head on it), can you see if it is loose and take a picture of its location. In some early Range Rover blocks, they used Teflon on the plug. There is a bulletin to replace it with a new plug with red thread locker. I'm chasing an oil leak and wondering if that could be the culprit. Thanks
Dave, Can you see if there is a oil galley plug on the block above/near the starter? If there is one (has a hex head on it), can you see if it is loose and take a picture of its location. In some early Range Rover blocks, they used Teflon on the plug. There is a bulletin to replace it with a new plug with red thread locker. I'm chasing an oil leak and wondering if that could be the culprit. Thanks
Dave, Can you see if there is a oil galley plug on the block above/near the starter? If there is one (has a hex head on it), can you see if it is loose and take a picture of its location. In some early Range Rover blocks, they used Teflon on the plug. There is a bulletin to replace it with a new plug with red thread locker. I'm chasing an oil leak and wondering if that could be the culprit. Thanks
It was tight, and had red thread lock on it when I removed it. No sign of leaking from it either.
Found the SSM in this thread which had details of it along with an attached PDF. Replicated here for posterity - my plug looked exactly like the one in the PDF.
Reference: SSM49817 Models: New Range Rover, LR4, Range Rover Sport Title: 5.0 Cylinder Block Oil Gallery Plug Leak Category: Engine Last modified: 03-Nov-2011 00:00:00 Symptom: 401000 Oil System Concerns Content:
Issue:
Oil gallery plug leaks applicable to all derivatives of 5.0 gasoline engines. Action:
If an oil leak is evident at the back of the engine, please check for the presence of engine oil at the block plug as shown in the attached PDF file.
If an oil leak is confirmed from the plug please carry out an off torque value check (if possible) and remove the plug.
Please order a new plug (plug ½ Inch), part number LR008871. Prior to fitment of the new plug ensure the threads are free from oil/sealant contamination. Torque 40 Nm then rotate 180° ± 3°
NOTE - Please ONLY fit a RED plug as shown in the attached PDF file.
For replacement procedure please refer to TOPIx section 303-01: Engine – V8 5.0L Petrol > Remove and Installation > Cylinder Block Oil Gallery Plug Service Repair Operation Number
12.60.19 – Plug – Oil – renew – Range Rover - 0.50 hrs
12.60.19 – Plug – Oil – renew – Range Rover Sport - 1.60 hrs
12.60.19 – Plug – Oil – renew – Discovery 4/LR4 – 1.60 hrs
Please raise a Quality Report EPQR if this issue is seen post the following engine number - 11062010351
Dave,
How are things going?
If after you get the crankshaft polished and you find its a little on the small side ask your machine shop if they can do HVOF coating to build it back up.
Dave,
How are things going?
If after you get the crankshaft polished and you find its a little on the small side ask your machine shop if they can do HVOF coating to build it back up.
Hey fellow Brit by birth! Not a huge amount to update, I left my crank in the shop I'm working on the engine at for a while but the guy the shop owner was hoping would call by hasn't, so I've taken it back. However, I'm currently looking at just biting the bullet and sourcing a brand new crank from the UK, but as a backup, I'm going to take my old crank to a local specialist to see if it can be recovered.
I can't help but feel a new crank with new standard bearings is a better option at this point though, providing I can source them.
Jaguar do not list the crank, crank bearings, rods, rod bearings or other internal components as spare parts for the 5.0L in the JEPC.
Neither does Land Rover as far as I can tell.
You might be able to get them via a dealers service department, but they aren't a regular spare you can order through normal channels as far as I know.
03-09-2017, 10:33 AM
