Am I losing power or is it my imagination.
i bought a cheapy $20 OBD scanner from pepboys yesterday. reported 0 codes, which is good.
but i wonder if there is a huge difference between a $20 scanner and a $200 scanner. would the more expensive one actually work better?
but i wonder if there is a huge difference between a $20 scanner and a $200 scanner. would the more expensive one actually work better?
No, it's the actual intake valves. Deposits build up on them slowly as you put more miles on the car. So it's a slow effect of robbing power so you won't notice it since you drive the car every day.
You need to remove the intake manifold and clean them off. It's a very baked on tar-like substance, and I found it's best to use throttle body cleaner by letting it soak the valves and then scrub gently with a firm brush.
Not a fun job, but that's the downside of direct injection. You can google it to learn more.
I did it on my gray XF and it made a big difference in power.
You need to remove the intake manifold and clean them off. It's a very baked on tar-like substance, and I found it's best to use throttle body cleaner by letting it soak the valves and then scrub gently with a firm brush.
Not a fun job, but that's the downside of direct injection. You can google it to learn more.
I did it on my gray XF and it made a big difference in power.
Yep, literally thousands of codes can be generated without causing a CEL, a good/proper code reader will show most of them, although to see all of them in detail you need the proper SDD equipment.
I use an iCarsoft i930, picks up almost everything, see here: iCarsoft -Professional Multi System Scanner For LandRover / Jaguar / OBDII -i930 eBay
I use an iCarsoft i930, picks up almost everything, see here: iCarsoft -Professional Multi System Scanner For LandRover / Jaguar / OBDII -i930 eBay
Veteran Member
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Houston
How many miles on your car?
In these modern vehicles there are four different types of codes;
P - Powertrain
C - Chassis
B - Body
U - Network
For example if you have an ABS fault, that will have C codes, if you have an airbag fault, that will be B codes, and so on. But a little $20 generic scanner will not see these.
And of the powertrain codes, there are literally hundreds of manufacturer-specific codes that a generic scanner will not see.
ah I wasn't sure if it was part of the whole thing.. pushing close to 100k now
Veteran Member
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From: Houston
Mine were pretty gummed up at 50k miles. I have a thread on here somewhere with pics showing the before and after. My car also idles smoother after the cleaning. Clean you MAF and throttle body while you are at it..
could that be why I feel a rumble / shake while at idle? Is cleaning the maf and throttle bottle big jobs?
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Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Adelaide, South Australia
The MAF sensors are a doddle to clean, just get a spray can of MAF sensor cleaner (I use CRC brand).
Each sensor is held on with a pair of Torx screws (T20 IIRC), just undo those screws, disconnect the wiring plugs, then take the sensors to your workbench and spray the wires (two bits on each sensor) 5 or 6 times, allow a minute or so to dry, then refit.
Each sensor is held on with a pair of Torx screws (T20 IIRC), just undo those screws, disconnect the wiring plugs, then take the sensors to your workbench and spray the wires (two bits on each sensor) 5 or 6 times, allow a minute or so to dry, then refit.