Hello Community,

I've observed many different boards for years and have never posted on any board ever. Please be kind. Frankly I learned early to use the search function and almost always find that my question or problem have already been resolved.

A few months ago I bought a 2011 XF Supercharged and I'm ready to start modding it.

I am doing a Eurocharged tune & pulley, TCP intake, removal of center muffler and resonators, & electric exhaust cutouts. I have all the parts and wanted to get a baseline dyno. (my first dyno test also). None of the mods are installed yet. I will do another test after the pulley and intake install and another test after the exhaust mods.

2011 Jaguar XF Supercharged 85,000 miles
Stock except K&N Filters

Pre-tune

Dyno Shop 1, Dynojet 248X

SAE, Smoothing 3

Dynamic On, DSC Off, Sport mode, Paddle shift to 4th Gear

Run 1 no tune
-445 HP
-406 ft/lb torque
These #'s seem high to me for a Stock XF S/C rated at 470 crank HP.
He said my AFR is dangerously lean (13.6 - 14.6 under 3000 RPM)

Run 2 no tune
-He stopped the run due to concern with the lean AFR.
I reviewed some other dyno charts on supercharged Jags and saw similar AFR results. Eurocharged and a few other people I asked said direct injection can run high #'s like this and it's nothing to worry about. Is that correct?

Dyno Shop 2, Dynojet 248
-Side note: This shops dyno is called the heartbreaker locally as it often shows #’s 10 –15% less than other dynos in the area.

SAE, Smoothing 5
Dynamic On, DSC Off, Sport mode, Paddle shift to 4th Gear

Run 1 no tune
-453 HP
-412 ft/lb torque

Run 2 no tune (not on report)
-455 HP
-414 ft/lb torque

Applied Eurocharged tune while still on the dyno. 20 minute cool off with fans. No other mods completed yet.

Run 3 w/tune
-468 HP
-466 ft/lb torque

Run 4 w/tune
-516 HP
-470 ft/lb torque

Run 5 w/tune (not on report)
-464 HP
-463 ft/lb torque

I only gained 15 HP, but 54 ft/lb torque with the tune.

My pre tune #'s were great. Why so little HP gain?

What can cause the run 4 w/tune anomaly?

Dyno sheets with notes attached.

Thank you,
Darren

 

Just wait...Most likely the XFR is going through adaptation. It took my tune 4-5 days of aggressive driving to get the power I was expecting.

 

I hope so. I was thinking that the ecu wouldn't need to adapt since its a new file and the gains would be instant but I don't know. I'll have another set of mods completed this week and will do another dyno run.

 

I see a 63hp gain. Your ECM (Engine Control Module) is seeing (like only the 2 rear wheels turning) or hearing something (like detonation, low fuel) and killing your high end boost and timing. That first run made after the tune was on a clean ECM memory so you got good #. As bmcinsd said driving can reset it, also putting more gas in some cars (like my LS Camaro) will reset it and do your dyno runs on at least a 3/4 tank of good gas, racing unleaded added to regular premium is good. Make sure you have all of the electronic nannies turned off too!

 

Bigwill, thanks for the reply. My first post tune/clean ECU was run 3 at 468, then 516 then back down to 464. Shouldn't the first run been the highest since it was the clean ecu? I did the test in sport, dynamic on, DSC off, paddle to 4th, roll in the throttle so it doesn't down shift. After the first run dynamic mode is inoperable plus a slew of other warnings. Next test I'll have more gas. I think I was at 1/4 tank. Side note, I was installing the TCP intake today and broke the adaptor for the resevoir bleed just above the throttle body so no more driving until Monday after a run to the dealer parts store. Hopefully they have it in stock.

 

Gotcha, but again my bet is your ECM is seeing or hearing somthing you can't. Yes dyno runs should be repeatable, but these modern cars with all the electronic nannies make that almost impossible, also the dyno operator needs to know how to see issues during, and then reset the ECM before each run.

 

How do I reset the ECM before each run? I have a bluetooth code reader and Torque Pro. I tried to clear the codes on my way home after the first tests at the first shop and it didn't clear the faults but driving did clear them.

How do I see what is limiting my performance?

Thanks

 

Honestly those are both questions an expert dyno guy should be able to answer for you. But if he is letting you do dyno runs with pending codes your getting took.

 

I'm not getting codes that I know of. I'm just getting the standard faults from the front wheels not turning. E-Diff, Dynamic, ABS, etc.

I guess I'll see what #'s are real after my next mods are installed and I go to the dyno again.

Thanks,

 

All of my performance mods are now complete. I need to get some miles on it for the ECM to adapt and I'll do another set of dyno tests next week. I'm very happy with the sound and flexibility of the electric exhaust cutouts. Silent stock to amazing straight pipe with the push of a button. I'm interested in the dyno test with them open vs closed.

 

That's some bling...what type of cut outs are you using?

 

Cheap Chinese from Amazon. I figured it this way. The "Brands" cost $400 - $500 and are likely made in China as well. This set with wired switch and remote was $175. The build looks solid. If the butterfly sticks or motor stops in a year I can replace it for $35 in about 5 minutes. I can replace a lot of these before I get close to the price of the others. If they turn out to be the weak link in the system I can always replace these with the brands for about $100 each and still be ahead. Time will tell but I figured it was worth rolling the dice.

I'll try to get some video of the sound but cell phones just don't do it justice.

 

Got it done, ready to RUN!

 

UPDATE:

I've completed my mods and ran another set of dyno tests with more confusing results.

Mods, TCP Intake, K&N Filters, 1.5 Pulley, center muffler and resonator delete, X-pipe, exhaust cutouts (just before the mufflers) Driven hard for a week, 100's of miles, exhaust open 90% of the time.


Best stock run before tuning. 454 HP, 412 TQ
Best tuned run before mods. 516 HP, 470 TQ

Run 2, cutouts open, 490 HP, 454 TQ (this was the best run with the exhaust open)
Run 3 cutouts CLOSED, 514 HP, 473 TQ
Run 5, cutouts CLOSED, 497 HP, 467 TQ (we were very hot and definitely heat soaked by this run)

Other runs were done with similar results both open and closed.

We noted a few anomalies.
No gains with mods, 25 HP loss with the exhaust cutouts open, AFR changed drastically.

Before mods it had a very consistent AFR of 15 down to 11. AFR didn't start dropping until 4750 RPMs and didn't drop below 12 until 6500 RPM redline.

Post mods. cutouts open. AFR of 15 down to 10. Drops to 12.5 at 3250 RPMs and really richens up at 5250 RPMs dropping off the chart below 10 at 5750 RPMs.

Post mods. cutouts closed. AFR of 15 down to 10. Doesn't start dropping until 4750 RPMs and then trails down to 10 at 6500 RPM redline.

Questions:
Why no gains with mods?
Why 25 HP loss with exhaust open?
Why the drastically different post mods AFR? Why so rich?
Any suggestions. Anything that can be done with the tune?

Any help is appreciated. I feel I have some more power in here and that I'm just missing something.

Big Will, I know I need to find someone that can do data logging. I don't know enough myself and haven't found a shop that can do this yet. I went back to this shop so I would have an apples to apples comparison. I'm going to go to another place next week and hopefully they can monitor and see if I have something else going on, detonation, etc. I did have a full tank of fuel this time.

Post Mods:

Pre mods

 

Well it could be your open pipes are killing your exhaust exit velocity = less cylinder scavenging = lower hp when running open pipes.
You could have a faulty oxygen sensor. Torque can read O2 transient voltage (up, down numbers) rudimentally, look at the responses from bank 1 O2 sensor 1, and bank 2 O2 sensor 1, those would be your 2 upstream O2 sensors. See if either one is significantly slower in responses.
o2-sensor-testing

 

I appreciate the direction. I'll check out the O2 sensors. The link is a good read. I need to read through it again to hopefully understand it better.

 

BigWill, I think you found my problem. Bank 2 sensor 1 doesnt show at all with torque. I wonder if it was bumped or unplugged when they were doing the exhaust mods. Or, it appears sensor 1 might be connected under the hood and maybe I bumped it installing the TCP intake. Does anyone know where it connects under the hood. I can find a picture showing the connection location of just about every Jaguar except an XF.

Odd, shouldn't it throw a code though?

This could answer why the AFR was so different from pre mods to post mods. Maybe not caused by the mods but an O2 sensor??

 

Well Your up stream O2 sensors tell your computer what to do, the down stream O2 sensors turn on your check engine light if they sniff too much fuel or oxygen. And yes if bad they should throw a fault, but not always, I once pulled an O2 sensor off my G35 and the whole sensor end was gone, I had no faults? I'd change BOTH upstream O2 sensors (if you shop part number they can be found for as little $60 ea.) if it's not a simple bumped plug issue, drive it for a few days then make another dyno run. Good luck

 

Your O2 sensor plug isn't going to be by the front of the motor (intake). The sensor is going to be in the exhaust manifold before the precat near the back of the motor. You may have to be under the car to get at it.

 

I found them and they are plugged in. Now today neither upstream shows any reading with torque. I'm going to a shop tomorrow that can hopefully shed some light on this. I'm also suspicious that I may not have the TCP intake sealed perfectly. Could that cause me to run rich?

Thanks,