Hmmm... what year? On my 2010 XFR the display immediately shuts off on power down and there is no heartbeat.

I'm the 3rd owner so not sure what reflashes have been done to the system.

Cheers,

- Will

 

My stuff turns off immediately as well when I hit the "Stop" button. '11 XFR.

Darin

 

What you describe is I think what happens when you've been driving the car, then you park the car, turn it off, open the door and walk away without locking (automatic re-lock is deactivated on my car).

If you later come back to the car, open the door (e.g., to get something out of the console), then close the door without re-locking, the screen stays on for around 15 minutes.

Mine is a 2010 XF Premium.

 

I think you'll find that the ignition switch stays live for up to 30 minutes even if you think you have switched everything off. My 2009 certainly does.

 

Everything shuts down after about 30 seconds in my car even if it is not locked. I can take it to the dealer and have the auto alarm set after a pre-determind time, but not to auto lock it.

 

Sounds like they changed things a bit on 2012 models compared to 2010 models.

On the auto-lock feature, did you check you vehicle settings under "security?" Mine has two options, auto alarm set, and auto-relock. I have both turned off.

 

Good point - I rarely drive less than 7 miles, usually 10 or more.

 

Setting the auto alarm will enable the alarm after exiting the car after a determined time, but not lock it. The auto-relock will only lock the car when the remote is used to unlock the car and after a minute it will relock the car if no doors or the boot is not opened.

 

In 2 1/2 years, I have never locked my car in the garage, I also remove the key far from range. I have found that the system stay alive if it can sense the key. Also when I go back to car after a while, I always tap the dome lights to off and I quickly hit the radio on/off switch which turns off the screen saver. When I would alow the dome lights and screen saver to go off on their own combine with auto headlights being on, I get the low battery sign on my display when I restart the car. Also short trips will kill the battery in these cars because the recharge time doesn't catch up with electronic drain time.

 

This is pretty much my conclusion. And then, after a short trip, if the car sits unlocked in the garage for 2-3 days and you open/close the door or trunk a few times to get something out, you get dead battery. Today, I tested the battery voltage at 12.31 volts after the car was used. Later, that day, after opening the trunk lid again to test the voltage, it dropped to 11.97 volts just because opening the trunk activated the screen saver and who knows what else. I think with a new battery, I would have had a higher initial voltage and the drop would probably have been less.

I think I'm going to get a free battery test done locally to see what they say, and then possibly visit another Jaguar dealer.

 

I think I'm going to get a free battery test done locally to see what they say, and then possibly visit another Jaguar dealer.[/QUOTE]



Hey Long Islander,
I have found that some times those battery test are not proof positive with batteries. On another car that I owed, I had the battery tested twice and both times it passed. But when the car keep needing to be jump started every morning. I took the battery out and switched with my wives car. Guess what? My car started the following morning and her's didn't. I purchased one of those high amp 6 pack style batteries from pepboys and it last the extra 4 years until I traded it in for the Jag. I was told that if you drive the car for long period of time before the test, even a weak cell maynot show up on the test. Just food for thought...

 

Useful information because I drove to Autozone, which is 20 miles, 13 of them highway. It tested 99% according to the testing device. I was thinking of going to another dealer, but now I figure why bother? I'll wait until it happens again and if it does, then I'll buy a Duralast group H-8 AGM battery, which has better specs than the Varta battery that came from the factory.

 

General rule of thumb is to replace the battery if the load test results in less than 9 volts remaining from a fully charged battery.

A drop of a volt or two is not relevant.

The load test is the only useful test as the battery needs enough spare amperage to start the car after a stall.

 

The battery location is STUPID in the JAG - Plus when you are getting a jump you need to close the boot to turn off the boot lamp. I mean who designs stupid stuff lick that ONLY jag. Luv my car but hate some of the daft people do at Jag.

 

There are worse places to stick a battery, on the Viper it is behind the left rear wheel well and on the Oldsmobile Aurora it is under the rear seat. The trunk is a common place when people are looking to relocate some weight.

Just be thankful you do not have to take a tire off to change your battery.

 

You don't need to close the trunk. There's a power save feature that turns the light off after a few mins.

 

On second thoughts, the positive side the Boot is if your parked in the garage or in crowded carpark. I was at the airport and it would be difficult to do if it was in any other place. It just looked not classy taking out the boot mat and luggage on the floor.

 

The cheapest fix that you can try is to replace the battery. You can do that yourself and is simple with no labor cost. Just simple labor at the dealer cost more than a battery. Nine out of ten times, that is the solution to a dead or weak battery problem. An Exide H-8 AGM battery is probably the best replacement battery right now in my opinion. I hate the hassle of having a battery issue, so I normally replace mine every two years no matter what. I then use the old battery for some of my other hot rod projects.

 

Hey….does your new EXIDE H-8 AGM have a reserve capacity of 170 ?

 

Yep according to the spec sheet, it exceeds what your stock battery has as far as cca and reserve capacity.