Best tune and pulley for XFR
#1
#3
damn! What was that against ? Is there any downside to adding these tunes ? At 100k miles is it safe ?
#5
I, as well, am running the Eurocharged pulley and tune, but with the Mina intake tube and muffler delete similar to Paramount performance axle back. Already have the Bosh 010 SC pump and waiting on a front mount heat exchanger so I can also add the Eurotoys lower pulley and gain some more boost!
I need to get mine to the track and see how she runs. I've only had her a few months.
I need to get mine to the track and see how she runs. I've only had her a few months.
#6
$799 plus shipping for the package currently
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webshark (02-20-2018)
#9
Also, those are massive gains of 65whp and 70wtrq for a simple tune and pulley. The Delta between stock and tuned is more important than the overall number since all dyno's read differently.
#10
Asking this question, you will get many opinions, and most likely you will only find people that have only tried one company’s product.
Our cars have so many variables, ECU learning periods, fuel quality, dynometers that don’t read the same or they talk about wheel HP or “corrected” HP that getting accurate info is next to impossible.
Even getting 1/4 mile example times are subject to air temp, traction levels, altitude, and driver talent.
What I am getting at is what are they advertising? If they say you will get 40HP no matter what model you have, then ask them why.
If you have a 475hp model and they will only give you 40hp (515 total) but someone with the 510hp model and they also get the same 40hp (550 total), ask them what the difference is since the cars are exactly the same except for the tune.
If the company you are enterested in can give a 550hp R-S owner a total of 600hp after the tune, then they should be able to give the base 475hp owner the same end result of 600hp.
You should also inquire about if the tuner also adjusts the transmission tune or if it is only the ECU?
Our cars have so many variables, ECU learning periods, fuel quality, dynometers that don’t read the same or they talk about wheel HP or “corrected” HP that getting accurate info is next to impossible.
Even getting 1/4 mile example times are subject to air temp, traction levels, altitude, and driver talent.
What I am getting at is what are they advertising? If they say you will get 40HP no matter what model you have, then ask them why.
If you have a 475hp model and they will only give you 40hp (515 total) but someone with the 510hp model and they also get the same 40hp (550 total), ask them what the difference is since the cars are exactly the same except for the tune.
If the company you are enterested in can give a 550hp R-S owner a total of 600hp after the tune, then they should be able to give the base 475hp owner the same end result of 600hp.
You should also inquire about if the tuner also adjusts the transmission tune or if it is only the ECU?
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GritsNCornbread (06-13-2018)
#11
Eurocharged hands down. My XFR ran high 11s with their tune and pulley only on street tires. They are now working their magic on my XJ and so far so good.
#13
Asking this question, you will get many opinions, and most likely you will only find people that have only tried one company’s product.
Our cars have so many variables, ECU learning periods, fuel quality, dynometers that don’t read the same or they talk about wheel HP or “corrected” HP that getting accurate info is next to impossible.
Even getting 1/4 mile example times are subject to air temp, traction levels, altitude, and driver talent.
What I am getting at is what are they advertising? If they say you will get 40HP no matter what model you have, then ask them why.
If you have a 475hp model and they will only give you 40hp (515 total) but someone with the 510hp model and they also get the same 40hp (550 total), ask them what the difference is since the cars are exactly the same except for the tune.
If the company you are enterested in can give a 550hp R-S owner a total of 600hp after the tune, then they should be able to give the base 475hp owner the same end result of 600hp.
You should also inquire about if the tuner also adjusts the transmission tune or if it is only the ECU?
Our cars have so many variables, ECU learning periods, fuel quality, dynometers that don’t read the same or they talk about wheel HP or “corrected” HP that getting accurate info is next to impossible.
Even getting 1/4 mile example times are subject to air temp, traction levels, altitude, and driver talent.
What I am getting at is what are they advertising? If they say you will get 40HP no matter what model you have, then ask them why.
If you have a 475hp model and they will only give you 40hp (515 total) but someone with the 510hp model and they also get the same 40hp (550 total), ask them what the difference is since the cars are exactly the same except for the tune.
If the company you are enterested in can give a 550hp R-S owner a total of 600hp after the tune, then they should be able to give the base 475hp owner the same end result of 600hp.
You should also inquire about if the tuner also adjusts the transmission tune or if it is only the ECU?
#14
#15
#16
That is what the dyno measures is Torque, and Horsepower is simply calculated based on RPM (and a standard conversion number, 5252 (for lb-ft and HP) is used). So you either meant to ask for Ignition pickup or RPM pickup, as the X-Axis will typically have RPM, others that cant succesfully get a RPM pickup, end up plotting Torque and HP against speed, which isn't ideal for varying reasons.
Best way for RPM pickup is to simply using a strobe light pickup, and simply marking the crank pulley as and identifier, and recognize that that pulley will have a 1:1 ratio with what your engine is doing, dyno type must be able to accept this type of signal back
Another way is to simply calibrate off of wheel speed in conjunction with engine rpm. This will depend on type of dyno, but dyno will ask you to hold revs at 2000rpms while in the gear you are dyno'ing the car in. then it will ask you to hold the car at 4000rpms again in the same gear, and based on that the dyno will be able to back calculate what theoretical rpm you will be at based on your wheel speed (assuming you don't go and change gears).
Lastly on older cars, you could simply tap into the coil line that ran over to the distributor, but with our cars being coil on plug their might be a way to do it off of cylinder 1 coil, but I would be worried about having a dyno operator that couldn't figure out either of the above options first to all of sudden start touching the wiring under my hood.
The other thing you could have meant is boost (and not torque or rpm, like I originally assumed), which I don't think anyone has successfully managed to do (on our 5L Supercharged V8's), as I haven't seen any of these dyno curves with a boost pressure signal. I would be very interested in this, we tried a couple of the lines that run on the left hand side of the superchager, but no luck, as we only got a vacuum signal with no pressure/ boost
#17
I assume you meant to ask about "RPM Pickup" and not "Torque"?
That is what the dyno measures is Torque, and Horsepower is simply calculated based on RPM (and a standard conversion number, 5252 (for lb-ft and HP) is used). So you either meant to ask for Ignition pickup or RPM pickup, as the X-Axis will typically have RPM, others that cant succesfully get a RPM pickup, end up plotting Torque and HP against speed, which isn't ideal for varying reasons.
Best way for RPM pickup is to simply using a strobe light pickup, and simply marking the crank pulley as and identifier, and recognize that that pulley will have a 1:1 ratio with what your engine is doing, dyno type must be able to accept this type of signal back
Another way is to simply calibrate off of wheel speed in conjunction with engine rpm. This will depend on type of dyno, but dyno will ask you to hold revs at 2000rpms while in the gear you are dyno'ing the car in. then it will ask you to hold the car at 4000rpms again in the same gear, and based on that the dyno will be able to back calculate what theoretical rpm you will be at based on your wheel speed (assuming you don't go and change gears).
Lastly on older cars, you could simply tap into the coil line that ran over to the distributor, but with our cars being coil on plug their might be a way to do it off of cylinder 1 coil, but I would be worried about having a dyno operator that couldn't figure out either of the above options first to all of sudden start touching the wiring under my hood.
The other thing you could have meant is boost (and not torque or rpm, like I originally assumed), which I don't think anyone has successfully managed to do (on our 5L Supercharged V8's), as I haven't seen any of these dyno curves with a boost pressure signal. I would be very interested in this, we tried a couple of the lines that run on the left hand side of the superchager, but no luck, as we only got a vacuum signal with no pressure/ boost
That is what the dyno measures is Torque, and Horsepower is simply calculated based on RPM (and a standard conversion number, 5252 (for lb-ft and HP) is used). So you either meant to ask for Ignition pickup or RPM pickup, as the X-Axis will typically have RPM, others that cant succesfully get a RPM pickup, end up plotting Torque and HP against speed, which isn't ideal for varying reasons.
Best way for RPM pickup is to simply using a strobe light pickup, and simply marking the crank pulley as and identifier, and recognize that that pulley will have a 1:1 ratio with what your engine is doing, dyno type must be able to accept this type of signal back
Another way is to simply calibrate off of wheel speed in conjunction with engine rpm. This will depend on type of dyno, but dyno will ask you to hold revs at 2000rpms while in the gear you are dyno'ing the car in. then it will ask you to hold the car at 4000rpms again in the same gear, and based on that the dyno will be able to back calculate what theoretical rpm you will be at based on your wheel speed (assuming you don't go and change gears).
Lastly on older cars, you could simply tap into the coil line that ran over to the distributor, but with our cars being coil on plug their might be a way to do it off of cylinder 1 coil, but I would be worried about having a dyno operator that couldn't figure out either of the above options first to all of sudden start touching the wiring under my hood.
The other thing you could have meant is boost (and not torque or rpm, like I originally assumed), which I don't think anyone has successfully managed to do (on our 5L Supercharged V8's), as I haven't seen any of these dyno curves with a boost pressure signal. I would be very interested in this, we tried a couple of the lines that run on the left hand side of the superchager, but no luck, as we only got a vacuum signal with no pressure/ boost
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XF and XFR ( X250 )
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