Burning smell inside cabin on hard acceleration
#1
Burning smell inside cabin on hard acceleration
vehicle: 2012 XF portfolio 5.0 NA
I have been recently getting this weird burning smell inside the Cabin at full throttle or close to full throttle accelerations. Anyone have had or has this problem?
What to look for when diagnosing this sort of issue? It goes away after a minute or two maybe less if I roll the windows down but it appears again when I give it another hard acceleration.
Best I can describe it is burning oil smell, though some say it is more like burning rubber.
Any help?
I have been recently getting this weird burning smell inside the Cabin at full throttle or close to full throttle accelerations. Anyone have had or has this problem?
What to look for when diagnosing this sort of issue? It goes away after a minute or two maybe less if I roll the windows down but it appears again when I give it another hard acceleration.
Best I can describe it is burning oil smell, though some say it is more like burning rubber.
Any help?
#3
I could not tell if you were serious or just having fun.
I get a burning smell under hard excelleration, and also some crazy, loud screeching from the boot area.
Crazy thing is the rear tires are wearing much faster than the fronts as well.
I wish someone would tell me how to fix this issue...
I get a burning smell under hard excelleration, and also some crazy, loud screeching from the boot area.
Crazy thing is the rear tires are wearing much faster than the fronts as well.
I wish someone would tell me how to fix this issue...
#4
I could not tell if you were serious or just having fun.
I get a burning smell under hard excelleration, and also some crazy, loud screeching from the boot area.
Crazy thing is the rear tires are wearing much faster than the fronts as well.
I wish someone would tell me how to fix this issue...
I get a burning smell under hard excelleration, and also some crazy, loud screeching from the boot area.
Crazy thing is the rear tires are wearing much faster than the fronts as well.
I wish someone would tell me how to fix this issue...
Why would you think I wasn't serious? Nothing sounds sarcastic in my thread as far as what I wrote.
But to answer your question about the screeching sound and the tires. Check your muffler bearings and fill your blinker fluid. Hope that fixes your issue.
Last edited by croco; 08-01-2017 at 08:04 PM.
#5
#7
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I vote for a hairline crack in one of the exhaust manifolds or cat converters which is then letting exhaust fumes into the car, but only noticeable under hard acceleration in summer.
I had a similar problem on a car many years ago, I spent months trying to track it down, and my exhaust specialist finally found it by unhooking the exhaust from the after-market extractors he had installed and poking a tiny camera up inside the flexible joint just aft of the extractor collector, where he found a hairline crack in the pipe inside the flexible joint.
I had a similar problem on a car many years ago, I spent months trying to track it down, and my exhaust specialist finally found it by unhooking the exhaust from the after-market extractors he had installed and poking a tiny camera up inside the flexible joint just aft of the extractor collector, where he found a hairline crack in the pipe inside the flexible joint.
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croco (08-04-2017)
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#9
Here is an update on my problem.
So as I stated in the beginning the burning oil smell was noticeable under hard acceleration. I never attempted to go Full throttle more than once a day so the smell did appear every-time I went wide open throttle.
Last night I decided to take it to a toll road where there was no traffic. Opened it a few times all the way to the speed limiter. First run the burning oil smell came inside the cabin right away. 2nd, 3rd and 4th full throttle no smells at all. I turned on my AC without the latched circulation to kinda force the air to come out from the engine bay side but no smell what so ever.
I did a fifth hard acceleration, redlining it in 2nd 3rd gear and then pulled over immediately (didn't shut the car off) after the acceleration attempts and popped the hood to see if I was gonna notice any smoke and burning smell or glaring red exhaust manifold or Cats. NOTHING!!!
Went back inside the car while it was running and I turned the temp from 68 degrees F to full blast heater (HI) and I noticed the smell coming again. Now I am even more confused lol.
Really don't know if this is a heater problem or engine oil problem.
Anyone had heater associated smell before? Someone recommended PCV and ventilation lines.
So as I stated in the beginning the burning oil smell was noticeable under hard acceleration. I never attempted to go Full throttle more than once a day so the smell did appear every-time I went wide open throttle.
Last night I decided to take it to a toll road where there was no traffic. Opened it a few times all the way to the speed limiter. First run the burning oil smell came inside the cabin right away. 2nd, 3rd and 4th full throttle no smells at all. I turned on my AC without the latched circulation to kinda force the air to come out from the engine bay side but no smell what so ever.
I did a fifth hard acceleration, redlining it in 2nd 3rd gear and then pulled over immediately (didn't shut the car off) after the acceleration attempts and popped the hood to see if I was gonna notice any smoke and burning smell or glaring red exhaust manifold or Cats. NOTHING!!!
Went back inside the car while it was running and I turned the temp from 68 degrees F to full blast heater (HI) and I noticed the smell coming again. Now I am even more confused lol.
Really don't know if this is a heater problem or engine oil problem.
Anyone had heater associated smell before? Someone recommended PCV and ventilation lines.
#10
I vote for a hairline crack in one of the exhaust manifolds or cat converters which is then letting exhaust fumes into the car, but only noticeable under hard acceleration in summer.
I had a similar problem on a car many years ago, I spent months trying to track it down, and my exhaust specialist finally found it by unhooking the exhaust from the after-market extractors he had installed and poking a tiny camera up inside the flexible joint just aft of the extractor collector, where he found a hairline crack in the pipe inside the flexible joint.
I had a similar problem on a car many years ago, I spent months trying to track it down, and my exhaust specialist finally found it by unhooking the exhaust from the after-market extractors he had installed and poking a tiny camera up inside the flexible joint just aft of the extractor collector, where he found a hairline crack in the pipe inside the flexible joint.
My vote is on the cats as well
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croco (08-25-2017)
#11
Thanks to everyone for helping me troubleshoot this issue. I have fixed it!!
It was both catalytic converters went bad. Surprising since the vehicle has 55k miles on the clock (2012 XF portfolio 5.0 NA). Federal law would allow me to go after Jag for another set of cats but I took them out and did an ECU tune. My car now feels day and night better than what it used to be and runs much stronger. Still trying to fix the idle surging issue but wish me luck.
Again,, million thanks to all the amazing members on this forum.
Sam
It was both catalytic converters went bad. Surprising since the vehicle has 55k miles on the clock (2012 XF portfolio 5.0 NA). Federal law would allow me to go after Jag for another set of cats but I took them out and did an ECU tune. My car now feels day and night better than what it used to be and runs much stronger. Still trying to fix the idle surging issue but wish me luck.
Again,, million thanks to all the amazing members on this forum.
Sam
#14
Yes had a performance shop do custom bent pipes to replace the cats.
Pros:
Better gas mileage, smoother idling, less heat (cooling fans actually kick in later now), much much better low load throttle performance and top end performance is amazing as well.
Cons:
Fuel smell out of the exhaust, takes longer than usual to warm up the car in the morning. Used to take a minute for idle to settle, now it takes about two minutes.
I think it is a must do if you don't care about the fuel smell
Pros:
Better gas mileage, smoother idling, less heat (cooling fans actually kick in later now), much much better low load throttle performance and top end performance is amazing as well.
Cons:
Fuel smell out of the exhaust, takes longer than usual to warm up the car in the morning. Used to take a minute for idle to settle, now it takes about two minutes.
I think it is a must do if you don't care about the fuel smell
#15
i have the same problems on my 2011 supersport. It only happens when I put it in track mode and turn off the traction control and dsc and put the gearbox in sport. I get the smell when I'm pulling off in 1st leaving 11s on the road and driving like a maniac redlining all the way up.
Glad you found out the problem as I could not find anything in the engine bay but the cat converter was poorly welded and has 2 tiny leaks so I wonder if that causes issues.
I never had the problem at all until I uprated the ECU to 575 hp and got it remapped to 630 and added a better supercharger pulley and cold air intakes to get 675hp. If anyone has any suggestions to get it to 700 let me know. I'd like to get the 0 to 60 below 3 seconds.
Glad you found out the problem as I could not find anything in the engine bay but the cat converter was poorly welded and has 2 tiny leaks so I wonder if that causes issues.
I never had the problem at all until I uprated the ECU to 575 hp and got it remapped to 630 and added a better supercharger pulley and cold air intakes to get 675hp. If anyone has any suggestions to get it to 700 let me know. I'd like to get the 0 to 60 below 3 seconds.
#16
I never had the problem at all until I uprated the ECU to 575 hp and got it remapped to 630 and added a better supercharger pulley and cold air intakes to get 675hp. If anyone has any suggestions to get it to 700 let me know. I'd like to get the 0 to 60 below 3 seconds.
Last edited by davetibbs; 02-28-2019 at 01:00 AM.
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#17
#18
Yeah, I'm more than happy to be proven wrong (in fact I'd be delighted if someone had been able to genuinely get that power out of their engine with those mods), but I suspect that someone's been pretty economical with the truth when giving you those numbers. As restrictive as the intake system is (and it's not that restrictive), and I'm sure there's plenty of tuning room in the factory map, but for a tuner to claim a reliable gain of +165hp over stock with those mods is close to claiming superhuman tuning powers, so I'd take those figures with a pinch of salt.
But here's the thing - if you're happy with the way it drives for the money you paid for it, then I guess that's what really matters.
Can you share more about the cold air intake setup? Interested to see what you've done.
But here's the thing - if you're happy with the way it drives for the money you paid for it, then I guess that's what really matters.
Can you share more about the cold air intake setup? Interested to see what you've done.