No speed change. It was happening before and after EGR change. Haven't done air path setup, might do over the weekend. Planning BCM tomorrow... Strangely , idle speed is perfectly steady , shows 900rpm, but diagnostisc show 775rpm. Work in progress XD

 

Hi Phil,

I and my mate did BCM today, eeprom flash. Everything else was already updated with SDD. All good now. Then we disconnected battery without procedure and even played with terminals XD. All good. I tried air path 3 x but it failed. Once it asked for 70C engine temp, then it asked for 10C, don't know which was was correct. I will try again on a hot engine and revert back to you when done.

 

Glad to hear you have working washers / rear wiper again.
Did you recover your eeprom from dflash?
If not did you use the image from the post I linked, with your VIN edited in?
( I only ask as so far no one has confirmed that that image works - I guess some folk loose interest in the forum too quick to tell us of their success once their car works! )

 

We wiped eeprom completely, and mate found eeprom dump from same (year) car he did some time ago but wasn't sure if it works (we had nothing to lose), then vin edit. Everything after was done with SDD then. I actually now created a VM Win 7 Pro with v164 and I am now downloading like 60-80Gb calibration and other files for everything sdd supports... It is 29726 files to be exact... Then I will make SDD and off line VM machine on USB stick so I can run it anywhere. Only thing I do not have is engineering mode, looks for some pass code I don't have.

When i am done downloading and completing VM, I can share VBF folder with all files downloaded, but need some cloud space / link for upload. Work in progress, next stop is A/C not blowing cold despite there is no leaks but low pressure valve shows high pressure, and high pressure reads low pressure... DPS or something, we will see...

 

Phil,
Any chance you have CFF / Seed calculator? I have everything but that.
Thx

 

Hi kult,
what's a CFF?
( or is that a typo and you're looking for a CCF tool for the later cars? )

I was lucky enough not to need SDD when I did my car, I just used a BDM programmer and recovered the eeeprom from dflash then everything jumped back to life, so you're probably way ahead of me on that front, my knowledge of programming modules in SDD just comes from the many threads I've read online ( just in case I ever need them )

I've recollection of seeing a post that there was a python based engineering code generator on github, so maybe worth a search there.

I came across this https://github.com/mntsss/JLR_config_editor do you have any idea what a VBF parameter is, or why you'd want to modify them?

 

Sorry, CCF, not CFF Somehow, SDD let me update cluster and map keys despite corrupted BCM, that was odd too, however, all modules are not up to date, used SDD v164 with 50GB+ calibration and updated files downloaded, so no internet needed ;-) I actually found python script and ran it, code works, however, SDD does not light up yellow / amber at the bottom,but seems to work (I think, need more research and practice).

Vbf are the files I downloaded via SDD, 50GB+ for all cars listed. For XF I think it was like 3-4GB. Files have vbf extension.

I wanted to see what CCF has and to enable horn as part of alarm system because alarm is very quiet. Enabled it but haven't tested yet. There are so many options and I have so little time this week to go through everything. Also, I am not sure about few options etc. I am new to XF so don't know much, what my portfolio has or does not have, like air suspension etc. Still learning... Wish cars were as easy S500 in 90s ..

 

I think I recall reading you can update stuff without a engineering code, you just can't reprogram it at the same version.
Ah but if you edited the CCF it must have worked, maybe your screens not tall enough to show everything? ( i.e. a scroll bar you didn't notice )

The battery is probably failing in your alarm sounder if it's very quiet. I just replaced the sounder on my car a few months ago, as it was very faint.

As it's a sportbrake it'll have rear air suspension. Lots of info about it at https://www.jaginfo.org/threads/spor...cement.112484/

 

I scrolled down many things, but there is so many things I did not want to rush and mess up...After the battery indicent I am extra careful and paranoid at the same time ;-)
I had no idea sounder has a battery too! Is it difficult to replace and where is it?
Thank you for the link!

 

Yes I'd imagine on a portfolio spec it will be battery backed, they all are here due to thacham requirements. Some of them have inclination ( jacking ) sensors built in too, you should be able to check in the CCF, but as you can edit the CCF you may as well get one that does anyway.

It's not that difficult to replace but a little fiddly, it's under the left ( nearside uk ) pedestrian protection airbag.

To get to it you need to remove the wiper arms, cowl panel, brace bar, center secondary bulkhead, left secondary bulk head ( well you can get away with just unbolting and moving it over a bit), cover over the interior air intake, left pedestrian airbag ( don't forget to disconnect the batteries and wait an appropriate amount of time for the airbags to be safe! - and follow all other airbag handling/storage instructions. ), separate the big connector for the engine wiring harness, and unbolt the bracket for the airbag ( one bolt is in the wheel arch ), then you can tip the bracket towards the center of the car ( there not quite enough room to remove it), to get at the sounder.

If you want to replace the battery in the sounder you'll have to grind the welds off, and split the seem open on the plastic case with something like a dremmel.

See my post https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...1/#post2758780 for used part number. ( Then again if you can't find a pretty new one used, you might want to open it and change the battery or buy new )

 

That's a lot of parts to be taken apart... I am new to jags and it seems they are complex cars with some faults... Will tackle it after air con problem one day... thank you Phil

 

Yeah not difficult, you just need somewhere to put the parts you removed. Well and use a bit of finesse when removing that nut in the wheel arch, I've seen a few pedestrian protection airbags for sale with the brackets on ebay with the stud on the bracket sheared. I just kept changing direction whenever I felt it was getting a bit tight - probably spent about 5 mins working it off the thread, might have been better to wire brush the threads, and spray with penetrating oil, then clean the oil off with brake cleaner or reduce torque on refitting.

Apart from water ingress issues ( leaks on the attachment of the lifters for the tailgate into the d-pillars, box vents, not using a water blocking connector between the washer pump and BCM ) and using the same dodgy emulated eeprom facility of that SoC ( that BMW used too), I don't particularly feel they've that many unexpected problems. I mean anything with a battery in should be expected to fail on 8+ year old car. ( Those same alarm sounders have the same issues on volvos too )

I think part of it is folk spend the same kind of money they would on a cheaper brand, and so get an older car, then are somehow expecting the quality is so much better they won't have more issues.

However it's how a brand deals with things when you have a problem, that can set them apart from the lesser brands. When it takes a month ( and even longer for a courtesy car ) to get a booking for service at the dealers, and then they don't do everything you've booked for and give you you car back broken when it was perfect when you took it in for example ;-)

A bit of a contrast to when I had a skoda, took it to the dealers ( without a booking ) with an airbag light on at 7.30 in the morning on my way to work, quoted me a figure for diagnostics, fitted me in there an then, by about 7.50 they had found the problem and quoted me for the fix ( inc diagnostics ), by about 8.20 I was on my way to work with my car fixed.

Next skoda I had, ended up with a failed turbo actuator ( went like a rocket until the engine management detected "transient overboost", and put it in limp mode ), popped into the dealers on my way home from work, quick diagnostic, ordered the parts for next day, booked me for the next day ( with a courtesy car ) fair enough had to leave it for the day as they were squeezing it in between other jobs, I dropped it in in the morning, and all done by 4pm.

I can't claim the skoda dealers were cheap, but they were went out of their way to help you, and I never managed to find fault with anything they fixed.
( a shame skoda only do DSG, or manual transmission, or I'd probably own one right now - a pity my local skoda dealers have changed hands since too, but I get the feeling it's skoda policy to have good dealers as they'd like to make a name for themselves )

 

I must be lucky then, had 1998 s40 for 12 years, 600k km on it and 2008 s80 for 7 years 300k km , both 2 L petrol, very little issues. I can't deal with dealerships, they have very little knowledge and usually bad customer service, all brands all cars... Just deal with things myself, cheaper and more effective... Like Jag, instead of spedning thousands on bcm module, just flash it...

You were lucky with your skoda

I was meant to ask, in sportbrake, under the 3 piece foldable carpet, is there supposed to be a tray or something, or straight away red spare wheel and 2 batteries, some foam boxes for tooling etc? Some jag owners say there is a tray, but don't know...might be missing

 

Yes there should be a storage tray ( I think you'd describe it as closed cell foam ), there are two different thicknesses, a thick one for cars without spare wheel, and a thin one for cars with. At a guess someone will have added the spare to your car but not got hold of the thin tray. Hopefully they got the tool storage box for the jack etc, a proper sportbrake jack ( different from saloon ones ) and the plastic support plate that runs from the top of the subwoofer ( I guess this is to protect the air suspension pressure tank ) to a metal bracket that bolts into a couple of holes on the rear most ( as in back of the car ) boot wall and hold down bolt, so it's all nice and secure, and not resting too heavily on the air suspension. I guess the tray is awkward to post so they probably didn't get it sent from a breakers with the rest.

If you're trying to locate one at the breakers I think all 3.0d S sportbrakes came with a spare.

 

I think I am missing the tray ok, very hard to get, seems to have everything else...

 

If you do get around to doing the sounder, you might want to get yourself these in advance ( depending if you mind the odd broken clip ):-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292272906791
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204059891651

 

Thanks, have set of the black ones, but I gave up on the sounder to be honst, too much work with this car and to many faults. I will fix up what I can and move on to another car. I like xf very much, but it is too much work and faults despite it is just 150k km (and 1 previous owner with full jag history), timing belt and water pump done, gearbox oil and filter (flushed system) and full service including rear diff etc. Just too much and don't have time or money for everything... Going to keep it for couple months and thinking of xc70... We will see, just don't need another project car;-)

 

Hi Phil,
Some update on flucutating rpm and speedo:

Start car in the morning, revs match Torque App, 780rpm +/- 5. Once accelerate and let go, then idle stays at about 900-950rpm but OBDII tool shows correct 780rpm. Then, while driving, rev not just fluctuate, but have different readings than Torque App. For example, Torque App shows 1300rpm +/- 5rpm, car’s dash shows 1500rpm and fluctuating about 100-200rpm depending what gear is it on. This 100-200rpm seems like the idle difference 900/950 – 780 rpm. Speedo is fluctuating same as revs. Having done some research, I could not find cause for this or fix. I have full SDD software, with dongle etc but can’t find any option to associate with this issue. Also, gearbox is fully serviced, no errors in SDD and it is not the torque converter , otherwise it would show on OBDII tool. Very strange. I am thinking batteries now, however, the main battery is good, I even did CTK recovery on it for 20h. Small battery seems ok, 13.2V, but I see it is an original battery from new + when I use SDD to test secondary battery (I think small one is the secondary) it does not pass the test, some error occurs, while big battery passes. I heard those jags are very fussy with electrics and batteries... I also never got the the sounder, it is not worth for me to do it atm.

 

If you start the car with the instrument cluster in engineering test mode, you should be able to see digital versions of the RPM, and speed.
Assuming they agree with torque that suggests the data is transmitted to the cluster ok. In which case something is affecting the digital to analog conversion in the cluster used to drive needles, presumably they use a voice coil motor like the heads of a hard disk. The analog to digital conversion most likely works by PWM, probably the pulse widths will be ok, but maybe the voltage is varying from what it should be regulated too. Which would suggest either an internal instrument cluster fault ( I suppose try configuring it in SDD first before replacement ), or the voltage on the vehicle has wild fluctuations - perhaps a failed diode in the rectifier pack in the alternator ( which would be too fast to measure what's going on with a multimeter), so you could do with measuring voltage ripple with an AC coupled oscilloscope, that ripple may be enough to throw out the voltage regulation in the cluster. If you don't have a suitable scope maybe consider a https://www.topdon.com/products/batt...-btmobile-lite which as I recall can give you ripple figures for the charging system, as well as check the batteries.

I doubt it's anything to do with the smaller battery, but as it's an easy job, and the Exide ones are pretty cheap, so you may as well do that first.

 

Hi Phil,
By internal cluster instrument you mean the clocks themselves or the cluster? I have updated the cluster with SDD to the newest version after the key / bcm problem.
Do you remember how to enter engineering test mode on the cluster?
In relation to voltage, alternator etc I have checked it with multimeter and it is really nice and steady, but I will dig deeper next week based on your suggestions.
Thanks