When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
@clubairth1 Sorry if I wasn't clear in my first post. All the part numbers in the first column are from my car, and the C#'s that follow in my list are what I "found" online using Jaguar Classic and a few US based sites. The JLR part#'s aren't present on the tangible parts themselves.
Each side has two ducts. One bolts to the rad (i labeled this as inner) and the other duct bolts to inner version, which then conforms to the bumper.
The DX2M part#'s in my first post are what was written on each. They were also labeled RH and LH.
- DX2M-8C464-A --> RH - DX2M-8C465-A --> LH
Also worth nothing, on the backside my outer ducts have "XFRS" stamped into the plastic. So you are likely correct in that the XJ might have something different as the bumpers on each are likely different enough
The Inner ducts also have stickers that say RS, and "LH" as seen above in post#1. Behind those stickers, a few alternate part#s are listed.
Ideally you are going to have to confirm XJ parts from an XJ, I wouldn't want to rely that the XF stuff will fit the XJ until someone has both in hand.
Yes your right. I want to compare the part numbers from your XF passenger side duct to my XJ's passenger duct and maybe use that as a bridge to find the RH parts for my XJ.
Thanks for posting those pictures they are a big help!
.
.
.
New hoses showed up today for the rads - I can happily confirm that the correct part numbers for running BOTH rads, from my XFR-S are:
Hose OUT - C2Z25540 Hose IN - C2Z25541
Thanks to @mojo88 and @mlrtime99 for their help here. Miller let us know when your parts come in and we can make a final part# list for this thread to triple-confirm! (just realized I cannot edit my first two posts at the top anymore)
Interestingly the on-line Jaguar dealer diagrams show both these hoses fit the XJ too? I wonder if that's correct?
With C2Z25540 replacing the old part number C2Z14128.
And C2Z25541 replacing the old number C2Z14129
.
.
.
Great information and thank you for compiling all of it. I was originally confused when I first looked into the idea of adding the drivers side auxiliary radiator to my 2011 XFR since the parts description I found like the one in post #16 refer to the small radiator as an inter-cooler I was thinking that they were used to supplement the front mounted supercharger intercooler which I thought would be a great idea. I was considering looking for one as I was wanting to increase my intercooler efficiency after changing to the larger lower supercharger pulley. I was disappointed to find that these were made to supplement the main cooling system not the intercooler. I wonder i how hard it would be to modify a drivers side setup to add it into the intercooler system to increase capacity and efficiency of the intercooler system. I just think it is a waste to have a cosmetic air duct that goes nowhere when this setup is available but I’m not sure if it would be cost effective or actually as effective as just buying the larger aftermarket intercooler if it could be made to work.
Great information and thank you for compiling all of it. I was originally confused when I first looked into the idea of adding the drivers side auxiliary radiator to my 2011 XFR since the parts description I found like the one in post #16 refer to the small radiator as an inter-cooler I was thinking that they were used to supplement the front mounted supercharger intercooler which I thought would be a great idea. I was considering looking for one as I was wanting to increase my intercooler efficiency after changing to the larger lower supercharger pulley. I was disappointed to find that these were made to supplement the main cooling system not the intercooler. I wonder i how hard it would be to modify a drivers side setup to add it into the intercooler system to increase capacity and efficiency of the intercooler system. I just think it is a waste to have a cosmetic air duct that goes nowhere when this setup is available but I’m not sure if it would be cost effective or actually as effective as just buying the larger aftermarket intercooler if it could be made to work.
You're welcome. I too was mislead by the naming "inter-cooler" but once I had it all off it made more sense. And in theory the rads and intercooler ARE connected, so they are sharing some real estate, but not sure how much the bypass hose allows for an averaging of temps across both systems. I have to wonder how much is to be gained from divorcing the systems entirely.
In theory, you could add the DS Aux rad, and then run a pair of hoses to tee into the intercooler radiator. $200 for the rad, another $150 in hoses and maybe $50 in adapters.Then the shrouds/fenderliner if you can find a set for getting the airflow there This beats the price point of the paramount intercooler by far. Not sure on total volume increase between the two. (I think the paramount is 30% larger and all aluminum) The aux rad holds about 500ml of coolant and is also aluminum. While more expensive, I would still vote for the upgraded I/C because its a bolt in affair and just a better version of what's there. But I suppose using the aux rads for that circuit is possible. You'd want to upgrade the pump too I would think, to help move the fluid around the extra space.
From what I've heard, there is no gains to be made by divorcing the system. I can't offer an explanation why...it's just what I heard from a friend that owns the XKR with the V8 SC in it. He is very thorough when he does research and I trust his opinion more than my local mechanic.
From what I've heard, there is no gains to be made by divorcing the system. I can't offer an explanation why...it's just what I heard from a friend that owns the XKR with the V8 SC in it. He is very thorough when he does research and I trust his opinion more than my local mechanic.
^ This is spot on.... you've got two fluid systems that have a crossover for fill and bleed purposes only. They flow coolant through their own loops only. Even if the engine loop were hotter there's no pressure differential that would draw this hotter coolant into the IC loop. Yes there may be contact in the crossover between fluid at different temperatures with some heat transfer through convection but they aren't actively mixing and any "shared" thermal transfer would be drowned out by the radiator.
Imagine a cup of hot water connected to a cup of ice water through a straw (with the air removed). Yes the body of fluids are in contact with each other, no they do not dramatically influence the temperature of the other.
From what I've heard, there is no gains to be made by divorcing the system. I can't offer an explanation why...it's just what I heard from a friend that owns the XKR with the V8 SC in it. He is very thorough when he does research and I trust his opinion more than my local mechanic.
That's not quite true.
While it's true that the systems should be separated as described, by divorcing the system you can increase the capacity of it, which increases the thermal capacity and therefore cooling efficiency. Additionally, you can then either do what I've done and run an ice tank in the trunk, or plumb in a killer chiller, and you can run the system colder than ambient.
You can increase the capacity of either side of the system whether they are separate or not. If you add a 1L reservoir to the IC loop, that extra capacity and heat dispersion will be used by the IC side only, not the engine side. I think the part you're hung up on is thinking the fluid is actively being pumped through the crossover and it's not.
You can increase the capacity of either side of the system whether they are separate or not. If you add a 1L reservoir to the IC loop, that extra capacity and heat dispersion will be used by the IC side only, not the engine side. I think the part you're hung up on is thinking the fluid is actively being pumped through the crossover and it's not.
No, I understand the fluid is not being pumped through the crossover. But if you're adding a reservoir, wouldn't you just allow for expansion and filling in that rather than having to stick to the existing piping/locations/etc? At least in my case with the ice tank it made sense, and I think unless you're mounting the reservoir somewhere really close to the existing pipework (like down by the rads?) you may as well mount it somewhere accessible and separate the two.
Last edited by davetibbs; Oct 20, 2021 at 08:35 PM.
I am still confused as to what outer shroud i need for my 2012 XFR facelift. I'm guessing the inner shroud is the same but the outer one might be shaped differently, please correct me if I'm wrong.
As far as i know there would be 5 different bumpers for the x250:
XF
XFR
XF FACELIFT
XFR FACELIFT
XFR-S FACELIFT
Can anyone with a facelift xfr that has the dual intercoolers confirm the part number?
Thanks!
These particular parts seem to be getting harder to find. I ordered the two hoses and aux radiator last night (already had the intake ductwork purchased and mounted), but it took me a few minutes to find them. A lot of sites didn't even seem to recognize the numbers anymore. Weird (or I was drunk). I spent right at $500 for those three parts and just hope that they actually have the parts they sold me, as I've run into that BS before.
Well, I received the driver-side auxiliary radiator (C2D23155) and should have the inlet hose (C2Z25541) delivered on Monday, but I got screwed by another vendor who sold me something they didn't have: the outlet hose (C2Z25540). I purchased it a week ago on eBay, and the seller (quirkparts) waited a week to inform me that they didn't actually have it. And, likely the only reason they did was because I sent them a note to please send tracking information. They then responded with, "Hello, Unfortunately, at the time of your order, we had a run on this item and our stock depleted. Sometimes this happens when an order has been placed before our inventory has had a chance to update. We are unable to obtain a replacement, and are forced to cancel the order. We apologize for any inconvenience. Thank you."
I don't know why I'm surprised, as I've had this happen multiple times while buying parts for my car, but it should be illegal. I did all of my searching and didn't buy the part from other vendors, as I purchased through quirkparts. So, now I've lost all of the other vendors I'd had pulled up, and I can't find the part available anywhere else (it's like it never existed). I'm so pissed off right now. Those a$$holes have cost me a week of waiting, the opportunity to buy it from someone who actually had it, and a few hours of my life spent searching online by selling me something they didn't have. Serenity now!!!
If anyone has a source/link for an available C2Z25540, please let me know.
Also, just an FYI which might alleviate some future confusion... I noticed in this thread that the part numbers were sometimes "miswritten," i.e. C2Z25540 was accidentally miswritten as C2Z5540 - notice that the "2" is left out between the "Z" and the "5" in the second set of numbers/letters? The part without that "2" in the middle of that set of numbers/letters would show up as a "Door Module," which is what I believe Devin experienced through his dealer, which would then clearly be the wrong part for the cooling system.
Also, here's my pretty new auxiliary radiator:
New 2nd Auxiliary Radiator (Driver-side)
Last edited by Reaxions; Apr 30, 2022 at 02:51 PM.
From your posts I don't think I can find it if you can't? I know how thorough you are.
I do see it listed at Welsh Enterprises? Hose
But I bet they can't get it either.
Off the wall suggestion? I often work on old obsolete cars/trucks that have zero parts availability so I don't even search. But what I do pretty regular is make my own cooling hoses from bits and pieces of new hoses. Cutting corners and angles as needed and joining the straight sections with a small metal pipe and some clamps. Not the best looking for sure. I have a commercial account at the local O'Reilly's so I can get behind the counter and go thru the hundreds of hoses they have hanging in the back. If your more adventurous you can heat and mould the rubber hoses too but it's a fine line between hot enough for the rubber to stay in place after cooling and having the entire piece of rubber just collapse in a melted mess!
Now I like this but have not used it yet? I like that it covers a range of heater hoses that should be the diameters we are looking for. They come in 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4" versions. Gates Unicoil Hose
Thanks for the link and suggestions, clubairth1!!! Welsh didn't show up in my search, but I just ordered it from them. I've ordered some other stuff from them, so we'll see if they can get it.
I have thought about making my own hose(s). I'd previously noticed that Gates has some really highly reviewed and low-priced hoses on Amazon with Prime shipping (some even one-day) and free returns, but I'll take at the links you sent, too. I honestly don't care about the aesthetics down low in the engine bay, so it might be the route to take. Especially if Welsh can't get that hose.
I mean, how bad can they really screw up a rubber hose, right? Some of them look like they have pretty decent reviews, but I do question fitment and long-term durability, and dealing with another coolant leak isn't something I really want to deal with again anytime soon.
Like everything else with these parts, tracking them down to confirm cross-compatibility, fitment, etc. is just a huge time burglar, and time's the one thing I don't have a lot of right now, unfortunately.
I see you have already ordered this from Welsh so this might be a backup if Welsh can't help you.
I just got another message?
Hi Kevin, C2Z25540 $89.48 is a special order part, stocking ETA is 2-3 business days once ordered. If you order the part on Terrysjag.com, mention my name as the salesman. Thank you. Diana Fisher 800-581-8188
.
.
.
Last edited by clubairth1; May 2, 2022 at 08:35 AM.