Didn't take too many photos as I was working late and in a rush to get done, this is more of a tips and tricks then full DIY.

2013 XF 3.0SC
I recommend ordering Lemforder for both the control arms and toe links, the front control arms had the Jaguar logo grounded off.
Use caution when transferring plastic aero deflectors from the old arms to new, use zip ties to secure as the latches break easily.
The front passenger side is a breeze, the driver side on vehicles equipped with 5.0/3.0 has a bolt from the plastic transmission cooler base that protrudes and prevents you from removing the eccentric bolt.
You have to remove a single fastener on the transmission cooler, then slide it towards the rear of the vehicle so the two rear tabs clear, then prop it up above the sway bar. You can then barely fit a 13mm deep socket into the plastic base and back out the bolt, you don't have to remove just back it out flush with the nut in the subframe.
Don't forget to mark the eccentric bolts on the front lower control arms to get it back somewhat close to where they were, you will need an alignment anyway. This adjustment is for caster.
The grey plastic inserts on the front lower control arm bushings can fall out and go in a specific direction, pay attention to this.
Make sure the eccentric washers and sitting in-between the slots on the subframe and not crushing them, I used a mirror and flashlight to verify through the hole in the subframe before torquing.

Typically on these cars the boots on the outer rear toe links fail, and the bushings on the front lower control arms tear and leak, look for oil stains underneath the bushings.

The rear toe links are very simple to replace, if you have a 18mm ratcheting wrench it goes much faster.

Torque specs
Front lower control arms 129 ft lbs bushing (leave these loose and drive onto ramps for final torquing otherwise you will destroy the bushing)
Front lower control arms 44 ft lbs ball joint + 135 degrees (torque to 44 ft lbs step 1 then mark with a sharpie and turn additional 135 degrees, the nut must be countered and will spin)
Rear toe link outer ball joint 46 ft lbs
Rear toe link inner ball joint 66 ft lbs

P/N
LEMFÖRDER 3359001 Rear Toe Links
LEMFÖRDER 3967601 Front Lower Control Arms
Both parts are the same L/R.
I found the best price on the rear toe links from RockAuto and the front lower control arms from AutohausAZ.

 

Had alignment done, having an issue with rear camber on passenger side. I wonder if it’s related to the rear subframe being lowered recently for service work.

Unfortunately there is no rear camber adjustment on these cars.

 

Found an alignment sheet from 2017 that the same shop did prior to the rear subframe being disturbed,

Looks like the driver rear camber was the same -1.0 degree and the passenger was -1.6 degrees.

I would think the subframe alignment would take from one side and give it to the other.

Going to give the rear control arms a good look at on the passenger side tomorrow.

 

I inspected the rear end again, didn't find anything loose or degraded. The upper spring isolators look intact and not crumbling and the same side to side. I measured the ride height, its the same side to side.
I looked at the bolts on the subframe for the witness marks, the driver side is barely moved from factory, the passenger side maybe 3-4mm but looks primarily moved towards the engine and not side to side.

I will probably leave it alone and monitor for excessive inner tire wear.

 

Thank you again, for another detailed (and timely) writeup.

I am looking at doing the rear toe links soon as I need an alignment with my new tires. I need to triple check the R-S uses the same links, but the lemforders are a nice price point compared to oem. FCPEuro Link Assuming you have no issues so far? Only been a few months but worth asking.

My x260 front LCA bushing leaked fluid, but my 2015's seem to be holding up fine so far. I have been tossing the idea around of doing the powerflex bushing upgrade in the front, but not sure I want to mess with the dyamics much. I love the oem feel.

 

No issues with the rear toe links, saved a lot of $$$ compared to the overpriced JLR parts.

 

Surprised the rear sway bar end links weren't tore up too? They seem to last about as long as the rear toe rods do.
But yours look good in the pictures.

The transmission oil cooler brick plastic tray hold down bolts mentioned in the first post will most likely be rusted in place. For some reason this small plastic part is attached to the cars frame with 2 large 13mm bolts pointing straight down. So any water that gets on the transmission cooler brick will pool on top of those 2 bolt's. Rusting them in place (I should say corroding them) and unfortunately Jaguar used Aluminum rivet nuts for those steel bolts to thread into. That rivet nut started turning when I tried to remove those bolts. A real pain and I finally used a small vise grip to hold the backside of the Aluminum rivet nut. Soak them in penetrating oil too.
When they go back in they will be covered in anti-seize!!
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I didn't have that issue but I'm in California, that sounds like it sucked.

 

Yes I am in Texas and no rust also. That's why I was a bit surprised with all the rust on those two bolts.
It's now back in and yes the Aluminum threaded insert started turning when I tightened the bolt. Even being clean and covered in anti-seize. So again I got the vise grips on the insert and when it got tight then the insert stopped turning.
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