Well, I have a coolant leak...AGAIN! First it was the crossover pipe under the supercharger, then the thermostat housing, then the water pump, now...I have no clue. I can't see any noticeable wet spots or drips from the top or bottom of the engine, but it's leaking into the undercarriage pan. I burn thru about "an inch" of the reservoir every few hours of driving, noticeable smell of coolant, no vapor or any obvious burn-off. I was supposed to take a 4 hour trip tomorrow but decided to rent a car instead, I don't need the stress of getting stranded or overheating.

Does anyone have any ideas of where to look? I know it's like a needle in the haystack but figured I would give it a shot.

3.0 S/C FYI.

 

Sorry to hear, the coolant system is certainly complex - but have a look at other car brands, not any better.
With crossover you mean the Y-pipe in the engine's V-valley? For that the SC needs to come out, if so did you replace both tubes with the updated versions? Or do you mean one of the many cooling crossover pipes in front of the engine?
Was the rear crossover pipe replaced? What about the bleeding pipe that connects to of Y-pipe and water pump with the expansion reservoir? Finally was that small tube between oil cooler and water pump replaced when the water pump was exchanged?
If not done yet, did you lower the undercarriage pan and check if it comes down on front / rear / left / right of the engine?

good luck
Chris

 

Yes you need to change everything out at the same time. When you do what you did which is nit pick each repair individually you will arrive where you are now.
For anyone reading this the lesson is there are a NUMBER of repairs that must be done at the same time. Mainly because removing the SC is a fairly big job and the LAST thing you want to be doing is what BreaktheChains is running into!

I don't see where you changed the rear water manifold or changed the SC oil. Both of these items are part of that repair.

How does the SC snout sound upon shut down? Any clunking? If so please add that to the repair. With the SC off it's MUCH easier to do that repair.
Depending on how you like the entire symposer thing. That can be removed and/or blocked off too if you don't care for it.
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The front "cross over" plastics, intercooler plastics, expansion tank and associated lines, and water pump small plastic lines are all prone to failure. Several of these can come into contact with pulleys/belts in the front of the motor. This was a source of leaking for me.

On a slightly different note, not knowing how many miles you've put on your car since your repairs but you could be burning off the coolant that's gotten onto hot parts. It took at least 100 miles before my coolant system worked all the air out. I would recommend taking the belly pan off and getting the car up to operating temperature then diagnosing your leaks.

I would mostly agree with others in that you should do all of the plastics at once to rid yourself of further headaches.

 

I had originally thought that I was losing coolant from the air in the system after my latest repair, but I have well over 300-400 miles since then so that's no longer an issue. Plus, there is coolant in my under-belly pan and I can smell it while the engine is running.

 

There are 2 aluminum coolant pipes for JLR engines available at eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/22489388594...caAgbcEALw_wcB

 

Boy that is a great find! I did not believe it because that is EXACTLY what Jaguar should have done. In fact it's even worse because Jaguar started out using Aluminum on those parts but then changed how they attached to the engine when the plastic versions were released. So the older Jaguar AL. parts can't be used on the newer engines.

Interesting that it only lists 2013-2019? I guess it won't fit the 2010-2012 cars? I have a 2014 so am not sure?
I see the plastic versions listed for 2010-2010 LR? Maybe these will fit all models?

You have to wonder how much warranty money and bad press Jaguar could have avoided if they had updated and kept the Al. castings?
Next question is will we have any problems with the AL. aftermarket replacement? They look well made in the pictures.

Hope he keeps going and does an AL. rear water manifold too!
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Yeah. I was VERY happy to find that mine are made of aluminum.

 

Is it possible for a leak to practically fix itself? I've been surprised to find out that my leak has almost stopped, my levels have been almost the same after about 150 miles of driving in warm weather this week. I'm baffled...

 

Probably not BUT stranger things have happened!
I would just keep an eagle eye on fluid levels and see if it settles down. I know when I drop the coolant in various cars/trucks it sometimes takes a while for the fluid level to stop moving around.

Maybe you finally got some good luck?
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I had exactly the same problem - sounds like yours fixed itself but if you do have issues in the future, buy some coolant UV dye (about $8) and a black light torch (about $10) - you will see exactly where the leak is.

 

After my major cooling system overhaul the level was not fully settled for several hundred miles. The factory tray has a sponge in it that may have absorbed enough coolant prior to your repairs that is still evaporating. As I initially mentioned I think your smelling old coolant. Regardless keep an eye on your fluid levels. Also if your coolant was really low in your expansion tank the system may not have been full or be full. The expansion tank can be deceiving as to actual fluid levels as it has a series of baffles in it.