How to Perform a 4-Wheel XF-SC & XFR Brake Job "HOW TO"
#1
11-29-2012, 12:30 PM
How to Perform a 4-Wheel XF-SC & XFR Brake Job "HOW TO"
This post is a reference for the home mechanic to assist in performing a 4-wheel brake job on an 2011 XF SC or similar XFR model equipped with the integral electronic rear parking brake system. It is the compilation of hours or research and trial & error which may save someone a lot of time and frustration. Read it carefully, print it and the attachments and then start on your brake job! No warranties implied or expressed.
Tools needed::
1. The most difficult thing or tool to acquire is a 9 mm 3/8" Drive Hex Bit/ Allen Head Socket, Complete sets of Metric Hex Bits Sockets do not include this size and while they appear to be sold in increments of 1 mm they skip from 8 mm to 10 mm. After driving all over town not finding any and searching the internet, I ordered two types from my local NAPA Auto parts store and picked them up the next morning. You should also be aware that the 9 mm Hex Bits listed below are longer than standard which makes it easier to reach the bolt and around obstructions. I would highly recommend these two:
Socket, 3/8"; 9 mm; Impact; Hex Bit Metric- Product Number: NPT 613109, Price: $5.99
Bit Socket, 3/8"; 9 mm; Hex Bit Socket- Product Number: NHT NBH209M, Price: $3.30
Link to - NAPA 9 mm Hex Bit Sockets
2. You will also need a readily available 7 mm 3/8" Drive Hex Bit/ Allen Head Socket, which is included with a 3/8" drive Metric Hex Bit/ Allen set.
3. 3/8" ratchet with a long handle- preferred
4. 3/8" torque wrench
5. Torx size T-25 screw driver
6. Heavy dead-blow or brass hammer and a large pry type screw driver
7. A large C-Clamp to compress the front calipers or they can be compressed with the kit listed in #8.
8. The special tool set designed for retracting the rear calipers with their integral parking brake feature. This tool is available for free loan or purchase at AutoZone parts stores (OEM Disc Brake Caliper Tool Set for $60.00 Part Number: 27111), or Amazon.com for purchase. The rear calipers particular to the Jaguar requires this tool, which rotates and threads the pistons back into the caliper on vehicles with self-adjusting parking brakes. Without this special piston rewinding tool, servicing the rear brakes is almost impossible.
Link to AutoZone Brake Tool
9. A good floor jack and jack stands
Replacement Parts:
There are many ultra-high performance brake parts available that are extremely expensive, however I don't go racing this car. I would grade my use as "normal" city and then highway/interstate driving in the range of 60-75 MPH.
Ceramic Pads are the way to go. The Total Brake job on my 04 XJ VDP and now my 2011 XF SC with ceramic pads work great and virtually no dust. Semi-metallic brake pads are more abrasive and wear rotors faster. I have found more rotor wear and brake dust using semi-metallic pads, not less rotor wear. Ceramic pads cause less rotor wear and less visible dust.
Since they were first used on a few original applications in 1985, friction materials that contain ceramic formulations have become recognized for their desirable blend of traits. These pads use ceramic compounds and copper fibers in place of the semi-metallic pad's steel fibers. This allows the ceramic pads to handle high brake temperatures with less heat fade, provide faster recovery after the stop, and generate less dust and wear on both the pads and rotors. And from a comfort standpoint, ceramic compounds provide much quieter because the ceramic compound helps dampen noise by generating a frequency beyond the human hearing range.
Another characteristic that makes ceramic materials attractive is the absence of noticeable dust. All brake pads produce dust as they wear. The ingredients in ceramic compounds produce a light colored dust that is much less noticeable and less likely to stick to the wheels. Consequently, wheels and tires maintain a cleaner appearance longer.
Ceramic pads meet or exceed all original equipment standards for durability, stopping distance and noise. According to durability tests, ceramic compounds extend compared to most other semi-metallic and organic materials and outlast other premium pad materials by a significant margin - with no sacrifice in noise control, pad life or braking performance.
Basically I think the evolution of ceramic pads is an engineering improvement over past materials and they don't eat rotors they save them.
I found a 4-Wheel Set Ceramic Brake Pads #271010622898 that fit perfectly and cost in the range of $116.00 shipped are usually available on from Brake Labs.
Link: Brake Labs Ceramic Pads for XF SC & XFR I installed these and have no problems. Including any squeaking or break in issues.
EBC RED STUFF #DP32076C FRONT PADS, #DP32059C REAR, appears to be the only higher cost 4-wheel ceramic pads available for my 2011 XF-SC and XFR 5.0.
Link to EBC Red Brake Pads all four wheels $257.50 shipped. The EBC Red pads are for normal driving. EBC Yellow pads are for racing or track days and are not designed for daily driving.
A t 12K miles my front and rear rotors are still in perfect condition or they would have to be resurfaced or instead just replace them. The rear brakes usually last longer, however in this model the electric parking park is integrated into the rear calipers and the piston must be threaded back into the bore to retract unlike the front calipers which can move straight back into the bore when released. The characteristic may cause the rear brakes to drag slightly causing more wear. You will notice that the rear calipers are much harder to pull off the rotors than the front when removing.
There are two Brake Pad wear sensors that snap on to the Left Front inboard pad and fit into the rattle spring on the Right Rear inboard pad. They had not made contact with the rotors, so I just snapped them on to the new pads. If they are worn and you have gotten a brake wear warning, then they must be replaced at a cost of $75 to $90 each OEM. (Note: 2009 Models do not have this sensor)
Link for Brake Pad Sensors: http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13631818512562
Supplies:
Two cans of brake cleaner spray and a quart of DOT4 brake fluid, Locktite thread locker or similar product and plastic tubing to drain fluid when bleeding brakes. You may invest in a "one-man brake bleeder" or get a friend, a glass jar and duct tape to bleed them.
Safety First: Always wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves to protect you from brake fluid and dust. Always use jack stands to support the car when the wheels are removed. Always chock the tires and use a floor jacket to lift the vehicle. Never climb under the vehicle under any circumstances.
First:
Get all the parts, tools and supplies. Take your time and be safe. It's actually very easy to complete with the right tools.
Before lifting the car remember first chock the wheels, now you are ready to slightly loosen the wheel lug nuts then jack the vehicle. Open the hood and open the cap to the brake fluid reservoir located under the cover on the drivers-side above the firewall. You can do one wheel at a time or all by using four jack stands.
Front Wheels:
Remove tire. Place a pan under the brake assembly and flush the grim off with brake cleaner.
Remove the spring loaded rattle clip located on the middle of the outboard side of the caliper. Remove the two 9 mm socket/Allen head slide pin bolts. They are located on the top and bottom of the inboard side of the caliper and you must remove the black rubberized cap that encloses the caliper slide pin bolts to access them.
Remove the caliper from the rotor. It may bind slightly, use a dead-blow or brass hammer to knock or pry it back off the rotor. Support caliper. These calipers and rotors are huge/massive.
On the drivers or left-side front there is a "Wear Sensor" that snaps straight into a notch on the outside edge of the inboard pads. If worn and has cause a "Brakes Worn" warning light it needs to be replaced. If not worn snap into the slot on the new inboard pad. If reusing, take care to notice that a small clip may come off the sensor and stick to the notch in the old pad. Remove it then place it back on the sensor and snap it onto new pad.
On the XF SC and XFR the brakes are massive and especially the rotors. If the rotors look perfect and you are not replacing them then you can skip this step and save a lot of time. Nice rotors look nice and flat with no pits, flaking or grooves in them. You can scuff them up if you would like. If the rotors show signs of heavy wear or you have a pulsating pedal replace the rotors. Re-machining cost is significant and really not worth it. Just replace the rotors. Remove the two bolts holding the caliper mounting bracket to the vehicle. The bolts have thread locker applied and are difficult to remove. You may need a lot of effort and the dead blown hammer or a impact ratchet/gun to loosen them. After removing the caliper bracket. Remove the retaining clips around the wheel studs that hold the rotor to the hub. Snap them or break them off. The rotor should just pull off. If not spray around the joint between the rotor and the hub with penetrating oil. Then use your hammer to persuade it off.
If you are replacing rotors there a lot of choices. With include drilled and or slotted. I prefer the look of theses big rotors without hole and slots. The choice is yours. I have used Centric Rotors on my 2004 XJ VDP with great results.
There are Centric rear rotors available here for $146.00 each.
Link: Centric Rear Rotors #125.20031 and fronts for $205.00 each
Link: Centric Front Rotors #125.20030. About $700.00 a set of 4.
There also are this set of four drilled and slotted rotors available for $867.00.
Link: PREMIUM-SERIES-DRILLED-SLOTTED-Rotors
Compress the pistons straight back into the front caliper using an old disc brake pad and a C-clamp or utilizing the brake service kit that you will definitely need for the rear calipers. Clean the thread locker from the Caliper Mounting Bolts with a wire brush. Install the new disc. Apply thread locker to the caliper mounting bolts and torque to 135 Ft.lbs. Remove any clips from old pads and install on new pads. Make sure slide pins which have rubber boots around them on the caliper mounting brackets are free and lubricated. Install the pads on to the caliper mounting bracket with pad material contacting/ facing the rotor. Slide caliper over pads then install caliper mounting bolts torque to 25 Ft-lbs. and reinstall the rubber caps.
Rear Wheels:
Rear wheel procedure is the same as the front expect for the use of a 7 mm 3/8" Drive Hex Bit/ Allen Head Socket in additional complications caused by the electric parking park system. The cable attached to the rear calipers should be in a relaxed, non-tension condition. If not follow the procedure to release the parking brake.
First remove the anti-rattle spring and the flat cover attached with two Torx T-25 screws found on the outboard side of the caliper. You will need a 7 mm 3/8 drive Hex Bit/Allen Head Socket to remove the caliper slide pin mounting bolts.
On the passenger or right-side rear there is a "Wear Sensor" that fits into the anti-rattle spring and then into the notch on the outside edge of the inboard pad. You have to remove the spring from the pad then insert the sensor into the center of the spring, then replace the spring with the sensor into the notch on the inboard pad. If the sensor is worn and has cause a "Brakes Worn" warning light it needs to be replaced.
After removing the rear caliper, the piston is retracted by using the Special piston retraction tool which threads the piston back into the bore. The pins on the tool engage holes in the face of the piston which allow ot to thread in. Do Not Attempt to press the rear caliper piston straight into the bore. It will be ruined. Use the proper tool and it takes seconds, without it you're screwed. Note: When using the Auto Zone Brake Tool, NO adapter from the kit is needed to fit the holes in the face of the piston. (See picture below on left)
If required remove the caliper bracket and rotor using the same procedure as the front wheel. Clean Caliper mounting bracket bolts, install rotor, apply thread locker and mount caliper bracket. Install brake pads and caliper same as front wheel. Slide caliper over pads then install caliper mounting bolts torque to 25 Ft-lbs. and reinstall the rubber caps.
Flushing Bleeding Brake System:
Follow factory brake bleeding procedure in attached PDF file Jag Brake Bleeding. To flush the entire system start at the passenger rear and continue the pressing the brake pedal to pump the fluid through the system while opening and closing the bleeder valve until clean brake fluid can be seen exiting the bleeder tube and no bubbles are present. (Press pedal down to floor then open valve, watch for show, close bleeder valve, release pedal. Repeat.)Move to the driver rear, then passenger front then driver front. There is considerable debate regarding the need a frequency to flush and bleed your brake system. Double click PDF to open:
Add fresh brake fluid to reservoir as you flush and bleed system.
Take special note of page 3 of the brake bleeding procedure document "Additional Procedure to Bleed New Calipers with Integral Park Brake Mechanism" Follow this process for both rear calipers starting with the passenger rear caliper.
At this time I did not feeling it was necessary, however on my '04 XJ VDP it was time. The fluid looked dark and blackish. If after completing the brake job if the strong brake pedal doesn't come back then bleed the entire system.
After following the rear bleeding procedure and completing the front calipers you are satisfied that no bubbles are in the system and the fluid is now clean mount the tires. Lower the vehicle and chock the wheels. Torque wheel nuts to 90 Ft.lbs.
Tip: With the ceramic pads you will have virtually no dust on the wheels, but the inside of the wheels no doubt are still caked with semi-metallic brake dust. My tip is to wash the inside of the wheels before you re-install them, since that that grime will wash out over time and mess up your nice wheels.
Reset Electronic Rear Parking Brake:
Follow the procedure on pages 3 and 4 in the attached PDF file Electronic Parking Brake Calibration. It is critical to calibrate the parking brake system after any brake work. While the electronic parking brake does not automatically engage when the car is placed in Park like on earlier model XJ's, I utilized the same procedure. Double click to open:
After completing calibration process you are done. Remove Wheel Chocks! Take a test drive, if brake pedal is soft. Re-bleed the entire system using the special procedure for the rear calipers and then the front. After successful test drive top off brake fluid. Save this procedure for after your next 40K miles of fun driving.
Tools needed::
1. The most difficult thing or tool to acquire is a 9 mm 3/8" Drive Hex Bit/ Allen Head Socket, Complete sets of Metric Hex Bits Sockets do not include this size and while they appear to be sold in increments of 1 mm they skip from 8 mm to 10 mm. After driving all over town not finding any and searching the internet, I ordered two types from my local NAPA Auto parts store and picked them up the next morning. You should also be aware that the 9 mm Hex Bits listed below are longer than standard which makes it easier to reach the bolt and around obstructions. I would highly recommend these two:
Socket, 3/8"; 9 mm; Impact; Hex Bit Metric- Product Number: NPT 613109, Price: $5.99
Bit Socket, 3/8"; 9 mm; Hex Bit Socket- Product Number: NHT NBH209M, Price: $3.30
Link to - NAPA 9 mm Hex Bit Sockets
2. You will also need a readily available 7 mm 3/8" Drive Hex Bit/ Allen Head Socket, which is included with a 3/8" drive Metric Hex Bit/ Allen set.
3. 3/8" ratchet with a long handle- preferred
4. 3/8" torque wrench
5. Torx size T-25 screw driver
6. Heavy dead-blow or brass hammer and a large pry type screw driver
7. A large C-Clamp to compress the front calipers or they can be compressed with the kit listed in #8.
8. The special tool set designed for retracting the rear calipers with their integral parking brake feature. This tool is available for free loan or purchase at AutoZone parts stores (OEM Disc Brake Caliper Tool Set for $60.00 Part Number: 27111), or Amazon.com for purchase. The rear calipers particular to the Jaguar requires this tool, which rotates and threads the pistons back into the caliper on vehicles with self-adjusting parking brakes. Without this special piston rewinding tool, servicing the rear brakes is almost impossible.
Link to AutoZone Brake Tool
9. A good floor jack and jack stands
Replacement Parts:
There are many ultra-high performance brake parts available that are extremely expensive, however I don't go racing this car. I would grade my use as "normal" city and then highway/interstate driving in the range of 60-75 MPH.
Ceramic Pads are the way to go. The Total Brake job on my 04 XJ VDP and now my 2011 XF SC with ceramic pads work great and virtually no dust. Semi-metallic brake pads are more abrasive and wear rotors faster. I have found more rotor wear and brake dust using semi-metallic pads, not less rotor wear. Ceramic pads cause less rotor wear and less visible dust.
Since they were first used on a few original applications in 1985, friction materials that contain ceramic formulations have become recognized for their desirable blend of traits. These pads use ceramic compounds and copper fibers in place of the semi-metallic pad's steel fibers. This allows the ceramic pads to handle high brake temperatures with less heat fade, provide faster recovery after the stop, and generate less dust and wear on both the pads and rotors. And from a comfort standpoint, ceramic compounds provide much quieter because the ceramic compound helps dampen noise by generating a frequency beyond the human hearing range.
Another characteristic that makes ceramic materials attractive is the absence of noticeable dust. All brake pads produce dust as they wear. The ingredients in ceramic compounds produce a light colored dust that is much less noticeable and less likely to stick to the wheels. Consequently, wheels and tires maintain a cleaner appearance longer.
Ceramic pads meet or exceed all original equipment standards for durability, stopping distance and noise. According to durability tests, ceramic compounds extend compared to most other semi-metallic and organic materials and outlast other premium pad materials by a significant margin - with no sacrifice in noise control, pad life or braking performance.
Basically I think the evolution of ceramic pads is an engineering improvement over past materials and they don't eat rotors they save them.
I found a 4-Wheel Set Ceramic Brake Pads #271010622898 that fit perfectly and cost in the range of $116.00 shipped are usually available on from Brake Labs.
Link: Brake Labs Ceramic Pads for XF SC & XFR I installed these and have no problems. Including any squeaking or break in issues.
EBC RED STUFF #DP32076C FRONT PADS, #DP32059C REAR, appears to be the only higher cost 4-wheel ceramic pads available for my 2011 XF-SC and XFR 5.0.
Link to EBC Red Brake Pads all four wheels $257.50 shipped. The EBC Red pads are for normal driving. EBC Yellow pads are for racing or track days and are not designed for daily driving.
A t 12K miles my front and rear rotors are still in perfect condition or they would have to be resurfaced or instead just replace them. The rear brakes usually last longer, however in this model the electric parking park is integrated into the rear calipers and the piston must be threaded back into the bore to retract unlike the front calipers which can move straight back into the bore when released. The characteristic may cause the rear brakes to drag slightly causing more wear. You will notice that the rear calipers are much harder to pull off the rotors than the front when removing.
There are two Brake Pad wear sensors that snap on to the Left Front inboard pad and fit into the rattle spring on the Right Rear inboard pad. They had not made contact with the rotors, so I just snapped them on to the new pads. If they are worn and you have gotten a brake wear warning, then they must be replaced at a cost of $75 to $90 each OEM. (Note: 2009 Models do not have this sensor)
Link for Brake Pad Sensors: http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13631818512562
Supplies:
Two cans of brake cleaner spray and a quart of DOT4 brake fluid, Locktite thread locker or similar product and plastic tubing to drain fluid when bleeding brakes. You may invest in a "one-man brake bleeder" or get a friend, a glass jar and duct tape to bleed them.
Safety First: Always wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves to protect you from brake fluid and dust. Always use jack stands to support the car when the wheels are removed. Always chock the tires and use a floor jacket to lift the vehicle. Never climb under the vehicle under any circumstances.
First:
Get all the parts, tools and supplies. Take your time and be safe. It's actually very easy to complete with the right tools.
Before lifting the car remember first chock the wheels, now you are ready to slightly loosen the wheel lug nuts then jack the vehicle. Open the hood and open the cap to the brake fluid reservoir located under the cover on the drivers-side above the firewall. You can do one wheel at a time or all by using four jack stands.
Front Wheels:
Remove tire. Place a pan under the brake assembly and flush the grim off with brake cleaner.
Remove the spring loaded rattle clip located on the middle of the outboard side of the caliper. Remove the two 9 mm socket/Allen head slide pin bolts. They are located on the top and bottom of the inboard side of the caliper and you must remove the black rubberized cap that encloses the caliper slide pin bolts to access them.
Remove the caliper from the rotor. It may bind slightly, use a dead-blow or brass hammer to knock or pry it back off the rotor. Support caliper. These calipers and rotors are huge/massive.
On the drivers or left-side front there is a "Wear Sensor" that snaps straight into a notch on the outside edge of the inboard pads. If worn and has cause a "Brakes Worn" warning light it needs to be replaced. If not worn snap into the slot on the new inboard pad. If reusing, take care to notice that a small clip may come off the sensor and stick to the notch in the old pad. Remove it then place it back on the sensor and snap it onto new pad.
On the XF SC and XFR the brakes are massive and especially the rotors. If the rotors look perfect and you are not replacing them then you can skip this step and save a lot of time. Nice rotors look nice and flat with no pits, flaking or grooves in them. You can scuff them up if you would like. If the rotors show signs of heavy wear or you have a pulsating pedal replace the rotors. Re-machining cost is significant and really not worth it. Just replace the rotors. Remove the two bolts holding the caliper mounting bracket to the vehicle. The bolts have thread locker applied and are difficult to remove. You may need a lot of effort and the dead blown hammer or a impact ratchet/gun to loosen them. After removing the caliper bracket. Remove the retaining clips around the wheel studs that hold the rotor to the hub. Snap them or break them off. The rotor should just pull off. If not spray around the joint between the rotor and the hub with penetrating oil. Then use your hammer to persuade it off.
If you are replacing rotors there a lot of choices. With include drilled and or slotted. I prefer the look of theses big rotors without hole and slots. The choice is yours. I have used Centric Rotors on my 2004 XJ VDP with great results.
There are Centric rear rotors available here for $146.00 each.
Link: Centric Rear Rotors #125.20031 and fronts for $205.00 each
Link: Centric Front Rotors #125.20030. About $700.00 a set of 4.
There also are this set of four drilled and slotted rotors available for $867.00.
Link: PREMIUM-SERIES-DRILLED-SLOTTED-Rotors
Compress the pistons straight back into the front caliper using an old disc brake pad and a C-clamp or utilizing the brake service kit that you will definitely need for the rear calipers. Clean the thread locker from the Caliper Mounting Bolts with a wire brush. Install the new disc. Apply thread locker to the caliper mounting bolts and torque to 135 Ft.lbs. Remove any clips from old pads and install on new pads. Make sure slide pins which have rubber boots around them on the caliper mounting brackets are free and lubricated. Install the pads on to the caliper mounting bracket with pad material contacting/ facing the rotor. Slide caliper over pads then install caliper mounting bolts torque to 25 Ft-lbs. and reinstall the rubber caps.
Rear Wheels:
Rear wheel procedure is the same as the front expect for the use of a 7 mm 3/8" Drive Hex Bit/ Allen Head Socket in additional complications caused by the electric parking park system. The cable attached to the rear calipers should be in a relaxed, non-tension condition. If not follow the procedure to release the parking brake.
First remove the anti-rattle spring and the flat cover attached with two Torx T-25 screws found on the outboard side of the caliper. You will need a 7 mm 3/8 drive Hex Bit/Allen Head Socket to remove the caliper slide pin mounting bolts.
On the passenger or right-side rear there is a "Wear Sensor" that fits into the anti-rattle spring and then into the notch on the outside edge of the inboard pad. You have to remove the spring from the pad then insert the sensor into the center of the spring, then replace the spring with the sensor into the notch on the inboard pad. If the sensor is worn and has cause a "Brakes Worn" warning light it needs to be replaced.
After removing the rear caliper, the piston is retracted by using the Special piston retraction tool which threads the piston back into the bore. The pins on the tool engage holes in the face of the piston which allow ot to thread in. Do Not Attempt to press the rear caliper piston straight into the bore. It will be ruined. Use the proper tool and it takes seconds, without it you're screwed. Note: When using the Auto Zone Brake Tool, NO adapter from the kit is needed to fit the holes in the face of the piston. (See picture below on left)
If required remove the caliper bracket and rotor using the same procedure as the front wheel. Clean Caliper mounting bracket bolts, install rotor, apply thread locker and mount caliper bracket. Install brake pads and caliper same as front wheel. Slide caliper over pads then install caliper mounting bolts torque to 25 Ft-lbs. and reinstall the rubber caps.
Flushing Bleeding Brake System:
Follow factory brake bleeding procedure in attached PDF file Jag Brake Bleeding. To flush the entire system start at the passenger rear and continue the pressing the brake pedal to pump the fluid through the system while opening and closing the bleeder valve until clean brake fluid can be seen exiting the bleeder tube and no bubbles are present. (Press pedal down to floor then open valve, watch for show, close bleeder valve, release pedal. Repeat.)Move to the driver rear, then passenger front then driver front. There is considerable debate regarding the need a frequency to flush and bleed your brake system. Double click PDF to open:
Add fresh brake fluid to reservoir as you flush and bleed system.
Take special note of page 3 of the brake bleeding procedure document "Additional Procedure to Bleed New Calipers with Integral Park Brake Mechanism" Follow this process for both rear calipers starting with the passenger rear caliper.
At this time I did not feeling it was necessary, however on my '04 XJ VDP it was time. The fluid looked dark and blackish. If after completing the brake job if the strong brake pedal doesn't come back then bleed the entire system.
After following the rear bleeding procedure and completing the front calipers you are satisfied that no bubbles are in the system and the fluid is now clean mount the tires. Lower the vehicle and chock the wheels. Torque wheel nuts to 90 Ft.lbs.
Tip: With the ceramic pads you will have virtually no dust on the wheels, but the inside of the wheels no doubt are still caked with semi-metallic brake dust. My tip is to wash the inside of the wheels before you re-install them, since that that grime will wash out over time and mess up your nice wheels.
Reset Electronic Rear Parking Brake:
Follow the procedure on pages 3 and 4 in the attached PDF file Electronic Parking Brake Calibration. It is critical to calibrate the parking brake system after any brake work. While the electronic parking brake does not automatically engage when the car is placed in Park like on earlier model XJ's, I utilized the same procedure. Double click to open:
After completing calibration process you are done. Remove Wheel Chocks! Take a test drive, if brake pedal is soft. Re-bleed the entire system using the special procedure for the rear calipers and then the front. After successful test drive top off brake fluid. Save this procedure for after your next 40K miles of fun driving.
Last edited by edobernig; 07-06-2014 at 07:59 AM.
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#4
11-29-2012, 01:49 PM
Don't be mean, but if there is some typo's
I have been working on this for days. It's not so easy posting so if I made a couple of typos let me know and I'll correct them. When it looks good I'll request its moved to "HOW TO" Thanks 
#7
11-29-2012, 08:40 PM
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#8
11-30-2012, 09:12 AM
I would assume the basic procedure is the same, however the parts numbers will be different for the pads and rotors. I like said the brakes are massive right out of a F-350 pickup truck or something. I did not have my NA XF 5.0 long enough to change out the pads, I am not sure if the front calipers have dual pistons.
#11
12-05-2012, 10:52 AM
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#14
05-14-2013, 07:16 AM
#15
05-14-2013, 07:26 AM
I recommend using the right tool for the job
When using the tool pictured, no adapter from the kit is required to fit the holes in the face of the piston and it takes a couple second to rotate it in. Plus, if you are bleeding the rear calipers, you may need to retract them multiple times, as shown in the attachments, to completely expel air in the system.
#18
06-06-2013, 10:35 PM
The EBC Red should have the same notches as OEM
The EBC Red are very popular replacements and they will have the same notches to accept wear sensors as OEM.
#19
06-07-2013, 08:12 AM
Thanks for the info,i have a xf without sc,the brake job was the same as a standard gm or ford.I would like to add that one of the reason you bleed the system is that over time brake fluid absorbs moisture. I go one step further and use a suction gun and pull out the fluid from the resevoir once a year.Replace with DOT 4 only. Note: use a clean suction gun!!! Also clean the rust from the pad slide area and apply a very small thin coat of antiseize. Dont get any on the pads or rotor! Use dielectric compound on the caliper slide pins.
One more note: If you have never done a brake job before,get help from somebody who knows. I watched the owners son do his brakes,he did good until he applied grease to the pads "to make them last longer". I am glad i was there.
One more note: If you have never done a brake job before,get help from somebody who knows. I watched the owners son do his brakes,he did good until he applied grease to the pads "to make them last longer". I am glad i was there.
#20
06-09-2013, 11:35 AM