So I wired up my Phillips DRL's and have had them on for about a week... Car has been running and starting fine, drove it last night, no worries.

Went out this am - no start, said low battery? Hooked up the ohm meter, battery said 12V on it ???????? - tried jumping it with my boxes - NADA...so I called AAA, guy came in a truck, hooked it up - whammo - starts.

Then the battery light stays on - so I take it to the dealer...they call and YEP YOU GUESSED IT...traced my battery issue to the aftermarket DRL's. Bitches came back and said that because the fuse box is always on, the DRL's were drawing a current and that current draw flattened the battery...but yeah -- wait for it...battery registered 12V before I called AAA.

After a "explain why I wouldn't always have a dead battery?" discussion - where I used their simple logic against them - I gave in, said I will take the DRL's off and monitor the issue.

SO.............for those of you who haves installed the DRL's - which fuse did you tap into? I did the ACC 5amp one, figuring no way the computer is looking at that one when the vehicle is off!!!

Sorry for the rant, and looking fwd to the responses!

 

Jonesy, if you can get me a set of diagrams for your car, I will look them over and tell you where to get your power from. I am sure I can find something to make the lights do exactly what you want them to.

 

Chris that is mighty fine of you....but I have no idea where to get the diagrams!

I am going to tap into the accessory fuse slot...the one for the cig guy lighter and see if that does it. Otherwise I don't know what else to do! I know I am not the first to do this. And it just seems weird how my battery was supposedly fully charged but wouldn't start

 

A battery can show 12 volts with no load, but still fail to supply power when under load. A better test is to read the voltage with the headlamps on, and then with the starter engaged.

You seem to have a meter, so just check the place you intend to tie the lights. If it has no voltage with the car off, then things connectede there do not draw current. If it does, the dealer is possibly right.

 

The dealer told me, I do find the answer puzzling, that the computer in the car will "check" systems when the car is off - thereby putting power to the fuse block, and creating a charge.

They are saying that this check is causing the DRL's to go on - and thereby draining the battery.

I just feel like it is a load of BS

 

Hi….I installed the Phillips and I tapped the main fuse box (under the hood) at the one used for leveling the headlights (on only when the ignition is on)…..been working for a long time and no serious battery drain.

 

well after going back and forth with a few - there are only 3-5 fuses that actually go "dead" when the car is off. Most of them still carry a load after the car is off and locked. The self leveling fuse continues to carry a load as well, albeit small - I measured .2V until it is off for a while. Then it goes to zero.

So yes...tap into that one if needed! Problem solved. Dealer will not ell you that.