Thanks @MoJo88 & @Jaaaggg for the links.

Update:
Got the car off the jacks and on the ground. First few test drives have been a success!

To Recap, I did the following so far:Got the car back together, did a vac draw on the system and filled with new 50/50 Prestone Dex-Cool. Took about 4gal so I think I had it close to empty. I opened the bleed screw before starting the car, and filled the res until fluid came out. Then started the car without the cap, bleeder closed and heater on. Air got hot in less than 2min, so I threaded on the cap and revved it out for 7-8min at 2k rpm (Neighbors loved that I am sure). Let it cool and added maybe a few ounces to get back to max. First test drive went without a hiccup and the car ran buttery smooth. Man is this thing faster than my sportbrake! Took some more coolant as I used the heat again and drove it hard. Will check tomorrow but hopefully it stays now. Zero smell or steam so feeling great about getting ahead of that water pump failure.

I decided against running the ZZP s/c coupler. Thanks to some active discussion on the isolator recall thread, and some polling on FB done by @VicVegas84 I decided any potential benefit from the solid unit didn't outweigh the risk for me. And apparently, may not reduce the sounds either. My stock unit did have some play, more than just the spring play. So I felt good about running a new OEM part in there. This meant pulling the S/C off TWICE, and scraping and reapplying that anaerobic stuff 2x in one week. Oh well. Now I know the torque sequence of that upper manifold cover by heart, lol.

Next on the list: Trans & Diff fluid, Brake fluid, and Fuel filter. Then do some DRIVING before the snow comes.

Feel free to ping me with any questions or more info. I took a lot of pics so I am happy to share more.

The best way to service the back of the engine? Stand in the bay!


New Pump and URO Connector tube installed:


Symposer Solenoid capped & tied on the new heater manifold/rear x-over pipe.


New Radiator w/ Fresh Foam, and upgraded aluminum intercooler




New stuff getting installed (t-stat and some hoses, belts)


Setting up the Ecav/Fill system


All done and ready to RIP!

 

You're welcome. Glad to have been a small part of this. I absolutely take my hat off to you on the amount of work you've done to Karli and to the documentation of it all. Keep doing what you're doing bro!

 

Great job! You finished it.
Is the foam a factory part number? I have replaced it on several cars but always just made my own from foam I scrounged up.
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Ok so how much total did all of this cost.

 

Yes - the side panels are C2Z9511 & C2Z9512. The strip across the top is XR838379 (but this is labeled side seal, and did not go across the entire top of my rad like the stock one did, might not be correct) I will likely source my own foam to optimize the top. All pieces come with new adhesive backings and fit great.

I am about $4k into this car so far in parts. Radiator was $350, I/C was $1400 (I overpaid) and hoses/pump/plastic were about $1500. The rest of my parts - coupler, fluids, filters, gaskets, plugs & belts were about another 500-750. I am still sorting out the Aux Pump mod as the Bosch does not fit my car. Figure another $450 there based on my initial research.

 

Yesterday I performed my diff fluid service. I used Ravenol MDL fluid, purchased from Blauparts.com Hardest part was accessing the fill plug, as it is very close to the rear subframe. Used a long 8mm hex socket and extension and went thru the lower control arm, alongside the axle. For filling, I used a hand transfer pump, some hose, and a 5/16' vacuum tee fitting with a cap on the end.

My quick jack (BL-5000SLX) is too short for the ideal pinch weld placement on this car, bummer And my ramps were too tall to clear the front bumper. I backed onto the ramps, then used two jacks simultaneously at each front location until the car was level. This gave me enough room to do it, but 2ft off the ground or a red lift makes this job simple.



Drain plug had some sludge on it



Here is the fluid I used, and a comparison of new VS old. About 1.15L came out, and the manual calls for 1.25L fill. It also states the fill plug is not a level indicator, but as I got to about 1.25, some fluid started to come out of the fill anyway. So I let that happen for about 10min, and then put the fill plug back in. I am sending the diff fluid to Blackstone for analysis, I find it to be really thick, almost like a malt or gravy like. It did not pour as freely into my waste jug, and the comparison speaks for itself. This is 45k mi, if you are reading this, CHANGE YOUR FLUID. Curious to see what the analysis comes back with.



Was going to try and tackle the trans service next, but without my quick jack I don't think I want to do this on my back. I am likely going to outsource that one to my local shop. I also purchased fluid & filter from Blauparts.com for that job.

 

Yes the rear diff fluid change is a must. Thankfully Jaguar provided a drain and fill plug so pretty easy to do.
Here is the oil change on my 2014 XJR. I used Redline 75W90 #57904 oil. Note this is for the E-diff ONLY!
XJR Rear Diff Oil Change
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Couple Fall pics - trying to get some seat time in this car before the snow falls. Also, got new plates in to match the sport brake.

 

Could I get the reason as to why you used T2R16360 instead of T2R10142? As T2R10142 is the last revision in the chain of supersession for the X250.

 

Congratulations. What an amazing job!!

 

Very nice Devin,

I got personalised plates for my XF Jaguar. In Australia we have a range of different styles like other countries including what is referred to as Euro Style plates.

 

best reason I can give - ignorance! I just added it to cart and didn’t think twice about it as I didn’t know there was a revision. Part number on the belt itself reads DX23-8620-AA. Any idea what the revision is for? Should I ordered an updated one?

 

Ahh, okay, in that case you did actually order T2R10142 (DX23-8620-AA). Which would've been the only version on your year, so you're good. I have a 2012 XFR and it is one version under this one. It's C2P12815 (9W83-8620-AA).

They might've realised you were ordering for an XFR-S and sent you the correct part.

 

This thread basically encapsulates everything that I need to do to my rig after a 3-year hibernation. Huge thanks to everyone who has contributed!!!

 

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. The RS officially saw snow for the first time in its life the other day (albeit in my driveway)





Also took the car to a local dyno day, glad I got to do this before doing any major mods. 476rwhp and 482rwtq. Anyway, this seems about on par for stock figures if you assume somewhere around 15% drivetrain loss. I only have K&N drop-in's and the paramount intercooler. Car did 3 back to back runs, 5th gear, and runs 2-3 made about 5-10hp less, so the car does start to suffer a bit, but overall I was happy with it since I have done so much lately. Good to know it is performing, the graph is quite linear for HP and flat for torque, explains why it drives so well! Let me know your thoughts on it! I know some RS dyno's put down more, and that Jag may have underrated them, but cant speak from experience on those. Just happy it was putting down healthy stuff.



Also got my ZF8 trans fluid and pan swapped before the holiday. So I sent a sample to Blackstone to see what they have to say. I have already received my reports for engine oil & s/c oil (both came back fine), and differential (came back somewhat scary). Will upload all 4 once I get the trans one back so we can discuss as a group! lol

 

Dyno video is up - still learning my camera, mic, and final cut (just started) but pretty happy with the results. I trimmed the clips to capture the good stuff, the pulls were not done in rapid succession.

 

Can't wait to see results after tune, pulley, etc. She sounds great

 

Oil reports received from Blackstone for the Trans, Engine, E-Diff, and Supercharger oils. I made a separate thread for them, but will attach them here too for anyone following along. E-DIff is the only concerning one, and it functions fine from what I can tell.

 

make sure your son become a member here!!! Nice car!

 

Great work on the XFR-S keep the post coming!!!!!! Sweet car