Bump for a stand-up guy! Devin and I couldn't quite close the deal on a sale, but I can't say enough good things about Devin. An absolutely solid citizen, answered all my questions, provided tons of info, pics, vids, etc. and was just a pleasure to do business with so to speak.

Someone buy this beauty from Devin! Please prevent me from raiding the kiddos college fund in order to add this to the herd.

 

Thank you! Dont know how I just saw this.

Well - I have officially pulled the listing down, after almost 12mo of loosely trying to sell this car, I have come to terms that the market/appeal for them is not quite matched to my value, and fortunately, we are in a position now where we can afford to keep it in the fleet. So, let it be known - I have decided to keep Karli, and I am not unhappy about it. While my daily driver has changed to my V60 I still LOVE driving this car, and will enjoy having it as an extra. I have been doing lots of driving in it since spring and it never disappoints.

This week I replaced the front tires, and I have ordered F&R sway links, and rear toe links / tie rods. Once all that is on I will get the car aligned for hopefully some summer fun. Next on the list is a refresh of idler's & tensioners, and a full brake job. Not sure how "deep" I want to go into upgrades vs just replacing pads & rotors, but I am open to suggestions from anyone who has swapped over to anything on their XFR/R-S or other large rotor Jag. Options seem to range from OEM, aftermarket-OE, to full kits from VAP/Rotora/Wraptor. Not sure what I need per se.

None of my posts complete without some pics right?

 

Welcome back DeviLSh! I am sure glad to see you again!
I know what you mean about car values and Jaguar.

If interested in some nice two piece rotors and bigger discs the F-Type guys have a number of threads about them. Several different brands out now too.
Big Brakes

VAP has an expensive SC belt tensioner upgrade if that's what you meant by tensioner?
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I really like the idea of R4-S pads and VAP's 2pc rotors for weight savings. But on the other hand - I dont track this, nor do I feel like it "needs" extra anything haha. So the price/value is giving me pause. I might stretch the brake job to Black Friday and see if there are deals.

I was planning on just refreshing every idler, belt, and tensioner. VAP does have a new tension design but I was I under the impression that was for the harrop kit, or dual-pulley cars as the change in pulley size hurts tension.

 

I talked to VAP and the improved tensioner is recommended for all cars. But it's $600!

Don't know if you saw what the big problem was?
The gear driven vacuum pump is on the front of the engine and has plastic vacuum lines running to the power brakes. If the tensioner fails it's common for the belt to take out this tubing causing the PB to fail. Next problem (I have NOT verified this yet!) is apparently you almost can't stop the car without vacuum. Usually it's not a big deal and you will need to press harder on the brake pedal. But again talking to someone who had this happen he said it was a near accident and if he had not been driving slowly he was not sure he could have gotten the car stopped.

Also note that VAP has a electric vacuum pump out now to bypass all these potential problems. Again they recommend this as a safety precaution no matter if the car is modified or not.
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Thanks for the recap, I knew there was more than the performance aspect. But I also dont know how common that is? Seems like a lit to spend on a contingency plan. I wanted to just refresh all the idlers, belts, and tensioners. Euroamp has good prices but I am not sure if it's OEM quality or not.

This week my links and rear tie rods came in. I got the fronts done today, 45min per side at a leisurely pace with a floor jack. I had to use a second jack to compress the suspension to get the front sway links in & out easily, as well as do final torque specs under load. The lower arm bushings, U & L ball joints, and Upper control arms bushings all looked great up front. As were theater tie rods. The stock links (58k now) definitely had more play in them than the new item so a warranted repair, but they were by no means "shot". We shall see how the rear stuff looks when it comes out.

Front pads are down to the last 3mm or so, so I'll likely be committing to brakes sooner rather than later.

 

Rear Toe links, Sway Links done - 4-wheel alignment done after. Car feels great. Next on the list - engine mounts. I have some noticeable engine vibrations, and rough on/off throttle symptoms, occasional downshifts also feel a little jerky.

 

Stop making me think about what's uner my car !
(Joking)

I just want to hit the gas in the Summer sun.

 

HAHA - every time I poke around the car I find something else to fix, Highly recommend just driving it to avoid this conundrum

 

Those two items WILL be worn out! Rear toe links and the rear sway bar end links too. But as posted above it's not too hard of a job to replace them. Plus not a huge amount of cost either. I think I had about $200 in parts.

I find the rear toe link connection in the center of the car to be the toughest and I had to work a bit to get it off and on.
DeviLSh do you have any suggestions/tricks for that?
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Not really, It was tight but manageable. Just used an offset wrench to break it loose, then a ratcheting wrench to complete the job while counter holding with a smaller (I think 7mm?) wrench to keep the stud from spinning with the nut.

 

Thanks and that's about what I did. Somewhat of a battle.
Your in salt country so I thought you might have had a harder time getting things apart.
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No major updates here - we had some family matters, and a move. So Its been a "dry" summer here in terms of car stuff.

I am still looking into Brake Upgrades/replacements, but mileage is building so slowly, I have no urgency or pressure here. Im still just above wear limits all around and no noise yet, but that doesnt mean the itch is scratched.

I have new rear door fixed glass seals coming, along with annual oil change kit.

Right before we moved - I had a PDR specialist come by and pull my front fenders out where they meet the lower front door edge and side skirt. The car has had this slight bend(s) on each side since I acquired it, and it has bothered me so I finally got it addressed. It is one of those minor things that mean a lot to me, so I am feeling good about getting it taken care of. The tech also had some non metallic white touch up paint so he addressed a slight chip at the bend location, and some minor bumper chips located where the hood met the bumper from slamming the hood shut. Finally, he was able to pull out a minor dent behind the rear door handle! Ecstatic about this actually.

I have 2 questions in the event anyone who visits this page has answers:
1) Are the front kunckles/uprights the same on the XFR and XFR-S? I remember media saying so, but the part catalogs are putting the XFR part number as the same as R-S.
2) Does anyone have or know of good footage/audio of the Ardent rear exhaust on an R-S? After 4 years with this car I am kinda craving more sound, but would love for it to be switchable so I can keep civility when desired, like morning cold starts.

-Devin

 

Glad to see you still on the forum. Waiting for further updates too!
One sharp car and I also found the PDF guys to be very skilled.

I find no parts breakout for the XFR or the XFR-S on the front hub carrier/Vertical Link in JPART. There are a number of different part numbers depending on the last 6 digits of the cars VIN.








I have not run these part numbers but from experience after a few years Jaguar usually collapses and supersedes everything to one part number.
See if these numbers help any?
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Hi Devin, Yes I've been on the quiet side in recent times as we moved from Melbourne on the east coast back to Perth on the West Coast. That meant driving Kitty 5,200km across Australia. We made it a holiday so took 17 days. Had to bring my other car a 2018 Volvo S90T6 as well, so it was quite an impressive sight seeing two immaculate saloons in convoy getting lots of attention at fuel stops along the way. The XF (now just turned 17) performed flawlessly in temperatures as high as 42C a testament to keeping the cars in topnotch condition, Our longest section was 1300km which included Australia's longest section of arrow straight road at the Eyre Highway across the Nullarbor Plain between Balladonia and Caiguna in Western Australia. This iconic stretch measures approximately 146.6 kilometers (91 miles) without a single curve and is a well-known feature for drivers crossing the vast, treeless landscape of the Nullarbor.

On arrival had the car checked out with my new independent Jag specialist who has been servicing and restoring Jaguars since 1965. Not one single problem!!!

 

For brakes I have been running RS slotted Brakenetic G3500 iron rotors, that have been cryo treated. This makes the rotors last 3X longer without warping. For pads I am running EBC Bluestuff NDX in the front and Yellowstuff in the rear. They are decent but dust a lot. I wanted to run the Porterfield R4 this time but time and availability I could only get the EBC. The best stock setup we can get would be a cryo'd racing brake floating with R6 or R8 GLOC pad set and torque700 fluid IMO. Best BBK is AP Racing 5000R Pro. Performance Friction is good too. Second tier would be Paragon or PB Brakes with the steel piston option. Here are the range of choices:


Centric makes a high quality solid rotor front and rear for the stock setup.

Brakenetic makes a high carbon G3500 rotor setup for XFR

Stoptech makes a solid rotor setup and slotted

DBA makes slotted rotor setup

RacingBrake makes an excellent floating rotor for the XFR with the best metallurgy when cryo'd

Spires makes a floating rotor setup

Wortec makes a floating rotor setup- the lightest rotors you can get sans carbon ceramic.

Velocity AP makes a floating rotor as well

As far as pads, here are the range of performance pads available on stock brakes:

Porterfield R4 Race Compound

Porterfield R4S

EBC Yellowstuff

EBC Bluestuff NDX just on the fronts

Mintex

G-LOC compound R6-R18 <- Best Pad Range for any braking need mild to wild

Best Brake Fluid for HPDE Track Day Chart:

Torque700- Highest Dry Boiling Point 683F

Halo Orthene P1- Track use only

Wilwood XR

Motul RBF700

Castrol React SRF- Highest Wet Boiling Point 518F

 

@clubairth1

OEMJaguar Parts online is showing the same pat# for XFR/XFR-S: HERE

JaguarLandRoverClassic (My fav place to find part#'s) is showing the same part # under their XFR-S distinction (but not same as XFR) HERE

I still dont understand how the T2H numbers and the 8XWx... prefix part numbers translate over to what's on the other sites. The parts themselves dont seem to ever have the catalog part#'s on them.

I am looking at acquiring a spare front knuckle from an R-S (or XFR) in order to see if I can have a custom caliper bracket made for aftermarket fixed calipers (Wildwood, brembo, etc) that are compatible with the OEM rotor sizes.

 

BJS - thanks for this fantastic list! I appreciate you taking the time to type and link all these out. I didnt know that Racing Brake made rotors for the Jag platform! I actually ran a RB BBK on our last project car, a MK1 Audi TT 3.2! I loved how light the setup was but I didnt love their provided pads, I ended up running G-LOC's on that car and kit.

The Paragon stuff is also good - I bought their BBK for my X260 and fun fact - they made their rear 2pc rotors for the x260 because of me! I already reached out and they said they only have castings for the rear rotors at this time, and the XF X260 / XE BBK wont fit the x250 - different mountings I suppose.

I am not seeing a Jag kit for the APRacing link, nothing for Jaguar at all on the site. I have come across PB before, but the products look like they might be off-branded or cheaper. Do you have primary experience with these?

 

Yes these later part numbers seem to deviate from how Jaguar use to do part numbers.
The T2H is so different.
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I got quoted $8332 for an AP Racing 5000R Pro kit from Essex about a year ago. It does not come with mounting brackets. I would have a machine shop make some. If you PM me I can send you the quote with part numbers. The rest would be up to you ATM, however I am working on getting a bracket made here locally and sell a couple of kits for our cars in the next 8-12 months. It's coming. It takes so long to get things made and perfected and mass produced married with kids. The PB brakes BBK has the brackets already, maybe I could just buy theirs and see how many setups can attach to it. They have optional steel pistons, they have HT silicone seals and boots, so I have to give them props for that, but I do think they are made overseas. I have heard other car brand owners use them and say they are good quality but I cannot attest to that personally or whether they will hold up to a 20 min HPDE session (my benchmark). I just know what materials make a good BBK, and they seem to have that going for them.

Stoptech, Brembo, KSPORT and CEIKA has aluminum pistons which isn't good for a heavy car like ours. The aluminum transfers the heat right into the fluid. Rubber seals on the Brembo and CIEKA will melt above 250 degrees F and we can get the brakes that hot just driving in traffic. I would only rock steel or the best titanum pistons and even have them ceramic coated. HT Silicone or ePTFE seals only. From there, good fluid like Torque700 and a GLOC pad would finish off the setup with cryo treated rotors. I don't want to spend thousands changing out the cheap OEM slide lock caliper system just to have the same problems with an expensive BBK replacements later. I can't recommend that to anyone. I want a install and forget about it situation which is why I unequivocally recommend AP Racing or PFC. They WILL handle the pressure and heat over time. It's just a matter of mounting.