If you look in the oil filler neck you see what looks like a small tube running down into the motor. I am wondering if that is in fact a way to check oil "analog," the old fashioned way? Maybe, just maybe that is a traditional dipstick tube. Now a special spring steel rod or something like a transmission stick is made for the job?

If it isn't it sure looks like a dip stick tube hidden from us lowly backyard mechanics.... stuck a section of Bailing wire down and feels like it bottomed out about 18" in. came up dry though, as far as I could tell.

What is it and what is it for then?

 

There was a recent thread on here discussing that tube. It sounds like it is designed to slip a hose down to suck out the oil...
So if that's true that means there is no dipstick and there is no drain plug!

 

Yep, it's an oil suction tube, for sucking out the old oil, and not a place to stick a dipstick.
But AFAIK most if not all XFs also have a drain plug, I've changed my oil twice now and used the drain plug each time.
I can't be bothered buying a suction machine to do it that way, and the general view is doing it the old fashioned drain plug way gets more of the old oil out than doing it the suction tube way.
Just involves jacking up the car a bit and removing the undertray, no big deal.

 

Ya, but...
If it is for sucking the oil up and out, that would imply that the bottom of the tube is in the bottom of the pan and you should get a reading of oil level at the bottom of the tube?

 

Depends on how far to the bottom that tube goes.

If it's only a 1/4 off the bottom, then you will only get a 1/4 of oil on your make shift dipstick even if the engine is overfilled.

That tube has to be pretty close to the bottom if it's going to get all the old oil out. If it's 3 inches from the bottom, you will leave 3 inches of oil in the pan.

 

Your all missing my point...
If it does go to the pan then you should be able to read the oil level with a wire inserted in the tube.

I tried it and came out dry though... so what is the tube for then? Anybody know for sure?

 

It was mentioned above the tube is to suck out the oil. As much as I hate someone else changing my oil in fact in my 17 years of driving I have always done my own oil changes. As long as my car is under warranty jag will be doing them for me. I know I am getting ripped of severely but the price of the oil change is cheaper than losing my warranty because I did not use the correct spec of oil.


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...estions-38867/

 

Some one needs to post a thread on how to properly change the oil in an XF.

 

This should end the discussion (look at the attached pdf)

 

A tube that is designed to evacuate oil by vacuum does not need to be straight and can have reasonably sharp bends or curves that could restrict the wire method you used. The wire may have "bottomed out" on a bend, hence coming out dry.

I have done, and will continue to do, more frequent oil changes than those recommended by the manufacturers as I do not believe change intervals of 26,000 kms is good for the mechanical reliability of my pride and joy. And when did oil suddenly take a quantum leap forward in durability? Anyway, that is for another topic.

Method I use is the same as described above (bottom tray removed, sump plug removed). This way I can ensure that most of the old oil is out before the fresh stuff goes in. However, this is all done while sipping coffee and nibbling cakes while my local mechanic does it on his hoist.

We are all learning about the intricacies of the inner Jaguar as we go about each service. Next learning will be the brake pad change!

 

Same here, I change my oil every 15,000 km (9,375 miles).
We both have the 3.0 diesel motor, and oil is even more critical in these motors than it is in the petrol motors. I use Penrite Enviro+ C-4 5W-30 full synthetic, I've been a fan of Penrite oils for years and the C-4 is the only one which meets the spec for the Jag 3.0 diesel. And as an added bonus it is relatively cheap, a fair bit less than the OEM Castrol stuff.

 

Nice, but there is another way....
(Look at the attached .pdf)
more of the "old fashioned way" of changing oil.

 

I change it every 5'000 miles because I'm out of my mind, and put Motul full synthetic too but hey, to each its own...

 

me too!

 

So, I finally found a diagram of the tube routing. follow this link, https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...o-found-63801/

File Type: JLR-V8 AJ133 5.0 liter engine Components&Systems[1].pdf

See diagram on page 2-44. Look closely and there are 90 degree bends at the end of the suction tube.
Not sure what I will find that will work to send down the tube to read the level... I will keep trying.
Attachment also gives the theory of how the oil level gauge works.

oh, and found this for oil changes, $50.00 You Tube it and you will find a video on its use - here it is.

LiquiVac Topsider Oil Changer | Oil Extractors| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

Those links are interesting.

I do wonder why the radar measurement of actual oil level in the sump is seen as somehow less reliable than a dipstick. Unless you park the car on level ground and check the oil at the right temperature a dipstick doesn't actually give you an accurate level reading at all. The radio transmitter method is not only reliable it is accurate and compensates for temperature. It even allows for angles and will not read if the angle is too extreme. It also monitors the oil level continuously. If the sensor cannot give a correct reading it gives no reading If it fails you take the car in for repair.

Oil change intervals for the 5.0 and 3.0SC gasoline engines are 24,000 km (15,000 miles) or one year. Synthetic oil is specified and the precise specification must be observed or the engine may be damaged.

You not only don't need a dipstick you shouldn't try to use one. You do not need to get "all the old oil out" and actually never did. You cannot remove about half a litre (or half a quart) anyway because it is in the oil galleries. Modern synthetic oils don't even wear out. You change the filter, primarily.

 

I agree, but have a slightly different point of view. On our '09 XF, since it DOES have a drain plug, I do all the oil changes, but the "belly pan" is a PITA to get on/off. And, at this point, the warranty is no longer a question, however, just in case it's ever a question, I always keep the end flap from the oil filter's box, with the date and mileage noted on it.


On our '12 XJ-L, the oil is drawn out, by that tube thing. Since I'm still under warranty, naturally I'll got to the dealer. HOWEVER, what the dealer charged me last year, was only about $20 more than what it would have cost me to buy the oil and filter, and do it myself....assuming the suction tool I have (for removing oil from marine engines) would do the job. SO, for the $20, I think it's worth it, to let them do it....

 

I guess you need The same kind of tools you need to do this on a smart. You have to put a tube in and drain The oil out with a plastic needle...😩