this is what I bought, I will look into that cable and check out jlr for software download. Thank you for the recommendations

 

when I bought this car I wasn't even looking for it, I was actually looking at dealerships for a specific type of Ford mustang (I'm fairly thorough and do my research when it comes to things im not familiar with) so the day i saw this gorgeous white 2013 jaguar xfr sparkling across the lot at me, i knee that was my car and several hours later i was driving her home. U comment on me knowing I wasn't going to be able to maintain it???? Thus car is mechanically sound top to bottom front to back, I've worked on cars my whole life so I knew that area was covered, now what I didn't know or expect was for how demanding and sensitive these cars electrical systems are and one slight wrong move could and will result in catastrophic failure. I'm not at all ok with having my car towed to a dealership so they can simply go off the TSB they have for the issue I describe I'm having and pay an exorbitantly high cost for completely unnecessary pulling of modules and replacing them when a quick and simple(for the pros) reprogramming is all that would be required.
u can't seriously be on here and tell me if u had your jag experience central locking/unlocking faults and were well past the warranty that u would take it in and pay upwards of $2700 American to fix the issue when u know it can be done for significantly less.

 

You are wrong. Almost no-one (except dealers) uses SDD (or has a need to).

If you want to, that's up to you and you've had plenty of info about what you can do (plus there's more if you Search).

 

Can you post a link to your power supply? The specs look good but no ripple measurement?

I think your approaching your XFR the right way? It's just a car with 4 wheels so if you have any DIY skills you just need to get some knowledge about your XFR and your in the EXACT right place. We have a tremendous knowledge base and some VERY top notch shade tree mechanics (That's not a hack term either but a compliment to what these guys have accomplished!!) along with at least 4 or 5 Jaguar dealer Tech's who weigh in now and again.

Now JagV8 bring up a good point and I think you already know the answer? If you decide to go down the SDD route that means your a very serious DIY guy and are willing to put the hours in reading and practicing on SDD. You also have agreed (whether you know it or not!) to the possibility of bricking your car while attempting this. What my understanding is it's almost impossible to do this permanently. It's always due to software problems and "should" be recoverable.

I have bricked a 2008 XJ while adding keys because the original owner only had one key. This requires you to erase ALL keys and start over. Well as you might guess "something" went wrong and after leaving the car and SDD on all night hoping it would finish I finally gave up and just powered the whole thing down. Now I had a car that the keys would turn in the ignition but not start the car.

I won't lie as I was sweating bullets for the couple of hours it took to recover the car and get all the keys programmed. It was not my car but a friends and the FOB was all beat to pieces and the Tibbe key was so worn it was loose in the ignition. Really way past replacement time!

You mention the Junction Box problem which is unique to the XF - I think 2013-2015? There has been reports of people using an Autel device to reset/fix the problem. Note that if the battery is swapped again the problem will come back and you need to reset it again. Jaguar's expensive solution is to replace 2 of the 3 junction boxes which we have been "told" fixes the problem permanently. I wish we could some info on what is exactly wrong in these junction boxes because Jaguar only replaces them and offers no repair info at all?

So you might consider the Autel device instead of SDD? Sorry I don't have a model number and if you have looked at Autel they have dozens of different models. They are also not cheap!
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I am a very serious person when it comes to this car and I certainly don't take the complexity of what I'm attempting to do lightly at all. All I have been doing is reading threads and different articles on the web, my girlfriend literally has to drag me away from my car or the computer. I research into something so deeply that in the end of that specific topic I'm more confused than when I started lol just a simple example is the power supply required
I initially thought why not just hook cables to a running vehicle, theres a constant supply then I look into it and some threads say how it's a horrible and stupid idea then others say they flashed modules for over 10 years and never once had to hook up to a power source then i read a thread related to my current issue and these guys were computer engineers like talking about stuff that made less than no sense to me and he hooked his daughters running car to his battery. Now from that little example how it can make a person's head spin. I'm more aware that I could and right now is a high probability of bricking a module.
which is why i do not plan on trying to reprogram or configure anything until ive educated myself more and aquired the right software and cable. I've gotten alot of info on the VID block but haven't read it yet as I'm still trying to determine where and what needs my attention right now. I've tried the stupid verify keys and it recognizes there are 2 keys in the car and 2 keys in the system but when it says to put key 1 by the gear shift and same with key 2. So it can't be the transponder in the keys if the car sees them and it can't be the RFA(KVM) because it knows there should be 2 keys and again sees them. Am I just doing something wrong, should I only have one key in the car at a time and why the gear selector? My emergency slot is on the lower part of the dash by my left knee. Also it is rather inconvenient that most of the security functions require the ignition to be switched on/off when they are the reason I can't switch my ignition lol

 

OK keep at it! Your deep in the weeds and that's what it takes to get thru SDD!

I use a power supply BUT we do have a very experienced guy who does jump from a running vehicle. I think that's a bad idea but he has been successful with that method.
My main problem would be SDD sessions can go on for hours and I don't want something idling away for hours at a time while I try to figure out what SDD is doing!

Using the service functions is how to turn the car off and on without using the start button. Yes very confusing again a feature of SDD.
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far too much contradiction with regards to running cables from another vehicle so I'll just stick to the power supply I bought. I will attach the specs i found for it but im not sure it has what u were asking about. I do know it has a dial to set the output and hold it there just not sure at what rate it measured.

 

I don’t know how much different this car is from my 2006 S type R
but I have reprogramed my key fobs numerous times using Sdd. Are these key fobs the ones with the integrated switchblade tibbe key? I have some originals that were already programmed I have some aftermarket eBay type and they all reprogrammed fine several times

 

That looks to be a very nice stout DC power supply. No ripple measurements but it looks to be high quality. I think you will be fine.
Yes I only mention using another car because people do use it successfully but like you I stick with the DC power supply for safety.

If you are already looking at VID blocks are you also studying CCF's? I don't think your car uses VID's anymore and has moved on to the CCF setup?
See the attached document telling you what the difference is and when the change occurred (Around 2007-2009 model year I think?)

Here is a SDD best practices which has a little more info too?
Also a sheet on what Jaguar wants for a DC power supply when using SDD.

Do you have the Drew Tech drivers for the Mongoose? These are required and there are 2 different ones depending on if you have a 32 bit or 64 bit operating system?

If your still not sure about your cable I removed the cover on mine to take a look at the circuit board and the status LED's BEFORE I hooked it to the car!

The way mine was made the end that connected to the OBDII port covered the LED's and I thought my cable might be bad. Attach the USB end to the laptop and make sure SDD recognizes it and that it shows at the bottom of the screen the correct interface device your are using. If SDD identifies it correctly and it looks like the picture below and you have the LED's on that's a very good test of your cable.


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@clubairth1 thank you so much for those documents I will look through them all. I have seen the car configuration files but that's way above my pay grade for right now lol. I have hooked my cable up to the car and all seems to work fine mind you I have only been using it to look around and nothing more as I was concerned before and even more so now. I found a video of an authentic mongoosepro taken apart and took a screen shot, mine looks exactly the same aside from one piece I am missing and then you post a pic of yours and u have the piece mine is missing I circled it on yours in yellow. I will attach both yours and then screen shot as reference. I don't know what the pice is or it's importance to the proper functionality of my cable but it definitely makes me question using mine that's for certain.

 

Hard to say and as you know there are 8 Mongoose cables depending on what brand of car your working on. I don't know if you have seen this but here are the differences between the various Mongoose/Mangoose cables.



I think doing the checks you have done are enough. Since you have already connected to the car you are past that hurdle. Have you tried to scan for codes and erase them? SDD is symptom driven so there are not options to just go in and read codes. The whole idea is you have a car with a problem. The you type what the car is doing in SDD so the program can guide you to what's next.

I think in Service Functions you can start to jump around. What seems to be the pinch point is bi-directional module programming. All clone cables appear to read the car's codes and allow you to erase them but when programming is where the cable differences show up.

Where did you get your cable? Any chance you could send them a short E-mail about Jaguar compatibility? With all the different chips out there I would not worry that different cables having different chips.

Of course you could get another cable and this time make sure it's the Jaguar version? I have posted this before and for about $70 and a one year guarantee that's pretty reasonable. Now I have had some feed back that the vendor has not been responding?
Jaguar Mongoose Interface Cable

If you do contact them report back if you can. British Diagnostics has been mentioned a number of times but I have not had any dealings with them and got my clone cable from some shady chinese seller for about $50. It works but if I did it again I would spend more time/money on the cable. That's where most of our problems come from. Outside of trying to use a battery charger instead of a proper DC power supply!
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is there a way to test the pins on the cable to make sure they allign with jlr column from that chart? And i have seen that chart and took a screen shot of it because i wanted to find out what pin 13 was for as i came across a thread where someone was saying if u plug your mongoose cable into the car and get a bunch of random modules not communicating that u snip off pin 13 then restart the system, plug in your cable and then ur good to start programming(sounded a little fishy to me)
after a very short research mission it's safe to say I will not be snipping pin 13 off lol. I did reach out to that link you sent me in a previous message and thank you BTW, unfortunately he said they are so backed up with orders right now that it's at least 3 weeks waiting. I have been in there selecting symptoms for recommendations and looking up dtcs on individual modules I however haven't seen or looked all that hard to be honest on how to clear them. I actually have reached out to the gentleman I purchased the cable from and he told where I could locate this document I have attached. I think in regards to programming I'm going to start with something small and see how everything goes and how it holds up then decide if I want to go all in after that. I mean really what do I have to lose my car is pretty much bricked right now. I have an xprog V 5.84 on the way just in case things go extremely sideways. For that I just don't know where to get the dump files I would need? The thread I have bookmarked explains in extreme detail exactly what to do and what to enter in but doesn't say where he obtained his dump files from, I reached out but haven't gotten a response yet.

 

Off topic I had a 1970 440 6 Pack Pistol grip shifter Cuda with Hemi suspansion when I was 16....Piad 800 dollars for it. My sister totlated it when I went away to college. ... Sad day and 60K off my balance sheet now.

Nice ride

 

Your cable looks OK but again I must post that if you run SDD with a yellow battery indicator in the upper right hand corner you are courting disaster!
Whatever you do stop right now and get that green before you go any farther. You have a number of red X's and that is trouble but could be caused by low voltage.
Can you give us the actual error codes? I see what I think is an ECU not responding error?

Note how many "U" codes your getting? These are all network codes and communication error codes. Not likely unless there is wire harness damage?

You do bring up a very good point and I ask anyone reading this if they know the answer because I wanted to check my Mangoose clone cable out with a meter BEFORE I risked attaching it to my car but other than the chart I posted no luck. There has to be a way?

I don't see any attached document? It just says what interface device your using and that all does look correct.
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ya my aar cuda is my sweetheart for sure. But its always trying to kill me like all my other loves in life.

 

I think youre all being a little too paranoid. Ive used a clone mongoose on my 06 STR to program keys, modules, check codes, reset fuel trims, reset transmission adaptives numerous times over the past several years.

Ive had several instances where the programming didnt complete but I would rerun it and it would eventually finish successfully.

I do yse a low ripple power supply as that is critical. I dont have the actual midtronics but the one I use looks identical to it. I cant remember the name right now but ill post it once I go look

the power supple and the low ripple characteristics are ESSENTIAL since the electronic signals use voltage levels to determine state do if youre trying to program when you have ripple the levels are steady and you could latch in an incorrect state because of where you were on the ripple. Some (not all) of the programming has critical voltage levels and a few millivolts matter so thats why you must have a steady ripplefree supply hooked up at all times.

I believe a lot of the bricking comes from corrosion on the electrical contacts already present in the cars harnesses or from lack of a ripple free supply where transient voltages, ripples or spikes occur during critical write periods so the wrong data gets written and then the programming is doing bad things and not what it was supposed to do.

so get a good ripple free supply and have some ***** and try out the cable. Dont mess with the supply during programming. Leave it alone and dont touch it. Dont wiggle the obd connector. Dont do anything that could cause a voltage spike.

my clone has been trustworthy so far

 

Heres the supply I use. Its an IOTA. DLS-55 and heres a link for the specs https://img.acuitybrands.com/public-...ype=SPEC_SHEET

my charger has a phone jack connector on it where you can plug in different modules for different types of charging or different types of batteries. You can find these chargers relatively cheap online. I think i paid $100 for mine. .

 

Interesting about the ripple and the transient signals caused by corrosion.

Oh no now I do trust it and it has done what you have listed on several cars. But in the beginning I had read a lot of horror stories and wanted to proceed with high cation! Plus my clone cable was a cheap $35 chinese one so I was aware of the possibilities.

Funny you post that as that is my power supply too. What has surprised me is I have a clamp on DC ammeter and have seen the car eat 30+ amps hours on end when operating SDD. It puts the cars electrical system thru the paces!
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no sir I do not belive I am wrong one bit. As tonight my baby puuuuuurs like a god damn kitten again!!! 3 weeks of preparation, day in and day out reading, researching and studying everything i possibly could and with the help of another forum member to answer my questions everytime i second guessed myself so i want to say thank you to @clubairth1 for keeping me on the right path and I want to thank you @JagV8 and @karamayoko for lighting a fire under my *** #iwin

 

It's good to see persistence!