Subwoofer in Spare Tire Well
#21
Thinking...
Box with trim piece: $150
12" Orion or PPI subwoofer or equivalent: $100
300-400 watt RMS mono amplifier with speaker inputs: $150
Fused 8-ga. pre-run of wiring to our batteries: $25
Shipping: $50
Total $475
I think anyone can install this themselves with a little coaching. Thoughts?[/QUOTE]
I would also be very interested in a package like this.. I have a 2010 XF with the factory sub and would be interested in a package that is very easy to install, and also very easy to remove to bring the system back to stock.
I am very paranoid about tinkering with the electronics in this car, so any more basic or simple information about how/why this type of setup would be "safe" would be great - it would also serve to educate me a little about car audio.
I previously owned a 2005 S-type which suffered through SERIOUS electronic issues, which led me to ultimately trade the car in (there were no modifications done to the car's audio or other electronic components).
I really appreciate your (and others') contributions to this particular thread, thanks for all the help and information.
Box with trim piece: $150
12" Orion or PPI subwoofer or equivalent: $100
300-400 watt RMS mono amplifier with speaker inputs: $150
Fused 8-ga. pre-run of wiring to our batteries: $25
Shipping: $50
Total $475
I think anyone can install this themselves with a little coaching. Thoughts?[/QUOTE]
I would also be very interested in a package like this.. I have a 2010 XF with the factory sub and would be interested in a package that is very easy to install, and also very easy to remove to bring the system back to stock.
I am very paranoid about tinkering with the electronics in this car, so any more basic or simple information about how/why this type of setup would be "safe" would be great - it would also serve to educate me a little about car audio.
I previously owned a 2005 S-type which suffered through SERIOUS electronic issues, which led me to ultimately trade the car in (there were no modifications done to the car's audio or other electronic components).
I really appreciate your (and others') contributions to this particular thread, thanks for all the help and information.
#22
I've been running my setup for a few months now and I have a large wattage class A/B amp, which isn't very efficient and sucks a lot of power, and I listen to mostly rap on fairly loud to very loud volumes. No issues with electrical system at all. I do have a 1 farad cap to help with that though. And if you have the factory sub and an amp with speaker level inputs along with the kit parts that were described, I can't think of an easier car to wire. Should only take about an hour for a novice to install. I could do it in 30 min. and I'm not a professional by any means.
It's as simple as taking out the spare and factory sub, clicking in the connector to the factory sub wires, putting the box and sub in (screw down box through woofer hole so it stays put) attaching power, ground, and speaker wires to the amp (making them pre - stripped would speed things up a ton and take out the "novice factor" even further), mounting the amp, hooking the power wire to a nut on the battery, attaching the ground to the chassis ground stud above the battery.
It will take some time to fine tune the crossover and gain adjustments, but I start out at lower gain and a crossover point about 100, then take the car out for a drive and bring the small screwdriver I need to adjust and make changes that suit my ear. Get the gain level in a good range first. Then go both up and down a little on the crossover frequency until it sounds best to you from the driver's seat. Remember to set the sub level in the head unit to the middle before you fine tune so you have the greatest range of adjustment for different music types. And that sub adjustment in the dash is a true level adjustment, not an equalizer setting that boosts a particular frequency so a separate level controller is redundant and makes the install even easier.
If you feel the stock sub isn't up to the job, and it really isn't, I wouldnt hesitate to upgrade it. Just be careful not to run it too hard when the engine is off or the electrical system might get upset and shut down. I haven't had a code or error yet.
It's as simple as taking out the spare and factory sub, clicking in the connector to the factory sub wires, putting the box and sub in (screw down box through woofer hole so it stays put) attaching power, ground, and speaker wires to the amp (making them pre - stripped would speed things up a ton and take out the "novice factor" even further), mounting the amp, hooking the power wire to a nut on the battery, attaching the ground to the chassis ground stud above the battery.
It will take some time to fine tune the crossover and gain adjustments, but I start out at lower gain and a crossover point about 100, then take the car out for a drive and bring the small screwdriver I need to adjust and make changes that suit my ear. Get the gain level in a good range first. Then go both up and down a little on the crossover frequency until it sounds best to you from the driver's seat. Remember to set the sub level in the head unit to the middle before you fine tune so you have the greatest range of adjustment for different music types. And that sub adjustment in the dash is a true level adjustment, not an equalizer setting that boosts a particular frequency so a separate level controller is redundant and makes the install even easier.
If you feel the stock sub isn't up to the job, and it really isn't, I wouldnt hesitate to upgrade it. Just be careful not to run it too hard when the engine is off or the electrical system might get upset and shut down. I haven't had a code or error yet.
#23
I just got a deal in a 2013 xf. It doesn't have the meridian system in it. I would like to have a sub . it doesn't have to shake the car but I do want some nice thump. I listen to all kinds of music but I guess mostly rock and pop. how doable is this? I don't think mine has any kind of sub now
#24
#25
Anyone that can help?
Very doable. Tap into speaker outputs and buy a small sub/enclosure. There is plenty of room in that trunk. I put 2 10"s in a box and still have plenty of trunk . That or scroll up and replace spare area like another user did. I just personally like having my spare just in case
#27
Don't all the Supercharged have the B&W or Meridian systems standard? If so, very easy install. Another way to tell if adding a sub will be easy is to pull up the tone controls (bottom right button next to the volume knob) and see if there is a sub level adjustment. If so, the install is super easy. Just look at my install photos.
#28
Don't all the Supercharged have the B&W or Meridian systems standard? If so, very easy install. Another way to tell if adding a sub will be easy is to pull up the tone controls (bottom right button next to the volume knob) and see if there is a sub level adjustment. If so, the install is super easy. Just look at my install photos.
Regards Nigel
#29
You would need to take the signal from the rear speakers. Get an amp with speaker level inputs or something that can convert the like an Audio Control LC2i. Not sure where the amp is or what colors the wires are that you'd need to tap. A good shop should be able to take care of your needs.
#30
You would need to take the signal from the rear speakers. Get an amp with speaker level inputs or something that can convert the like an Audio Control LC2i. Not sure where the amp is or what colors the wires are that you'd need to tap. A good shop should be able to take care of your needs.
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billqs (12-24-2021)
#31
Technically no, but the same concept applies in that the LC2i "unprocesses" the signal and boosts voltage up to 14 volts while also providing a 12-volt trigger lead. If your P300 has an auto-sensing turn on, you are good to go just tapping the rear or sub speaker wires.
The following users liked this post:
billqs (12-24-2021)
#32
Technically no, but the same concept applies in that the LC2i "unprocesses" the signal and boosts voltage up to 14 volts while also providing a 12-volt trigger lead. If your P300 has an auto-sensing turn on, you are good to go just tapping the rear or sub speaker wires.
#33
So I installed a p300 using 2010 kyanite's write up. My problem is that it turns on every time I open the trunk and it starts "bumping" (idk what to call it but it makes a long bass tone).
I have the auto turn on set to audio. It turns off by itself sometimes, but other times I have to go and set it to rem to turn it off.
What did I miss? I have a 2010 xfsc and I didn't use a lc2. Will installing one fix this problem?
I have the auto turn on set to audio. It turns off by itself sometimes, but other times I have to go and set it to rem to turn it off.
What did I miss? I have a 2010 xfsc and I didn't use a lc2. Will installing one fix this problem?
Last edited by 93905g; 10-25-2014 at 03:00 PM.
#34
So I installed a p300 using 2010 kyanite's write up. My problem is that it turns on every time I open the trunk and it starts "bumping" (idk what to call it but it makes a long bass tone).
I have the auto turn on set to audio. It turns off by itself sometimes, but other times I have to go and set it to rem to turn it off.
What did I miss? I have a 2010 xfsc and I didn't use a lc2. Will installing one fix this problem?
I have the auto turn on set to audio. It turns off by itself sometimes, but other times I have to go and set it to rem to turn it off.
What did I miss? I have a 2010 xfsc and I didn't use a lc2. Will installing one fix this problem?
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