I have a 2013 5.0 SC that is within the TSB range for isolator noise. My car has 23,000 miles on it. It appears to run great, just the SC seams to be a bit noisey at idle and shutdown.

TSB - JTB00349v2

I decided to follow the TSB instruction to remove belt and see if you have excess play/noise while turning by hand. The unit spins freely, does not bind or drag. But there does appear to be a bit of play and clunking.

I took a few videos to let you guys hear/see if you think it is time to take her into service to have the isolator replaced.

Video with the belt off, turning by hand.


Video with the engine idling.


Video with the engine shutting down.


Here is the TSB relating to this topic.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...rger-noise.pdf

 

Are you going to replace it yourself?
Would be interesting to see a write up on how to do it.
.
.
.

 

No, I called the dealer yesterday and will be getting an appointment set up soon.

My car is covered under warranty until 2/2020 or 100K. (I only have 23K on it now.)

I sent them the videos so they can order the repair kit and get the parts in stock because I live 90+ miles away and am tired of going to have the issue diagnosed and then having to go back again to have the work done.

Driving twice for one problem gets old.

 

I replaced mine recently on a 2013 with only 46K on it. For some crazy reason they put a spring loaded isolator on it. Beg for a solid one when they replace it or you will be doing it all again very shortly! I noticed no difference in interior noise afterward and not having the motor sound like a box of rocks is refreshing. This what you want....

New Genuine EATON Supercharger Isolator 3.0 Liter Jaguar Land Rover Range | eBay

 

 

That is what the book says but I can tell you right now I spent 2-3 hours alone getting the supercharger base guide pin unstuck from the block and attempting to remove the nose of the supercharger. These two items took immense prying and pressure to separate forcing you to go slow in increments as I just kept envisioning cracked aluminum everywhere. Not a fun job to say the least!

Ask them to grease the guide pin before putting it back in.... just in case someone has to go back in again!

 

Almost done. Just washing her up now.

The repair "kit" includes the complete snout, isolator, gaskets, and bolts.

Took them about 6 hours (including lunch break). And about an hour of that was trying to remove the snout without taking the SC completely out of the bay. They finally gave in and removed it all the way. Made replacing the snout on the bench a lot easier anyway.

I had a chance to peek at the intake valves, they look great, no buildup of carbon at all (24,000 miles).

This is what it looked like before they realized that they had to remove the left side (right side of the SC assembly if you are looking at it from the front) manifold runner to access a bolt on the snout, which required them to completely remove the SC from the top of the motor.

 

I wanted to point out a surprising tidbit since my new snout was installed.


First, the factory "kit" to fix the isolator comes complete with new snout and pulley.


Second, the pulley does NOT have the shaft cap, it is bare.




So any of you that has an aftermarket pulley and get this done, they keep your old snout and pulley. Also, they only real way to tell if you have an aftermarket smaller pulley after a isolator TSB replacement is with a caliper since visually they now look the same.


I will throw up a pic of the new, factory pulley the next time I have my piping out of the way.