oups... double post..

 

I'd recommend you use a non ball, long, 8mm allen wrench. Make sure the Allen is fully seated in the filler plug before attempting to remove the filler plug.. But if you do flubb it up.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-fluid-136746/

 

So... car in the garage, removing stuff from the top of it and slowly looking around on how things are connected. And then it hit me...
How can I remove the injectors from this car in order to remove the heads... without removing the engine? The sides, towards the back of the car, I can barely see any room to do this?

 

I think I need my first hep here...

1 - One... how do I remove the fan plastic housing? I was looking around for some bolts but I am able to locate only one of them.

2 - Can't figure out how to remove the fuse box from the engine bay. I need to remove that in order to reach the bolts for the passenger side valve cover.

Stuck...

 

From what I remember, there is only one bolt holding the radiator fan shroud - you then need to "unclip" it by moving a piece of plastic on the driver's side of the shroud to the side and then lifting it out - this is detailed in the workshop manual. However, bear in mind there's a lot of other things fixed to this shroud that will stop you being able to lift it out - mainly the coolant hoses. Make sure you've unclipped these from the shroud before you try lifting it, and even then I seem to remember it was a bit of a pig the first time I removed it.

Yeah I remember struggling with the fuse box as well. There's like 3 bolts holding it in place, but I was only able to get it "loose" as opposed to removing it, I assume the loom going to it (especially thick-*** power supply cables) was fixed elsewhere. As I was removing the engine I was able to get away with just removing the inner plastic shield (what the workshop manual calls the "Secondary Bulkhead Panel"), but I think to get the fusebox out you'll need to refer to the workshop manual.

 

Yep, I was just moving things around and I could swear there was another bolt holding it, but then realized that the top of the shroud has like a clip in thing (top, driver side) and you need to move it slightly to the right and the push on the little wing to unclip it.
Man did it tried my patience . Then I just had to remove the only bolt that is holding it and unclip the power cable.

With the fuse box, I think I will try and work around it. That's the one thing I do not want to break on the car.
I managed to remove the shied that was on its side and then I can move the box out of the way just enough that I think it will give me some work room (I hope).

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Another thing that I need help with since I am unsure how to get behind... the wires are going behind the engine into a sort of a box... how do I remove all that extra stuff?
For now, I am taking a break, its been a long day . Will come back to it in 2-3 hours.

Today I want to remove everything that is in the way of the engine before starting to open up stuff.
The only thing left that is in my way is this wire that goes trough the back of the engine.

Well, I still have all the fuel lines and so on... but that can be handled tomorrow.

 

Ah yes, the wiring loom goes into a "box" at the rear of the engine which holds it all in place. It's a real PITA to get to, and the workshop manual isn't great around those particular steps. I cut up my hands a lot working back there From memory, you should be able to "open" the box, the lid is clipped into place so you should be able to pop it open to get to the loom etc if you need to,

 

I noticed the clips. Are there any bolts in the back there that would hold the intake down?
If I don't have to mess with it I'd rather leave it in place.

 

The more I work on this car, the more I realize that someone already did stuff on it and they had no clue... or care.

I am being defeated the cranshaft pulley bolt. That thing is stuck in place properly.
Also, by the damage I see on it, it looks like someone else mangled it pretty well while they either removed it or put back in place. That ain't right...

I am afraid to force it too much... afraid I will break something that I shouldn't. I have a breaker bar with a meter extension on that thing and it just doesn't budge even when I put all my weight on it.

 

BEFORE YOU GO ANY FURTHER!!!!!!

Have you checked the bolt for numbers printed on the face of it? This is the ONLY way to know if the crankshaft pulley bolt is standard-threaded or reverse-threaded.

I've got details of this in my rebuild thread.

Mine was reverse-threaded, meaning I had to turn it clockwise to loosen it.

Make sure you don't get it wrong and snap the bolt, as that'll open a world of pain for you.

 

Yes I have - is 12.9 - the bolt must be removed clockwise - facing the engine, you pull from left to right (from top).
I think I will leave it be... and eventually take it to someone else with bigger and better tools. I don't want to break stuff.
Quite sad to be defeated by a bolt :/ - feels bad.

I'll be doing the other stuff though... I already replaced the spark plugs and I have a new belt and tensioner on the way.
I will see if I have time for the transmission this week (until I get the new belt and tensioner I won't be able to turn the engine on), if not I will plan it for a weekend or something. I will be doing the rear diff though.

 

OK awesome, just didn't want to see it snapped

In which case yeah, I think meatier tools are probably your only option. I removed mine originally with a high-torque impact gun.

 

Yeah, I don't have that in my garage... I have a small compressor - won't be able to handle any high torque impact guns.
This thread it kind of went "limpy" .
But, better to recognize defeat than to break things I should of not.

 

Agreed. You might just need a longer extension bar, although I feel the "impact" action of the impact gun really helps to remove them, especially for the first time since the engine was assembled. Also as it's a TTY bolt you'll need to replace it with a new one when you re-assemble. The torque these things are tightened to is crazy so you don't want to take any chances.

 

Based on how badly the pulley was looking, I have this feeling that someone else has removed this thing in the past... an maybe over-torqued the bolt.
Then rust settled in and voila... and impossible bolt without some serious tools.

 

If there's suspicious marks on the bolt itself I'll bet they tried to remove it by turning the bolt anti-clockwise and gave up. Probably a good thing they didn't succeed!

 

Nope, the bolt looks OK from what I can see.

 

Sad to read that

Have you considered the possibility of using a torque multiplier? They are expensive but maybe you could hire one:

 

I think a better tool for the job is a more powerful impact tool.
I have the feeling that if I apply more force than I already have, something will break for sure. And I don't want the bolt to shear off (that will bring me way more trouble than just leaving it be for now). The "shaking" of an impact gun will be more beneficial in this case.

Also, as far as I know, that torque multiplier is usually for tightening things... won't do much to take it off.

 

Davetibbs can we use the old trick of using a breaker bar against the concrete floor and bumping the starter to loosen the crank bolt?
I have never had this fail to loosen the bolt.

I have done that on a few cars but don't know if everything turns the right way for this to work on a 5.0L V-8?
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