2014 XFR here, I have a 60k miles car, doing plugs and waterworks while I have the SC off for snout renewal. I've moved the coolant tank and have adequate access on the driver's side, no concerns there.

But the passenger side looks...Well, there's *far* less room in this engine bay than in a C4 Corvette, and that's saying something. Of course that silly musical instrument [symposer] took up half a cubic foot by itself...

Of course I've removed the stubborn rubber cover.

Q: Is it necessary (or recommended) to remove the shield around the fuse box to get the coils off and plugs exchanged?

When I bought the car there were 4 new plugs, new-in-box, in the glovebox. Now I think I know why. I figure the prior owner started this job, got the driver's side done, and said, "FTS, I'm selling it." LOL

 

Why are you changing the plugs at only 60k?

 

Just doing it while I'm in there. I figure I'm tearing it apart to do the SC and y-pipe/crossover/etc. so I'm never going to have easier access than I have right now. And plugs are not expensive. But it is darned perplexing how to get in on that passenger side (NA/left-hand drive). Would be grateful for any experiences doing this.

 

From memory, you have to remove the trim piece and lift the fuse box up and out of the way as far as possible. While you have a supercharger off, I would recommend you do a symposer delete and change the PCV valves also.

 

Thank you, appreciate the help!

Symposer delete is done, but PCV valves were not on my list--adding that while I'm in there. Do you recommend replacing the breather hose, or at least the o-ring, per this post? https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...stions-242024/

Also doing the rear pipe, y-pipe, water pump, thermostat housing, and any pipes that look suspect. Doing *all* the fluids, trans service, etc.

Will hit the suspension later this summer--the back end feels a little suspect sometimes, not inspiring confidence. I think some bushings may be in order, will have to evaluate what's going on back there.

This car is a daily driver for me and I log a lot of miles--the goal is to hopefully not have to touch it [much] for another 50-75K miles after bringing it up-to-date. Very open to other while-I'm-in-there ideas.

 

I have never experienced a problem with the breather hose O ring. PCV parts are on Amazon.
I can't tell you this, those PCV valves are much easier to assemble with the engine running as it sucks the diaphragms into place and you just have to clip on the lid.

 

I'm not sure you can easily do the PCV valves with the blower on?

Anyway, for the UK drivers side plugs I am fairly sure you will need to remove the plastic fuse box guard (which is a PITA), you can then unbolt the fuse box and rotate it out the way, Access is tight but not completely horrible... saying that you can do your plugs with the blower on and I believe they are 100k service items so I'm not sure (given the cost for the correct ones) I would bother.

 

Thank you for the note and pictures! I'm already down to this [below], and I have the plugs, so I think I'm going to just complete it. That cover may be a PITA but it can't be worse than the two Impossible Screws (T30's against the firewall) involved in removing the heater crossover at the back of the motor--just finally got those out tonight, replacing them with hex heads so at least one might get a wrench on them!

 

The easiest way to get to the crossover screws, from memory, is to drop the whole engine several inches by unscrewing the 4 main subframe bolts several inches (they are long and care is needed). You can then get to the pipe easier.

 

It can be done but you have break the old caps to get them off. You get new ones with the springs and diaphragms, and you put them together with the engine running so the vacuum pulls them into place.

 

I also have done it with the SC on. Next time I will pull the SC!
Neat tip about putting them in with the engine running as I had a bit of a fight with the springs and caps upon re-assembly.
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Congratulations!

Removing the plastic shield was ok for me, replacing it was quite annoying as it has to go round several pipes and magically clip into some other bit of annoying plastic! The fuse box has just enough wiring loom length that you can lift it up and spin it by 90degs.

I found the rear cross over hard work, I didn't lower the engine as I couldn't face the inevitable seized bolts and spinning sheet metal nuts they use. On one side I used a socket set similar to this as access was tight and I did it while sitting on the engine in the V where the blower should have been (mind plastic pipes if you do the same).

https://www.kleintools.co.uk/catalog...t-set-15-piece

Good luck!

 

Good tip re - pcv with engine running thanks.

 

I admit I did have to cut a little of the new cover away and maybe one clip to get it to slide under the SC but it clipped on just fine. No way I was taking the whole SC off just to change them out !

 

I regret not doing my PCV's when I had my blower off in Fall of '21. I cant believe it's already been so long since I did that.

Sounds like you figured it out, but I distinctly remember hating that fuse box cover and the insulation inserts.

 

Great advice about lowering the sub frame! Never thought of that either.
I have jacked up the engine to get access but it's never enough room.

I won't lie it was a tough repair and I cussed a lot. In fact if I had not read that it had been done with the SC on before I would have bet it was not possible.
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