Anyone have link on a DIY for rod bearings in the 5.0?

 

Why... what happened?

 

Dunno but motor has a very stereotypical rod knock for about 5 mins until all warmed up. Not my car and while I've dealt with the 4.0 and 4.2 a ton, I've never touched a 5.0

 

It has not been reported but if you do have a rod knock please post back so we can benefit from your experience and repair.

So far the 5.0L has been pretty solid.
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I would think you'd be much better off picking up a used engine from a wrecked car than doing anything to repair one of these engines since they have made so many. Much less risky considering that non-factory engine builders seem to screw up so much these days. Attention to detail in the engine building craft has been lost in our just-replace-it world today.

 

Are you sure it's conrod bearings ? Reason I ask is that one would not expect the noise to disappear when the engine gets warm, rather the other way around. Other things can make knocking noises too.

The real test is whitemetal from the bearings in the sump oil.

 

I agree!

 

I would rather install a warrantied drop out as well. Not my car but told the owner that if there was a relatively simple way to pull those bearings that I'd check them, and if we found a culprit I'd replace the set.
If it's just lower the subframe and pull a pan I'll do it for him. Done quite a few XJ8s but I've never done major work on an XF and I'm not diving in without guidance, and beer.

 

The engine makes a ton of noise from the vvt to the timing chains, injectors, waterpump, and supercharger coupler.

I thought the same on mine, but it goes away at higher rpms above 1550. Mine makes this noise, the dealer and an indi both said timing noise. I used a scope and it the passenger side vvt.

If the knock doesn't fluctuate up and down with rpms speed ... it's not a bearing issue.

 

FYI...

You have remove the lower pan cover and a baffle to get to the rods. Not easy like a on a truck or jeep

 

I'd pull the pan/baffle and check each rod for play. The 5L isn't a cheap motor so I'm not sure if going with a used motor is going to be cheaper. If a rod bearing is bad then the crank could be scored. Usually slapping in a new rod bearing is only a band-aide fix and will only last for a short amount of time. The scoring on the crank would eat up the new bearing. Typically you need to pull the crank and have it polished when there is a bearing issue.

 

Thanks....that is what I was looking for. If I can access the pan without a nightmare (likE A bmw X5- YUK) I'll do it for him. I don't mind a pan, baffle, or even partial subframe drop.

 

....and the crank is wiped. Getting to it was not bad, but bearings won't fix this baby. Thanks for the help.

 

Just curious, is there a chart or legend to determining which color group bearings you have? Is yellow standard then green .001 over or something like that?

 

can you explain how to remove oil pan bed plate in the 4.2 to reach rod bearings

 

This is 5 years old.......