Ok... in short I have an engine noise going on for 3-4 months now in my XFR. I have 3 cars excluding kids and wife's , so I swap often. I finally decided to have it looked at in December.

The dealer said it was timing and wants $6-7k. I never had a CEL, codes, performance restrictions or performance issues.

The indi said it's not timing or I would get codes, and didn't think it sounded like the timing. He said I can swap the timing, but that noise will probably still be there ...and you are short $4k.

Who's advice do I take??

 

I reckon we need a lot more info before we can put our 2c in.
What sort of noise?
From which part of the engine?
Hot or cold engine or makes no difference?
Only/worse at start up or makes no difference?
Rev or load or speed dependant, or something else?

 

It's basically at rpms below 1500

I tried to pinpoint the noise but no luck . I can hear it best underneath or top on passenger side.

Not the supercharger.. I pulled off the belt.

NOT MY CAR... but sounds like this...
Or this.

 

Are you referring to the rhythmic "knock" that you can hear in the videos or the background "rattle" that you can also hear?

 

It's not the injectors... the inside cabin noise and the thud thud in the engine video. It sounds more of a slow rotating cam ... thud thud... but doesn't increase with rpm...it actually goes away above 1500rpm

 

Get a $10 auto stethoscope and see if you can narrow it down.

 

Done did that no luck .. honestly I can hear it in numerous places

My guess is the tensioner Ratchet is broken and when oil pressure builds up the pressure fed takes over.

 

Sounds a bearing going- maybe a pulley bearing?

Like wheel bearings you only hear it at certain revolutions- or the noise goes up in pitch as it spins faster so that it's not so apparent.
Just a guess.

 

My question is...

Should I follow the dealer or indi's recommendation???

 

Well if it's been ongoing for 3 or 4 months it's a slow burn thing and not catastrophic-- yet.

I would tend to give it over to the indy. It sounds like he's more willing to try to isolate the problem rather than just replace the 'timing'- (and I'm not sure what the dealer means?- the timing is electronic so all the pulleys and belts and tensioners?)
... and give up 4 gorillas when there are no fault codes and it's unsure whether it's the problem.

 

The dealer wants to replace tensioners, guides and chains. I didn't ask if that included the vvt.

 

Ask the indi what he would charge to do the same- as a worst case scenario.

Trouble is it's easier for the dealer to just quote on replacing the lot (whether all the parts need changing or not). The indi (if he's trustworthy) may just replace what's worn and needs changing.

 

Indi.... quoted $3-4K if no vvt.

Dealer $6-7k, my guess is no vvt

 

Yeah but the indi said he didn't think it was timing. If that proves to be the case then both quotes are null and void.

Seeing you'd be saving 2 grand even if it is timing with the indi, I'd get him to find what the problem really is first.

Caveat is whether the indi has a good reputation for technical prowess- only you know that or can find that out.

 

The indi is JagMac in Dallas and only works on Jaguars like the dealer. He took me inside and showed me an engine that blew, bc the guide rails slipped into the lower timing gear. This only freaked me out more.

He doesn't think there is a problem and said drive it until the CEL comes on.

My fear is the guides slip or it jumps time, and the cost jumps to the stratosphere.

I'm going to remove the drive belt and see if it's one of the pulleys or water pump. I also bought a Bluetooth code reader so I can watch for codes as I drive.

My gut tells me it's tied to the fuel pumps timing gear/chain or the water pump echoing inside the valley.

 

That sounds like the plan. Get into it!