XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 ) 1995-1997

Rear view mirror ( How to)

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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 06:02 PM
  #1  
sogood's Avatar
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Default Rear view mirror ( How to)

I finally got around to addressing the "top coat peel" on my 97 xj6 and started with the small stuff, ie; the rear view mirrors. These were scratched and marked by the previous owner, as they tend to be on many cars and I thought they were as good a place to start as any. I have also completed the sunroof panel and have the bonnet stripped down, primed, flattened, and the multitude of stone chips filled in also! The boot lid is also stripped, ready for stage two. Anyway, I thought the method of removing the mirror covers may be of interest. Pictures of the other jobs will follow. I am generally quite pleased with the results so far, especially given that the whole job will cost me about €100.00 in paint, wet and dry, filler etc. as opposed to the minimum €1,000.00 quoted by a paint shop. Admittedly, they would have done a better job, but this will do me for now, until a full paint job can be afforded.

Anyway, removing the mirror covers is quite simple;

First, From the drivers seat, adjust the mirror so that it is turned in towards you to its full extent, see pic. This leaves the outer edge of the mirror clear of the plastic housing.

Then, at the outer edge, pull the actual glass towards you, away from the car and at the same time, pull it away from the housing, see pic.

The front/outer part of the glass will release with a click, from its "snap on" housing

Then push the mirror back towards the car and this will release the rear "snap on " fixing. remove the heater wires and put the glass somewhere safe!

Inside the mirror housing you will see the Three plastic lugs that pass through from the cover into the actual mirror housing. The cover is held in place with these lugs, using collets, or small spring loaded sleeves. These sleeves can be removed with a pliers, or the cover can be pushed away from the housing, by pushing on the lugs. I used a small thin screwdriver that went inside the lugs and so wouldn't slip. It is all self evident when you see it.

After that, it was rubbing, priming, flattening, cleaning, priming, painting (repeatedly, slowly building up very light mists, as water based paint tends to dry slowly and is prone to run!) and finally several clear coats, buffed and polished. The finish is actually much better than appears. One happy camper.
 
Attached Thumbnails Rear view mirror ( How to)-mirror-removal-1.jpg   Rear view mirror ( How to)-mirror-removal-2.jpg   Rear view mirror ( How to)-mirror-removal-3.jpg   Rear view mirror ( How to)-mirror-removal-4.jpg   Rear view mirror ( How to)-mirror-removal-5.jpg  

Rear view mirror ( How to)-mirror-removal-6.jpg   Rear view mirror ( How to)-mirror-cleaned.jpg   Rear view mirror ( How to)-mirror-primed.jpg   Rear view mirror ( How to)-mirror-painted.jpg   Rear view mirror ( How to)-mirror-top-coat.jpg  

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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 06:39 PM
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Nice one Sogood, thanks for sharing
 
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 04:14 AM
  #3  
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Good job , thanks for postin'
 
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Old Nov 28, 2013 | 08:39 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by sogood
I finally got around to addressing the "top coat peel" on my 97 xj6 and started with the small stuff, ie; the rear view mirrors. These were scratched and marked by the previous owner, as they tend to be on many cars and I thought they were as good a place to start as any. I have also completed the sunroof panel and have the bonnet stripped down, primed, flattened, and the multitude of stone chips filled in also! The boot lid is also stripped, ready for stage two. Anyway, I thought the method of removing the mirror covers may be of interest. Pictures of the other jobs will follow. I am generally quite pleased with the results so far, especially given that the whole job will cost me about €100.00 in paint, wet and dry, filler etc. as opposed to the minimum €1,000.00 quoted by a paint shop. Admittedly, they would have done a better job, but this will do me for now, until a full paint job can be afforded.

Anyway, removing the mirror covers is quite simple;

First, From the drivers seat, adjust the mirror so that it is turned in towards you to its full extent, see pic. This leaves the outer edge of the mirror clear of the plastic housing.

Then, at the outer edge, pull the actual glass towards you, away from the car and at the same time, pull it away from the housing, see pic.

The front/outer part of the glass will release with a click, from its "snap on" housing

Then push the mirror back towards the car and this will release the rear "snap on " fixing. remove the heater wires and put the glass somewhere safe!

Inside the mirror housing you will see the Three plastic lugs that pass through from the cover into the actual mirror housing. The cover is held in place with these lugs, using collets, or small spring loaded sleeves. These sleeves can be removed with a pliers, or the cover can be pushed away from the housing, by pushing on the lugs. I used a small thin screwdriver that went inside the lugs and so wouldn't slip. It is all self evident when you see it.

After that, it was rubbing, priming, flattening, cleaning, priming, painting (repeatedly, slowly building up very light mists, as water based paint tends to dry slowly and is prone to run!) and finally several clear coats, buffed and polished. The finish is actually much better than appears. One happy camper.
I have the same xjsport.....you're a star letting us be party to your knowledge....
When ever I need something broken off the Jag or my Bentley, I just tell my wife to drive it around for a day....lol....I'll be replacing my mirror cap today.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 10:59 AM
  #5  
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My thanks, Sogood!! Just the incentive I needed to tackle mine.

(Of course, in the spring, since it's below freezing today.)
Ray
 
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #6  
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I really need to get around to doing something very similar on my wife's Passat.

The door mirrors have lacquer peeling and it lets the car down a little, as she's otherwise pretty decent.

The how to will be slightly different but essentially the process will be the same. My only concerns are the "inside" of the caps?

There's always that partm usually around 1/2" or so all the way around at least, that is visible, so may have to try and find a way around that.
 
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