here's what it looks like...



If you want it new, our sponsor Gaudin Jaguar has the part for $414 plus shipping. Nalley jaguar will be +10, but the shipping will be free.



Ebay has a used one for $125, and remember, you can get this off a ZF5hp24 from a 1997-2002 xk8 also, not just the xjs. Other salvage yards might be able to find you one. Its not a part that fails often, and if it were me, I would not hesitate to get a 'pre-owned' part in this case.

 

For those in the know -- Don't you have to adjust this part on installation?

If I remember correctly the control modules need to see the console and the transmission switches moving in unison and in the correct relation to one another-- or you get a fault.

I don't think it is as simple as switching out the part.


Someone with the service manual?

 

Wouldn't surprise me if while doing what you described a Leprechaun riding a Unicorn was also required to watch over the procedure to make sure it went right. Said Leprechaun would also need a satellite phone to speak with the Loch Ness Monster who just so happens to be an expert in all thing Jaguar.

 

Something new to report. A new battery made no difference but since changing the shifter something else has started. Many times the car will not like to come out of park. When I push the brake pedal I often do not hear the switch move. I assume this is the neutral position sensor? If I press the brakes several times it starts to work. I've noticed that the brake lights also require a but of force on most occasions. I only recently noted this as I rarely drive at night.

So, two things here. Is it possible a worn brake light switch could cause this and two, the gear selector is sloppy when put in to anything other than P, R, or N. That later sounds more like what H20 is saying the problem is.

 

Sounds like the rotary switch (also known as the neutral safety switch) is not adjusted properly, the brake swtich will only allow it to release, if its clickin, its workin. There are two micro switches in that single brake switch, both must be working in order for it to work...turn your cruise control on, if the car turns it off for you, your brake switch (one of the micros) is failing. If it doesn't, I'm still laying some greenbacks on the rotary switch.

 

Now that would be the part on the right side of the tranny right? and by right I'm standing at the back of the car.

 

sorry, not sure which side for certain...I could guess, and have a 50/50 chance at getting it right

 

So through a neighbor I took the car to a transmission shop. It turns out that the adjustment my mechanic claimed to have made never happened (as I suspected). Things were badly out of alignment and bolts were mismatched. All of this was corrected but the car is still going in to limp mode as soon as it is put in gear. The guy was very generous though, he didn't charge me a thing.

 

I did some reading around here and I'm starting to wonder about A Drum failure. The code quoted in most things related does not match the range sensor code I'm getting though. If the and/or B Drum have issues, would the car also have issues going in to reverse? My car has no problem there.

 

typically in the a-drum failure, there will be slipping and some hard shifting, mostly in the lower gears. That doesn't sound like the symptoms you are experiencing. Though reverse usually isn't affected with the a-drum breaking apart.

I was helping a member with instructions from the JTIS on how to remove the j-gate top piece (the one with the letters and illumination). It mentioned the connector for the D-4 switch, let me put that into a pdf, upload that to you, and check in your j-gate area for damage to the harness, connector, or wiring...perhaps when the pieces broke apart, a connector/wire was pulled or damaged as a result?

any chance that little connecting rod you had to 'manually' hold to the gear shift is misadjusted in addition to the rotary switch below? Can wiggling that (pulling/pushing) while your car is in gear correct the limp home message?

 

That thing I messed with is what is activated when you press the brake pedal. The more I get in to this the more I think it was just a freak occurrence that messing with it made a difference. I may not remember right but I don't recall seeing item 2 in point 6. I've become an expert in the removal of the console however. If it were to be an Olympic spot I'd earn the gold. I'll take a look again.

I really do appreciate your time and effort to help me on this. I'll report back with my findings.

 

Well, no results from that. From playing with the shifter I can get the car to shift in to drive as long as I don't go all the way back. If I do pull the lever as far back as it will go I get the fault. Even though I can get it to work the car will go maybe two miles before it dumps back in to fault mode.

 

I just now got around to checking out that EBay add. That seller looks like a total *******. The add pretty much says he sells things and if it is junk the buyer can go take a leap. I wouldn't buy a cure for cancer from this guy and his feedback isn't good no matter what he seems to write in his response to negative feedback.

 

I never got around to updating this. I did buy a neutral safety switch in April of last year but guess what? As soon as I got it the car stopped doing all this. I didn't change anything, it just stopped. I don't get it but it doesn't matter anymore as I sold the car.