XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Tranny woes. Please read.

 
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:40 AM
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Default Tranny woes. Please read.

Well, my Jag ownership experience isn't going well. The day after I bought the car the CEL light and Transmission Fault came on. The car would only run in limp mode. Sometime restarting the car clear this up but clearly that is no solution. Most times the P and R lights on the J Gate work but nothing else and others no lights. The first thing I looked in to was the TSB 307-01. My mechanic followed all that through but everything checked out there.

He said even without the cable connected the J Gate will not move freely through the 2, 3, 4 passed D. This being the case it would seem that a sensor of some sort could be ruled out or can it? From reading I've seen that there are certain electronics that might need to be replaced as far as sensors go but that seems counter to the lever not moving with the cable disconnected.

I was also warned that once you start unplugging things you run the risk of causing issues with the security system. Is that true? Is it possible that the security system is the issue? I've experienced a car going in to limp mode due to that but the tranny showed no signs of problems so I thought I would ask.

Anyway, my mechanic says he wont work on this sort of thing, for this car anyway. So, I either need to figure it out on my own or take the car to a specialist. The thing is, I'm not really convinced I have an expensive problem. I have about 25% of the console apart and I'm not afraid to dig in further but I am concerned about unplugging this or that and adding to the issues.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I read this:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ght=Gate+shift

But the symptoms and car really are not the same.
 
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Old 03-15-2011, 12:25 PM
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Read the ODB-II codes, without that you are just making expensive guesses. It may not be the transmission at all (despite what the car readout says)
 
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Old 03-15-2011, 02:32 PM
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I did that P0706 Transmission Range Sensor.
 
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:59 PM
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dba
This seems pretty straight forward. The symptoms and the code and the troubleshooting guide match. You have a problem with the D-4 transmission switch not matching the rotary switch. I have no experience as to where these switchs are or what ithey look like, butthey are the switches that indicates your J-shifter position. From the hard place in the shifter, would look for the rotary switch to be screwed up.

Unless you are checking circuit continuity, you should have the battery discionnected beforey ou pull tghe console apart. With the battery disconnected, you needn't worry about any "security issues" if any existed anyway, (and I don't think they do!).
 

Last edited by sparkenzap; 03-15-2011 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:06 PM
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I'm not sure how likely this is, but the floor shifter position has to be synchronized with the rotary switch on the transmission. With the cable detached from the shifter assembly, the rotary switch has to be clicked to the neutral position, then the floor shifter cable collar has to be adjusted so that the floor shifter is also in neutral. The cable collar has threads on it, with locknuts to be tightened on either side of the bracket that holds the cable collar to the shifter assembly.
If the car gets conflicting info from the transmission and the shifter assembly, I think it gets confused.
 
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:11 PM
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Boomer:
That seems to be exactly what the code diagnostic is saying is wrong. But, dba also has a hard place in the shifter.
 
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:28 PM
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So maybe a new floor shifter is needed?
 
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:56 AM
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What actually brought on this post was what you mentioned Boomer. I had this done yesterday but it didn't produce the desired results. I'm not sure how to proceed here. If I recall correctly the D4 switch is something like 85 bucks? The cost isn't important but I only want to tear down the console once. My mechanic was going on and on about how hard it is to work on Jags. I kept telling him I will take the console out myself. Besides, I took most of the items off that allow access to the cable before I brought the car in just so I wouldn't have to hear complaining.
 
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:34 AM
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same tranny, different car, same code...rotary switch at fault - read here
 
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:55 PM
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Thank you. I will read up on this part.
 
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Old 03-23-2011, 07:20 PM
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Old 03-23-2011, 07:22 PM
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Look at all that broken plastic. There is nothing wrong with D 2 4 or the J Gate. All this plastic crap broke up and connections are not made as expected. This is why the car would not go over to 2, 3, 4 and this is why the limp mode, tranny faults, etc. I drove the car while making a connection between that cylinder "thing" and the contact and no tranny fault, CEL, etc. A cheap *** pile of crap plastic has caused all these problems.
 
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Old 03-23-2011, 08:33 PM
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What a mess! I would recommend a used shifter assembly - they are often advertised on FleaBay. I had to replace mine for a different reason, and got one for about a hundred $. Only annoying part about the replacement was getting the console assembly unfastened and slid rearwards to be out of the way. It almost looks like you could get the shifter out without disturbing the console, but doesn't quite make it.
 
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Old 03-24-2011, 04:43 AM
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That's unacceptaple using such a flimsy part for tranny on any car let alone Jag .I had mine broken in my old gone buster as well . They should have replaced it with a metal one
 
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:29 AM
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I know. A 10 cent parts makes a 70 thousand dollar car useless. I was talking to some clown who was selling parts from a '99 VDP and I wanted the shifter. The bozo sold it for a Dollar and even ate the shipping. This same guy thinks he is going to get hundreds of Dollars for a 11 year old Jag stereo.

Anyway, I can't see the point in spending a hundred bucks or more to replace a piece of junk with another piece of junk. I need to figure out a better solution.
 
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Old 03-24-2011, 10:13 AM
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My guess is the original damage could have occurred before you bought the car, and your use only received the end result. That plastic is thick, and rather rigid. I doubt its even brittle at 13 years...the plastic pin didn't even shear...a large chunk of it was lost. Someone applied a pretty large force on that linkage.
 
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Old 03-24-2011, 10:48 AM
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There is no doubt it happened before I bought the car.
 
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Old 03-24-2011, 11:51 AM
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very surprised by the amount of rust in such a location.
Do you have the history on the car?
 
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by luc View Post
very surprised by the amount of rust in such a location.
Do you have the history on the car?
Saw the same amount surface rust on the bracket of my Texas/California car.
Absolutely no finish on the piece, Jag reverting to old ways.

Epoxy glue should fix the broken off part.
 

Last edited by Dan R; 03-24-2011 at 12:51 PM. Reason: Addition
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:44 PM
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Usually used car parts guys are very good at knowing how often a part breaks for a particular car and they charge more for often failed parts. Since this part apparently does not often fail on its own, I would sure check to see if I could find one on e-bay, craigs list or Coventry West. I suspect the entire assembly could be had from a junker fairly reasonably.
 

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