2012 xjl portfolio ticking stumper
Thank all of you for your past tips, suggestions and in some cases hilarious suggestions. A year and a half has passed since the last comments about the ticking noise that was stumping all my local mechanics as well as my local JLR dealer who didn’t seem to care about my issue. Today I took the 2012 Jag n/a v8 x351 in for its annual oil change ,. This has been a year of only 1000 miles since it’s last oil change in January 2024. The mechanic used a stethoscope to determine the noise was coming from the back, low part of the engine (driver side) and seemed to be an issue with the exhaust valve. He also said he couldn’t be positive unless he started disassembling the engine which would cost several thousands of dollars for a thorough inspection plus parts that may have to be replaced.
He noted that my 13 year old car , which I love despite all the issues I’ve had, really isn’t worth putting that kind of money into it. I’ve had it 12 years.
To review, this is a replacement Jaguar engine with only about 40,000 miles on it. No drop in performance, no decrease in gas mileage, no smoke, no oil leaks and no codes. All oil changes by Jaguar dealer and never more than 7000 between changes.
it really runs perfectly other than the tickimg type noise which cannot be heard while in the car. The intensity of the noise is always the same, just more ticks as the rpm’ s increase. Not a scratch on the car, has never had a drop of rain as I live in the desert.
Is there another way to determine what the issue is ? If it is an exhaust valve , it seems to me that since the car isn’t worth much on the used car market, shouldI continue to drive it until it conks out and I just scrap this otherwise beautiful car. I only drive it less than 2000 miles per year now.
Your valued opinions and suggestions are appreciated.
gpk
He noted that my 13 year old car , which I love despite all the issues I’ve had, really isn’t worth putting that kind of money into it. I’ve had it 12 years.
To review, this is a replacement Jaguar engine with only about 40,000 miles on it. No drop in performance, no decrease in gas mileage, no smoke, no oil leaks and no codes. All oil changes by Jaguar dealer and never more than 7000 between changes.
it really runs perfectly other than the tickimg type noise which cannot be heard while in the car. The intensity of the noise is always the same, just more ticks as the rpm’ s increase. Not a scratch on the car, has never had a drop of rain as I live in the desert.
Is there another way to determine what the issue is ? If it is an exhaust valve , it seems to me that since the car isn’t worth much on the used car market, shouldI continue to drive it until it conks out and I just scrap this otherwise beautiful car. I only drive it less than 2000 miles per year now.
Your valued opinions and suggestions are appreciated.
gpk
Runs fine? I'd keep driving it. No reason to scrap a car that runs well.
If you don't drive the car much you may consider selling? Plan on only getting $5-6K for it but that's way better than if the engine suddenly explodes. At that point it would be worth scrap value.
If you don't drive the car much you may consider selling? Plan on only getting $5-6K for it but that's way better than if the engine suddenly explodes. At that point it would be worth scrap value.
Well I hate to suggest these products but we have had several reports of success with engine additives. Something along the lines of Rislone Engine Treatment or Liqui Moly 20004 Hydraulic Lifter Additive. There are many other's and I always considered them snake oil but with your symptoms it seems you only have noise and no other problems. Since your car is running fine after a year with the ticking.
Maybe take a hail Mary pass here and try one or two miracles in a can? Cheap and no real downside if it does not work.
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Maybe take a hail Mary pass here and try one or two miracles in a can? Cheap and no real downside if it does not work.
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The bad thing about DI engines is that there's no fuel hitting the valves to clean them, so carbon can build up on them, and that can lead to valve issues.
A couple things to try include Seafoam (and the stuff clubairth1 mentioned), ensuring you're using the correct octane gas so timing is as advanced as possible, and replacing worn spark plugs. Personally, I'd start with Seafoam before an oil change, and with the correct octane gas, just keep driving the thing without worry.
Also, unless you get oil change analyses done, you don't know how your oil is doing and its lifespan. I do yearly OCI when my car tells me its due and my oil still has good life with no major metals or silicates - but I'm time-limited not mileage limited and live in a temperate climate. YMMV - literally.
A couple things to try include Seafoam (and the stuff clubairth1 mentioned), ensuring you're using the correct octane gas so timing is as advanced as possible, and replacing worn spark plugs. Personally, I'd start with Seafoam before an oil change, and with the correct octane gas, just keep driving the thing without worry.
Also, unless you get oil change analyses done, you don't know how your oil is doing and its lifespan. I do yearly OCI when my car tells me its due and my oil still has good life with no major metals or silicates - but I'm time-limited not mileage limited and live in a temperate climate. YMMV - literally.
Since the EGR sends oil blow-by back into the intake system, this can be the reason valves get build up and then start ticking. A cleaning agent that goes into the intake like Seafoam is good for addressing this, opposed to one that goes into the fuel itself.
Yes it could be buildup on the back of the valves. If you do suspect this and lucky for us the Jaguar engines don't suffer too much from this like say an Audi does it still can be a problem. But with all the cheap endoscope type camera's it would be a simple task to scope the valves out before committing to a cleaning.
I have used Seafoam type stuff too but like Saki suggested above these are DI engines you will need to put it thru a vacuum hose and not in the gas. Otherwise the cleaner is injected directly into the cylinder and completely bypasses the backs of the intake valves. BG44 and Techron are other cleaners that are recommended on this forum and again they are just gas additives. None of them do much but they are cheap and easy to use with not much downside so give them a try. I regularly run Techron because of it's high PEA content. Still can't say I can tell any difference before or after but figured it can't hurt.
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I have used Seafoam type stuff too but like Saki suggested above these are DI engines you will need to put it thru a vacuum hose and not in the gas. Otherwise the cleaner is injected directly into the cylinder and completely bypasses the backs of the intake valves. BG44 and Techron are other cleaners that are recommended on this forum and again they are just gas additives. None of them do much but they are cheap and easy to use with not much downside so give them a try. I regularly run Techron because of it's high PEA content. Still can't say I can tell any difference before or after but figured it can't hurt.
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Depends on the Seafoam product - there's one for the fuel system that goes in the tank, one for oil that goes into the block, and one for the intake that goes in the intake system! There are some good videos and I believe Seafoam sells a kit with all three.
Thanks Saki and a VERY good point! I forgot Seafoam has so many products now. I have used this stuff for so long that when I first started using it all they had was just plain Seafoam.
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