2014 XJR white smoke
Get the codes first. Can you fill us in on the details when this happened?
Any overheating of the engine?
The only suggestion is maybe an injector problem and Jaguar recommends replacing the entire bank at once. Don't really know why?
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Any overheating of the engine?
The only suggestion is maybe an injector problem and Jaguar recommends replacing the entire bank at once. Don't really know why?
.
.
.
I'd be going with injectors also. Run the codes and check the smell of the exhaust. Recommend doing the whole side cause they will all probably be need to be replaced at some time. Thats completely your choice. Its a hit to pocket at first but you need not worry about redoing the same job three times on the same side.
I just had injector issues and was dumping fuel but had no smoke at all. But check the codes- injector codes, fuel rail pressure, misfires likely
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If you dump enough fuel it stops burning in that cylinder, and then you get no smoke. That is, until the exhaust gets hot enough to burn off the fuel that's built up in there.
My XJS V12 had this problem, no smoke until I fixed the injectors, then nothing for about 5 minutes of running, then the smoke started POURING out. The whole street disappeared in the cloud. Never seen anything like it.
BTW, this has lead to numerous fires and loss of vehicles and property - don't run it in this state. If there's a lot of fuel in the cats, and it burns off quickly, the exhaust can get hot enough to set the car on fire.
My XJS V12 had this problem, no smoke until I fixed the injectors, then nothing for about 5 minutes of running, then the smoke started POURING out. The whole street disappeared in the cloud. Never seen anything like it.
BTW, this has lead to numerous fires and loss of vehicles and property - don't run it in this state. If there's a lot of fuel in the cats, and it burns off quickly, the exhaust can get hot enough to set the car on fire.
Last edited by Mark SF; Dec 21, 2020 at 11:27 AM.
Just a thought, if the converter was to catch fire, Would sealing the end of the exhaust pipes cut off the oxygen and kill the fire? I know that the converter will get hot enough to glow red, which can set nearby components on fire.
I got on the highway and the car was running perfectly fine. I was cruising at 70mph and flew up to 135mph, then went back to cruising at 70mph. 5 minutes go by and I start to feel a jerk to the car so I get off the highway and my check engine is now flashing and the car sounds like it is running on 4 cylinders. So i got an OBD2 scanner and I am not really good at reading these types of codes so here they are and maybe you guys know about them.
p0042- 02 sesnor
P0300-cylinder misfire
p0247-supercharger waste-gate solenoid B
p0007-fuel shutoff valve A
c0700- engine oil temp. sensor
p0500- vehicle speed sensor
c2520- chassis code catalytic coverts failed
c0361- chassis trouble code
p024a-air flap actuator A intercooler/ performance problem
p16343- CAN link engine control module/ transmission control module
p0a00- coolant temp. sensor circuit
c0202- abs enable relay contact circuit/performance
p0c4a- battery pack coolant pump
p0900-clutch actuator
p0a00- motor electronic coolant temp. sensor
HELP YOU GUYS!!!!!!
p0042- 02 sesnor
P0300-cylinder misfire
p0247-supercharger waste-gate solenoid B
p0007-fuel shutoff valve A
c0700- engine oil temp. sensor
p0500- vehicle speed sensor
c2520- chassis code catalytic coverts failed
c0361- chassis trouble code
p024a-air flap actuator A intercooler/ performance problem
p16343- CAN link engine control module/ transmission control module
p0a00- coolant temp. sensor circuit
c0202- abs enable relay contact circuit/performance
p0c4a- battery pack coolant pump
p0900-clutch actuator
p0a00- motor electronic coolant temp. sensor
HELP YOU GUYS!!!!!!
You have lot of sensor errors on powertrain. Either there are failure of loom or multiconnector somewhere, or your system are running out of electricity. Could be failure of engine negative wire to chassis as well.
1st check condition of alternator belt and its tension. Check the voltage of your battery with multimeter. Should be ~12.5V when on rest and ~14V when engine running. If you have jumpleads, use one between chassis grounding point and engine for extra grounding lead. If this help, original meshwire one has been corroded and need replaced. (if i remember right, it is located near where alternator are, access from under vehicle.
These were easy part. Next i would start to check all electrics multiconnectors for contacts and also possible failures of the looms. Check also that engine bay fusebox havent been taking water. That will generate nasty gremlings too.
1st check condition of alternator belt and its tension. Check the voltage of your battery with multimeter. Should be ~12.5V when on rest and ~14V when engine running. If you have jumpleads, use one between chassis grounding point and engine for extra grounding lead. If this help, original meshwire one has been corroded and need replaced. (if i remember right, it is located near where alternator are, access from under vehicle.
These were easy part. Next i would start to check all electrics multiconnectors for contacts and also possible failures of the looms. Check also that engine bay fusebox havent been taking water. That will generate nasty gremlings too.
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