Planning ahead; Give me the low down.

I assume OEM is the way to go, correct? There’s not an upgraded aftermarket version, is there?

Any advice to save to fuel rail, or should I just go ahead and assume to replace it?

All the coolant pipes have been done and water pump, though it may be leaking again. Anything else I should think to replace while I am in there?

Any tips or pearls of wisdom would be great.

I know I’m in for a hell of a ride.

 

Going with OEM seals is probably the best way to go. I am not aware of anything aftermarket, but then, I also have not looked.

As for the fuel rail, you should be able to save the fuel rail. Though, I would say if you are pulling it, to have a new set of o-rings (upper and lower) for the fuel injectors. While they can normally be re-used, with what it sounds like you are doing, why have to go back in for a leak. The old o-rings will more than likely not be perfectly round by this point in their life.

As for other things, i would say you are there, might as well replace the spark plugs unless you just had them done in the last 30K miles or less. You are going to be 0 screws away from replacing the spark plugs. Really, you just have to remove the plugs and put in new since you will have the coil packs off already.

After that, can't really think of much. Just be careful with the fuel line that runs side to side of the engine. If you can, put a cap on the fuel line to prevent anything from getting inside. You get even the smallest of objects in there, you WILL!!!!!! be looking at a clogged injector. TRUST ME!!!!!!!!!! Granted, on that subject, may be a good time to pop them out and do a good flush of them on a table mounted stand. A little more work, but you will have 90% of it done already.

 

I am getting ready to replace the valve covers on this same engine in a Range Rover Sport. From what I have read, the valve covers can crack with age, so I am changing both valve covers with OEM replacements, and not just the gaskets, so I don't risk doing all this labor for nothing. The OEM valve covers come with all the gaskets, bolts and a new EGR diaphragm. You definitely want a fresh diaphragm.

It's also a good time to block off the symposer if you have one of those silly things still installed. Mine is already blocked. I'll be doing the spark plugs even though it's a little early by the book. And I bought all new OEM seals for the injectors and the correct tool to pull the injectors and the correct tool to install the new seals.

The water pump is still original on this vehicle and working well with 155K miles, only because I use Evans waterless coolant, but I will change it with a new OEM one, along with the little pipe in the back, since I will be in there already. I am saving $5k on labor, so I don't mind spending money on OEM parts to do some extra refreshing.

 

I did this job earlier this year (along with other coolant system bulletproofing). As mentioned I would replace the valve covers themselves. Install them with the proper torque spec and sequence; if they are overtorqued on install, they will warp. Since the injectors need to come out to remove the valve cover, you will need to replace the injector Teflon seals as well. Take your time and install the new seals on the injectors properly- any errors here will result in a compression leak that will require another teardown. I was able to reuse the fuel rail with no issue.

 

Anti-knock sensors (Buy the Ford ones, not JLR).
PCV valve(s)
Oil cooler gasket.

wombat

 

I've done it for both of our AJ133 vehicles too.
Fuel rails should be fine, just handle with care & keep them safe & clean while they're off - I think I covered the openings with plastic caps or put them in ziplock bags while they were off.
Injector seals (whole kits) certainly need to be replaced when since they need to be removed & reinstalled, and make sure each injector goes back to the same cylinder it came from - and keep them in a ziplock bag too, handled with care since they're fragile. I clean off the tips with carb cleaner while they're out.
Before you remove injectors or spark plugs, blow any debris out of the hole they're in so it doesn't fall into the cylinder when you remove the injector & plug.
I also use a shop vac to vacuum the area before disassembling & before reassembling.
To bleed the fuel pressure out of the gas lines, I always let it sit a few hours since opening the door or powering it up. Then I wrap a shop rag around the joint I'm going to loosen that can absorb the gas that comes out & keeps it from spraying anywhere. Then the rag can be burned afterwards.
And it's always good to take pictures of things before you take them apart.
It helps to have them for reference when you have to figure out how to put them back together.