After getting knocked out of my chair over the price to replace the pads on my 2013 XJL (5.0) I decided I would do it myself as I have most other cars I’ve owned. With YouTube in hand you can fix most anything these days right?! Well the issue I ran into quickly was the highly varying info (and lack of info from dealerships) on what tools (size and type) I would need to remove the calipers. After watching every video out there and making half a dozen trips for different bits, etc I can’t report the following:
Front: a 9mm hex wrench to remove the 2 caliper guide bolts (under the dust caps). You don’t need a lot of torque to remove these so I recommend using the wrench rather than a bit. The problem I found with the bit was it wasn’t long enough to get through the dust boot into the bolt. Then you will need a 15mm socket to remove the caliper bracket bolts (2). These I must warn you do require quite a bit of muscle, particularly the upper one.

Rear: Now I ended up not being able to replace the rear and had my buddy that works on Jaguars do it due to the electric parking brake. Without a computer telling it to release the brake you can’t compress the calipers on the rear. Nonetheless you will need a 7mm hex wrench (yes I said 7 for the rear rather than 9) forbthe caliper guise bolts and the same 15mm socket for the

 

BDY, here is a trick that if you ever do the rear brakes again will make your life much easier since you won't need a computer to reset things. Pull apart the brakes and then open the bleeder valve on the caliper. This will allow you to twist the piston (one side turns counterclockwise, the other turns clockwise) to allow you to push it in. A little bit of fluid will come out, so, make sure to top up the reservoir. You will then have room to replace the pads. Reassemble everything with the pads loose. Before putting on the tire, manually actuate the e-brake lever a few times to take up the gap in the pads. Move the lever as far as you can. You will feel the lever not be able to move the full distance once the gap is gone. This is when you may want to bleed the rear brakes just to make sure that you have any air bubbles out of the caliper too and this also helps to get new fluid into the brake system for longer life of the components. You can then put on the tires at this point. The car will be happy and you don't have to either disconnect the battery or need a special computer. Did this to my car 15K miles ago and there has been no message about the e-brake system.

 

I paid $1.200 to replace the rear brakes on my 2012 XJ Supersport. Thanks for the post. I was in a bind and had to do it - never again.

 

Jesus man, thanks for the advice. My brake replacement light has been on for the past few months and I went to the dealership and they quoted me $1800 to change out the brakes. I was shocked to say the least and told them never mind.

Figure I would do it myself, as it doesn't seem to hard to do, and I believe I watched a youtube video of a guy showing how to replace them for the 2013 Jaguar XJ.

That said, a few days ago, my alternator died, and had to get towed home. Didn't eve bother going to the Jaguar dealership, just gonna try to wing that on my own. With me luck on the alternator and the brake pads and rotors! Something tells me I'm gonna need it, lol!

 

When ever brake pads are replace you should ALWAYS clamp the brake hose and open the bleed screw, this will ensure that no dirty fluid gets forced back into the ABS servo block.
This was the procedure I drummed into my techs when I ran my repair shop, regardless of what car we were working on.

 

I would imagine that that $1800 was for pads and rotors all around and new wear sensors front and rear and any necessary reprogramming. That is a couple of hundred more than I have spent at my dealer. Some dealers have special pricing for brake "jobs" and the like. I'd call and check all the dealers in your local area. Also, check the dealers web site as they may have service specials that will save you money. I realize that many owners are ones that have bought thier XJs previously owned and want to be a frugal as possible, but it's a very special automobile and as such are not inexpensive to own. IMHO

 

Thanks! This is awesome. Where is the ebrake lever located?

 

Viranjith, when you have the wheel off, look at the top of the caliper. You will see where a braided cable comes in and attaches to the caliper. That lever is what you want to push towards the front of the car as far as it will go a few times. One of those times, it will only make it part way before you won't be able to do it with your hand. From there, the computer will have enough give to accept the slight difference in the cable pull between what it was and what it is now.

 

Amazing thanks. Will try that. It should ayleast give me some wiggle room until I can get it reset if I need it.

 

With all due respect to Thermo and his very detailed explanation, there are 2 easier ways.

1. Use a scan tool and select EPB reset.

2. Complete the job and then repeatedly apply, then disengage the EPB (10-12 times should do it). You can test the EPB by parking on a slight incline, with the car in 'N'. apply the EPB, release the foot brake....if the car doesn't move you are golden.

wombat

Sorry, I must add, you absolutely must use the correct piston wind back tool to release the rear pads from the piston. The kits are super cheap ($20ish) and cover multiple cars. I would also strongly recommend flushing the brake fluid while you are at it. Again, with the right tools it is super easy. I use a power flush and use my iCarsoft v2.0 to open the ABS valves. You CAN do it without using the scantool, just takes forever and risks jamming the micro-ports in the module with debris.

 

Actually you CAN do the rear brakes without the computer, no problem. You just need the correct tool to wind the piston back in, They are cheap at Harbor Freight, or available as loaners from Auto Zone, etc. You need to reset the EPB when you are done, but that is easy, as well. Trial and error screw the piston out when installing the new pads so that you can just slide the caliper back on. When you are DONE with the brakes, disconnect the battery cable. When you reconnect it and turn the car on, it will go into EPB calibration mode, instructing you to press and hold the brake pedal, then pull the EPB lever. Pretty easy.

 

Does the sound system lock up when the battery is unplugged? I mean, do I need a code or anything to reset the sound system like some cars?

 

Having done it several times, you need to re-program the auto up/down window memory, and the sunroof memory. Both functions are in the owner's manual, and are easy as calibrating the EPB.

 

Viranjith, the lever is on the top of the caliper. If you see where the cable attaches to the caliper, that is the lever I am talking about. Can you do it with a computer. Sure. But, not everyone has the computer capable of doing that. So, there are options. PUsh the lever towards the front of the car and let it spring back. When you can't take it all the way forward (like you could the time before, the piston has been positioned.

 

I just release the EPB and then rotate the caliper piston back in after removing the caliper from the disk. I have SDD but never use it on brake jobs. You can borrow the brake piston tool from any parts store for free. I have the Harbor Freight kit which actually turned out to be a decent tool!

After installing the pads I do cycle the EPB several times to get it calibrated and turn off the dash light.
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Frankly, spending some money on something like the Foxwell NT520 or 530pro is the best investment you can make for your XJ if you're in to DIY. Great tool for reading fault codes, resetting service reminders, deactivating EPB etc. I've got the 520. For what they do I think the cost is a no brainer.

 

So I actually just did the rear brake pads myself. And Jaguar dealership reversed the pads on the rear left causing uneven wear. This side doesn't have the sensor and I was down to .025mm before metal would have hot metal.