I am trying to change pads on these brakes. I have read as much as I could find. It's my first time on these, and it is challenging. Please refer to the pic, am I correct in thinking bolts A through D need to be removed as well as the 2 pins? Because the bottom bolt on each caliper is difficult to remove without dropping that wishbone. I'll take all the tips and advice you have please.

 

Pull clips 5 and remove pins 4 and the pads come right out through the back of the caliper.

 

I pulled those pins out, those pads won't budge! That is why I had thought I needed to remove those bolts. Seems the fronts are the same as the rear, so I will try those and see what happens.

 

No !! Do not remove those bolts, they hold the two halves of the caliper together.

As posted here, the pads should pull straight out, but you will probably need to press the pistons back into the caliper to do so as there will likely be a lip on the disc . There used to be a special tool for this. Seized pistons are fairly commonplace on these calipers; I had this and replaced with service-exchange calipers

I can't remember where, but I have seen specific instructions not to remove these bolts. It was probably the workshop manual I had for my XJ6. I believe the bolts are required to be replaced if removed by a brake service/rebuild shop, plus the O-rings sealing the fluid passage between the two halves. Girling were not happy for amateurs to this.

 

Standard trap.

With those clips and pins out, get a LARGISH blade type screwdriver, and carefully lever the pads AWAY from the rotor. You have a wear lip on the rotor, and/or, the pads are just plain STUCK in the caliper.

CAUTION.

Do ONE pad at a time, or else you may have pistons popping out of calipers.

By that I mean, lever one pad back, remove old pad, lever the piston back some more, slide in the new pad, NOW do the other pad. Replace the pins and clips, and move on to the other caliper, and do the same.

As you lever the pistons back to accommodate the new pads, the fluid level in the reservoir WILL increase, so make sure you syringe some out first so as to not flood it, and strip the paint off the panels it squirts onto.

You could of course release the bleed nipple and allow the fluid to flow out that way, BUT, then you will need to bleed the brake system. Your car, your choice. This is the way I ALWAYS do it.

The fronts are similar, and have 4 pistons per caliper, so lever those pistons back using the old pad, one pad at a time of course, or you WILL have pistons popping, and you WILL NOT be happy.

 

Ok m8, I will do what you described. I didn't take those bolts out, I cracked just 2 of them, but I will re-tighten. I have done the brakes on both my 90's XJ140's and it was a breeze. These are a wee bit different is all.

 

If you have lip on your rotor, then they are due for replacement. Not something you want to hear, on this type of rear end. Please check condition of caliper piston boots, if those have popped off the caliper body, or pads are worn unevenly, then you are in for new rotors and such.

 

Took me 1 hour to get one sides pads off. Rust. I'll get the other side later. The rotors look ok. Boots are on the caliper piston. The car has been sitting outside for quite sometime. Its is very clean underneath.

 

Working on the Jaguar inboard brakes is a real PIA, so persevere !

I believe early cars with the IRS had a panel in the trunk for access to the calipers. The handbrake caliper is even worse to maintain !! If this needs attention, it's better to take the caliper off, or even drop the whole subframe so you can work in comfort.

 

Drop it like this?

 

That looks great!

 

I'll bet they do, if they weren't sitting in the calipers for 19 years!

 

I was spoilt the guy I bought my car from did the brakes, new pistons, rotors and pads so it was easy to remove the pads. They must have done it with the rear in the car because I had to cut the radius arm bushes off.

How are going with getting them out?

 

Yes ! Just look at that pic of a rear suspension cage complete. Better than sculpture - its a work of art !!

 

Yes, them Brits sure knew what they were doing... I am not sure if I am going to put it back in, customers come in and stare at it so much, it would be a shame to stick it under my rusty bucket.

 

Thanks for asking. Job is finished. Total hours to remove them was about 3. Installing the new pads, both sides, probably 10 minutes.

If they weren't so rusted in there, including the pins, the actual job to change those pads shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.

 

Yes, it seems so easy, but nothing really is with our cars. Good job!

 

Frasier ,
Thanks for the insight into the panel in the trunk. I have a series 2 XJ-6 frozen rear caliper piston. Need to replace both calipers as well as the rotors. Do you think the rotors can be replaced without pulling the whole IRS down. I am prepare to do that if necessary but would rather not. Also have an 89 XJ-S v12 so the 6 will be practice if necessary.
Thank you for any assistance.
jack walls

 

Rotors will be difficult to do in the car. It will be much quicker to drop the rear and do them out of the car.

If the radius arm bushes and exhaust come off easy dropping the rear end is not difficult. I can have mine out of the car by myself in about 1/2 hour.

 

FYI
Rear caliper halves can be taken apart. Fluid passage is an external pipe. It makes rebuilding them very easy.