I replaced front rotors and breaks. But the car still shakes when I hit 55-60 mph Would I need to replace the rear rotors and breaks? Would that fix the shaking ? Mechanic told me that the rotors were still good in the rear.

any suggestions??

 

When does it do it? Slowing down? Rear rotors were very warped on mine. After replacing the fronts I still had shakes when braking. I lifted the rear and drove the car in the air RWD on mine and applying the brakes on the air replicated the issue. Needless to say rears will be done.

 

when I Accelerateit happens. But after 60mph it’s fine.

 

Could be a tire balance issue. Check to see if the tire still has the weights still on it?

 

Chris32111, I had a wobble in my car that I just recently fixed for the most part (what is left is most likely from the tires themselves). As I would drive, the steering wheel would wobble side to side. If you put your hand on the wheel, it would stop. If you lightly put on the brakes, the wobble would continue, but if you applied them harder, the wobble would actually stop. IT turned out that my right front shock was bad. I had only recently started getting Dynamic Suspension fault codes which is what lead me to replace the shock. You can most likely look at the inside edge of your front tires and determine which side is your offender as you will most likely see a little bit of cupping on the bad side and not much on the other side.

Like others say, it could be a tire balance issue. In my case, the wobble never really got worse or better. It would seem to come and go (more there than not).

 

OP's problem sounds almost certainly a wheel balance issue. If all is well up to 55 and then is OK again above 60.
The only other thing I'd check is that the wheels are torqued up correctly! (125 N-m). I once had a new set of tyres fitted and afterwards I found the nuts on one of the wheels were loose!!!

 

How many miles are on your car? How many miles on the current tires? I agree about tire balance.

 

car has 125k miles, i think the shocks might be bad. i did balancing and alignment. your feel every bump when i drive there. anyone know what where i can get new shocks? what bout CV joints?

 

Chris, if you are starting to feel every bump and you don't have any error messages, then odds are, one of your shocks is bad. This is what I was experiencing with my car except that I would also get an occasional error message. You might get lucky and be able to get the codes read by the dealership and it may give you a clue as to which corner has the issue. The error code will not be read by most code readers. You need a higher end reader to get to this code.

 

I bought my new Bilstein Shocks on https://www.rockauto.com/ and my XJ has never ridden of driven better. I had @100k on the old ones. What prompted me as my front right shock went bad and the XJ rode like a rock. In truth the front shocks are Jaguar, but, I believe, Jaguar sources their shocks from Bilstein, Right now they have the fronts, but only Arnott for the rears, but they may be in a reorder mode. Also, my search if for 2013.

 

BILSTEIN26240565 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} B4 OE Replacement (DampTronic)


is this the right part?

 

yes it is here is a link to Bilsein's site https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/produ...37872264076458 BTW look around for the rears as Rock auto has them when they are in stock for about $625.00 each and many vendors are quoting over 1k. I don't know this site but here is a good price https://www.lmperformance.com/cart.a...part_id=867079

 

I've got those Bilstein front shocks ready and waiting to be installed this weekend, along with new upper shock mounts and upper control arms. My ride quality and handling has degraded significantly over the past few months in addition to having a shake in the steering wheel between 50-70mph. I'm hoping this will take care of it

 

let me know how it turns out. I was gonna buy the shocks but not that’s your saying your replacing the mounts and upper control arms I might do the same thing since the car is a 2011

 

Mounts and isolators at a bear minimum IMHO

 

Chris;

I also recommend looking at the rubber bushings where your wishbones mount, both upper and lower arms. It might also be worthwhile to check the ball joints. The number of miles you have on your car are likely to be accompanied some wear.

 

ball joints is a good idea. Anyone know
roughly what ball joints go for ?

 

The upper ball joint is integrated into the control arm itself and, so far as I know, is not serviceable. The lower ball joint on the wheel spindle is replaceable but I don't know where to source them. I have pictures of some numbers on the rubber boot but a google search doesn't reveal anything. I know for sure the X350 ball joint is different.

Edit: these are the numbers on the boot. Maybe someone else has better google skills.
252215 2-6
030 060 161 012-01
>CR< D

 

I have a 2010 XJ s/c and I also used to feel every bump. One of my earliest posts was titled bumpy ride. There are lots of potential reasons for poor ride quality.FYI, I never changed my shocks and yet the bumpy ride is now gone. I’m sure the ride would be even better if I changed the shocks, but I’m not itching to spend more money until it’s more obvious.

First I had to correct some bent rims. Then the lower control arm bushings were changed because everyone says you should. Then the sway bar bushings (clunk sound) and then finally the upper control arms. In my opinion the biggest difference I noticed in ride quality was when I fixed the rims and swapped the upper control arms. Of course alignments were also being done frequently.

It seemed like the car would drive better temporarily after each fix. But it would revert after a few days. Seems like lifting the car temporarily improves things. So make sure to give it a few days before claiming victory.

My experience makes me think that most of the suspension will give out at some point and you’ll need to change most bushings in a rather short period of time. So if you are in there already, it might make sense to be aggressive with your parts list.

All the best.

 

Looks like the air shocks are back in stock at Rockauto (they definitely weren't listed yesterday) for a really good price (relatively speaking) of $605 each. Cheaper than the Arnotts and you keep the active damping.

Edit: Just placed my order.